- Location
- Ocala, FL
post 16 has pics
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Crank pulled, Damage exposed, pics uploaded
- Thread starter Shadow7874
- Start date
Liquid Graffix
liquidgraffix
- Location
- In the shop or on the water
Use an impact wrench and that will take the FW bolt right out. The hard part is getting the coupler off now that the cylinder is off. Normally you would shove a rag into the top of the head so that the piston cant come all the way up and stops the crank from turning over, then you can break the coupler loose. Now you are going to have to find a way to keep the crank from spinning as you try to loosen the coupler.
Cold Fusion makes a handy little piece that bolts to the front of the cases and keeps the flywheel from spinning.
Cold Fusion makes a handy little piece that bolts to the front of the cases and keeps the flywheel from spinning.
Attachments
- Location
- Ocala, FL
I got the coupler off. The rod bearing is seized so I just used it to stop any spinning. The fw bolt is off but it is still in place. Do I just pull on it or is it threaded on too?
chriselmore_1
high on resin
- Location
- san jose ca
use a flywheel puller there are no threads on the fly. it has to be pressed off
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A harmonic balancer puller (aka flywheel puller) can be rented from your local autozone for about a $15 deposit which you get back when you take it back.
The rod bearing may be helping you right now but when you rebuild it, you'll need to do the "rope trick". It's real simple and doesn't hurt the engine if done right. Thread a clean rope down the spark plug hole in the head. Feed a foot or two of rope inside the cylinder when the piston is near the top of it's stroke, turn the crank until the rope is squished between the piston and the head and can't go up anymore. Crank on the flywheel or coupler all you want.
The rod bearing may be helping you right now but when you rebuild it, you'll need to do the "rope trick". It's real simple and doesn't hurt the engine if done right. Thread a clean rope down the spark plug hole in the head. Feed a foot or two of rope inside the cylinder when the piston is near the top of it's stroke, turn the crank until the rope is squished between the piston and the head and can't go up anymore. Crank on the flywheel or coupler all you want.
- Location
- Ocala, FL
is there a certain size i need to get? i have one that is designed for steering wheels that i tried to use but the holes dont line up for the bolts just right.
chriselmore_1
high on resin
- Location
- san jose ca
anyone should work due to the slotted holes
- Location
- Ocala, FL
Also while ive got a thread started i have another question. I need 1 new piston a new dome (are oem ones removable?) and a new crank at least. So im thinking ov going with a wiseco 83 or 84 mm piston kit and having my cylinders bored instead of honed then adding some different domes. The wiseco kit is in the $370 range for the 3-4mm over bore and the crank will probably cost me $125 assuming i get the deal im hoping for. How much would domes and the boring cost me? Would i need a new head to go with the overbore?
And lastly would just the overbore be worth all the extra money or would i not see much of a power increase? It would put my in the 740cc range but if there is no real power difference i would probably be better off with the single piston, the crank, dome and maybe a hone.
And lastly would just the overbore be worth all the extra money or would i not see much of a power increase? It would put my in the 740cc range but if there is no real power difference i would probably be better off with the single piston, the crank, dome and maybe a hone.
I asked the same questions about overboring when I was rebuilding my motor last year. The cc's themselves won't do you much good. Now if you were to port them based on the new bore, you will probably get a greater advantage. However, you're also sacrificing that cylinder and limiting it to additional bores in the future should something else happen. Good luck convincing a machine shop to go that far as well. They all want to go one size only. Some shops will charge extra for overboring as well. I called a bunch of shops locally and they all had honing machines to bore cylinders...stay away from those guys. My local shops also wanted around $90 a hole to bore the cylinder. I mailed it to Bradenton Motorsports in FL and was happy with his service. He's on pwctoday I think and he charged like $80-$90 to do both holes plus shipping.
OEM heads are cheap as dirt and don't have removable domes. I think wiseco pistons are freaking awesome! However, they are quite expensive and offer little if any performance improvements in even a limited motor setup. If you had a stroker or needed race gas, wiseco's will probably last longer though. I'd say save your money on the pistons and get Pro-X or something like that instead and use the extra money towards a better head.
My additional recommendations... Since you're getting another crank, another head, and a new piston, it would be smart to go ahead and get 2 new pistons even if all you do is hone it. If you need help, I'm probably only an hour south of you so you're welcome to come down.
OEM heads are cheap as dirt and don't have removable domes. I think wiseco pistons are freaking awesome! However, they are quite expensive and offer little if any performance improvements in even a limited motor setup. If you had a stroker or needed race gas, wiseco's will probably last longer though. I'd say save your money on the pistons and get Pro-X or something like that instead and use the extra money towards a better head.
My additional recommendations... Since you're getting another crank, another head, and a new piston, it would be smart to go ahead and get 2 new pistons even if all you do is hone it. If you need help, I'm probably only an hour south of you so you're welcome to come down.
Don't run the puller bolts too far into your flywheel or you will damage the coils on your stator!!!
- Location
- Ocala, FL
Just picked up a harmonic balaqncer and a bolt extractor. Quite a deal on the balancer. They sell one for $15.99 and its just a very basic one with a few bolts all in the plastic wrapping or the have one for $15 that they "rent out" but if i dont return it i keep it for the $15 and it has a 1 year warrany, is brand new, and comes in a nice case. I may just keep it for the future.
