Super Jet cooling temp

[Tyler Zane]

whats the general goal for engine temp? im looking at buying some temp strips to put on my head so i can keep an eye on it and change restrictors on my pissers. one place i ride the water is 60ish and the other is really warm....

 

[SUPERTUNE]

It's best to ask these important questions to your engine builder.

 

[Tyler Zane]

rodger that, i thought it might be a general rule of thumb but i understand its more specific than that now.

 

[Roo]

It's best to ask these important questions to your engine builder.

When I fire up my XS1000 in the spring and water temps are still cold - what temp(s) should I shoot for after restricting?

Best way of measuring?

 

[SuperJETT]

Ask your builder, but my old builder always shot for 120F +/- which is cool enough you can stick your hand in it for a second or two, but hot enough you can't hold it there.

However, that's engine water temp, not exhaust water temp, so you have to make sure you know which water temp you're checking. I have separate cooling circuits for the pipe and engine so it's easy to tell.

 

[Tyler Zane]

i would imagine the temp on top of the head would be a good bit hotter. is that an unusual way of testing temps?

i emailed jetworks to get my exact answer but this is still a interesting topic. when i searched i didnt find much on it.

 

[Matt_E]

I use cooling water restrictors with inter-changeable brass inserts. For water temps below 45, I restrict to 2mm, 45-55 it's 3mm, and above 55 I use 4mm.
Consult with the engine builder to see what you should run.

 

[Tyler Zane]

I use cooling water restrictors with inter-changeable brass inserts. For water temps below 45, I restrict to 2mm, 45-55 it's 3mm, and above 55 I use 4mm.
Consult with the engine builder to see what you should run.

ya i have the same restrictors, if thats the case i may not ever have to change them except for when im up north.

 

[Matt_E]

I use all three sizes through the year. :biggrin:

 

[Tyler Zane]

there is a reason i live in florida lol

 

[2XLR8]

When you use the temps strips just remember that the temp normally gets hotter after shut down. In other words if it runs 120 degrees when you are on the pipe and you shut it off it will climb higher just sitting there and when you check the strip after taking the hood off you will tempted to think it runs at the indicated temp. I ran an oil temp gauge for motorcyles. It had built in battery and only used a very thin dual wire harness. it was nice knowing exactly what it did all the time. Once it really climbed up after a wide open run plug chop and it hit 195. It quickly dropped after I fired it up again.

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

I used the ones from Mcmaster with the 86-140 range (http://www.mcmaster.com/#59535k13/=9opbv0) on my jetworks motor. I stuck them everywhere, two on the head, one on the head pipe, and I even put one on my waterbox. That temp range works but if I could pick my own it would go a little higher. It's nice to be able to look in there and see were everything is at vs I think it's running hot? Certainly worth $10 imo.

 

[Roo]

I used the ones from Mcmaster with the 86-140 range (http://www.mcmaster.com/#59535k13/=9opbv0) on my jetworks motor. I stuck them everywhere, two on the head, one on the head pipe, and I even put one on my waterbox. That temp range works but if I could pick my own it would go a little higher. It's nice to be able to look in there and see were everything is at vs I think it's running hot? Certainly worth $10 imo.

Thanks Dustin.

Think I'll be buying a 10 pack to keep an eye on things.

 

[Joe Dart]

On the topic of temp stickers, they saved my motor from total disaster. I put one by each plug hole and one on the thicker part of the cylinder. I noticed when dry reving the engine in my garage that the rear cylinder would heat up much faster. Upon removing the engine I found several problems including crank seals and main bearing failure in the rear. Had I not had the stickers then I would have never known that I had a problem.
From the info that I have gathered through numerous conversions with people that would know 110* - 120* is ideal on big motors and 701’s can go hotter but the hotter you go more tinkering is required. Obviously the most performance can be achieved on the edge of disaster so life is a compromise.
Hotter engine temps mean leaner so richen the mix when temps are elevated or increase water flow.
I also wish that someone had told me about running a water manifold a long time ago. Running dual cooling into the water manifold then having a separate line going to each item. This allows you to make changes to the waterbox without changing the pipe. While flowing plenty of water through the exhaust manifold and cylinder.
I’m not a professional by any means but it took a long time to gather this info. I hope it will help someone who’s just installing their first b-pipe, dual cooling or ada head.