Chinpad disaster

Well, after I've already hacked up the tray turf job. I seemed to have done the same if not worse to the chinpad. Are you guys using the same stuff, the DAP Weldwood contact cement? I did exactly as the can says to the tee, and still it wont stick. Not to mention when I use the heat gun, it would rather burn the turf, (and me) than mold it. I am so frustrated......:Thinkingof_:
 
I feel your pain. I've had luck shaping the turf before I glue it. I heat it and stretch it around something to shape it. Then once the glue is applied (and dry) you can do some pulling as you put it on but you only have one shot at it because it's stuck as soon as it touches! You'll only get better. Good luck.
 

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
I have never had much problem with contact cement not sticking unless I did not wait long enough to let it dry. My rule of thumb is two coats on the turf side and one coat on the hull, wait for 10 or 15 minute or until completely dry and join the two pieces. You should get an instant bond. I find that some super stretched areas near edges might require a little superglue in some spots if they lift up. Weldwood is the bes IMO.
 
that's just it... I DO let it dry on both sides (like the can/directions say) and yet it touches and let's go like it were only tacky, not adhesive. Is there a small window of time to put the pieces together? I'll admit, I do engines, not turf. So now that i've given up for the night is there a possibility of taking off the old glue and putting on new stuff tomorrow?
 

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
acetone will loosen it up and you can wipe, scrape it off. Make sure the surfaces are clean before you start again. Wipe them down with an acetone soaked cotton rag to remove all wax, oils, or left over mold release agents on the fiberglass. Also you need to scratch up the fiberglass surface with some sand paper before you wipe it down. This will help the glue adhere better than it would to a slick surface.
 
acetone will loosen it up and you can wipe, scrape it off. Make sure the surfaces are clean before you start again. Wipe them down with an acetone soaked cotton rag to remove all wax, oils, or left over mold release agents on the fiberglass. Also you need to scratch up the fiberglass surface with some sand paper before you wipe it down. This will help the glue adhere better than it would to a slick surface.

thanks man, your input is more than appreciated. I will start with a clean slate tomorrow. I def done my share of motors but this turf business is no effin joke.:dunce:
 

Motorheads5

Livin the generation gap
Location
ketchikan alaska
(Your building is only as good as your foundation.)LMAO Sorry No I am not trying to test your patience that is a painter's term and it proves to be a issue with turf also prep the surface really good and wipe it down don't worry about the turf unless you have stored it in a real dusty dirty enviroment. Other than that you already have the knowledge.good luck
 
i like to rough up the plastic chinpad with some sand paper and then clean it well before applying the contact cement.

i have never had any issues with contact cement not sticking. just coat both the surfaces. (i coat the turf twice since it is absorbant) wait like 15 minutes and you should be good to go. make sure you buy the red can of Dap contact cement.
 

Crab

thanks darin...noswad!
Location
Seattle
You can usually re activate the glue with another coat. One reason I like the gel in the red can, its thicker and takes fewer coats. 15 minutes is usually about right.
 
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Like it was metioned alreayd...coat the turf twice and let it dry and you should be good to go...I've had similar issues with it not sticking and than realized the turf was porous and adsorbing the cement and just needed a second coat. After that it wouldbond instantly, made a big difference in the install especially around corners, footholds, etc
 
In the past I've had to put about 3 coats of contact cement on the turf because it gets absorbed into the turf so much.

Also, when I turfed my SJ last spring, I found that you can overheat the turf to the point where the contact cement doesn't stick any more either. Heat it up just enough to make it more pliable. You shouldn't need to heat it to the point where it's too hot to touch with your bare hands.
 
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