Once i split the cases ill post pics of everything so i can get some opinions as to the extent of the damage.
Once i split the cases ill post pics of everything so i can get some opinions as to the extent of the damage.
I already have read this but thanks for watching out for me! I attempted to make my own pulled since the cylinder bolts are the same as the ones n the flywheel but i used wood and it just wasnt cutting it without some nice washers to spread out the pressure. Much easier to but a real one.
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- Location
- Marshall, AR
Some flywheels are easier than others to pop off. If you dont have a impact and cant get it to come off get it as tight as you can and strike the center of the puller with a hammer. The last one I pulled I had to do this and it worked great. If your flywheel has never been pulled it can be stubborn
Just a heads-up for others. I bought this one a few years ago:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824
I then replaced the bolts used for our flywheels with grade 8 bolts and grade 8 washers and it has done me well on iterally removing 20+ Yamaha flywheels. The yokes and threaded driver shafts in these kits are just as good as those of Snap On (well, for the torques that we apply). The bolts and washers are the weak link.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824
I then replaced the bolts used for our flywheels with grade 8 bolts and grade 8 washers and it has done me well on iterally removing 20+ Yamaha flywheels. The yokes and threaded driver shafts in these kits are just as good as those of Snap On (well, for the torques that we apply). The bolts and washers are the weak link.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
It help to heat the hub of the flywheel with a propane torch also,it makes the hub expand just a bit and makes removal easier,just don't overdo it and cook the stator.Heat does wonders for coupler removal as well.
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- Location
- Ocala, FL
Flywheel is off, I struggle with it for a while and then when i went to swap positions to try and get some more torque on it, it just fell off.
The bolts for the bedplates were extremly hard to remove. Do they loctite them? Even once a broke them free the still took alot of torque to spin.
The crank also stumped me for a few minutes. Once the cases were apart the crank was so tight i couldnt figure out if there was something i was missing till i finally pushed it out by the flywheel hub.
Pics uploading now with more questions im sure.
The bolts for the bedplates were extremly hard to remove. Do they loctite them? Even once a broke them free the still took alot of torque to spin.
The crank also stumped me for a few minutes. Once the cases were apart the crank was so tight i couldnt figure out if there was something i was missing till i finally pushed it out by the flywheel hub.
Pics uploading now with more questions im sure.
- Location
- Ocala, FL
Heres pics. The bearings for the crank seem to make a good bit of noise. Is that normal? Also the one rod that isnt stuck has a little side to side play. Is that bad?
Can the one bearing on the crank be replace or does the whole thing need replacing?
What should i do about the bottom of the case? Can i just sand it a little or would that affect anything?
Replace both pistons and domes?
To me it looks like i need crank/domes/pistons/hone/gaskets. Is there anything im missing? And i may do a slight overbore and porting if i can find out more about pricing.
And what about that stupid starter bolt? I bought a tool to remove the bolt then the removal peice broke off too...
Can the one bearing on the crank be replace or does the whole thing need replacing?
What should i do about the bottom of the case? Can i just sand it a little or would that affect anything?
Replace both pistons and domes?
To me it looks like i need crank/domes/pistons/hone/gaskets. Is there anything im missing? And i may do a slight overbore and porting if i can find out more about pricing.
And what about that stupid starter bolt? I bought a tool to remove the bolt then the removal peice broke off too...
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skithis
X
- Location
- Belleville/ Coldwater, MI
crank, piston kits, case will be fine, send your cylinder out for porting, hone it out, reinstall and :beerchug:
Oh, and a gasket set too.
Oh, and a gasket set too.
- Location
- Ocala, FL
They arent gone, they simply relocated :biggrin:
Who would you guys recommend for a bore/hone and porting? If there isnt a huge price difference between a bore and hone i may just go with the 83mm pistons.
Also when people say they have x amount of bores left, are they putting in bigger pistons for each rebore? If so, why not keep some nice 84mm pistons and just buy new cylinders (are they just sleeves?) each time you need to rebore them out?
A decent hone can be done by going back to autozone and renting a honing tool. It's not the best in the industry but it gets the job done. There is a HUGE price difference between hone and bore especially if you do the hone yourself. I called probably 5-10 shops and the cheapest came out to be about $140 total to rebore both holes.
A rebore on these engines is typically 0.50mm larger than the last size which will require new rings and new pistons. A rebore also requires you to have a piston in hand at the time of boring.
The cylinder is commonly referred to as both of the sleeves and what they mount inside. The reason most people rebore instead of just redoing the sleeves is because of both price and time. You can rebore both holes for less than a single sleeve which typically makes resleeving a cylinder an incredibly pricey thing to do. Plus, once you get a new sleeve, they don't come perfect and ready to drop in. You typically have to port match them to your current cylinder.
A rebore on these engines is typically 0.50mm larger than the last size which will require new rings and new pistons. A rebore also requires you to have a piston in hand at the time of boring.
The cylinder is commonly referred to as both of the sleeves and what they mount inside. The reason most people rebore instead of just redoing the sleeves is because of both price and time. You can rebore both holes for less than a single sleeve which typically makes resleeving a cylinder an incredibly pricey thing to do. Plus, once you get a new sleeve, they don't come perfect and ready to drop in. You typically have to port match them to your current cylinder.