Cheap Noticeable Mods

[All stock 701]

I am currently riding an all stock '11 Superjet. I plan to do all handling mods in the winter. Bars, plate, grate, turf,etc. are there any engine mods that I can do without a lot of wrenching or $ that make a noticeable difference without going far from stock?

 

[Vortex]

Simple answer, no, but a Pipe, flame arrestors, and milled head or aftermarket billet head for 93 octane +re-jetting will be noticeable.

 

[DontYellAtMe1]

A pipe and impeller will net you the biggest gains. Installing a new impeller is fairly straightforward and simple, but installing an aftermarket exhaust requires some wrenching and tuning. There are plenty of old threads here on the site that cover this topic and you can always ask if you need help.

 

[Vortex]

Yeah a hooker 9/15 is a great upgrade I am really happy with the performance.

 

[Dalton]

How much of an upgrade is a 9/15 hooker over a 08+ prop? I thought they are very similar.

 

[Vortex]

I have only ridden an 08+ with a dasa 850 so its hard to say, but I think the hooker would give you more height off wakes and more nose down tracking, depending on rider weight.

 

[boostedegos]

Hooker 9/15 is very similar to the stock '08+ impeller. Waste of money IMO. Lightened flywheel from #zero and a pipe make a huge difference. Added those to my '12 and love it

 

[fastgtfairlane]

depends on what you consider "cheap"

 

[High Speed Industries]

Advance the timing=free
Remove choke and install primer=$100 or less
Remove adjuster caps and add T handle adjusters on carbs $100 or less
Have stock flywheel lightened=$75-150
Replace stock reeds with 760 reeds=$50-75 (depends on what you can find on ebay)

Those are the cheapest things I can think of off the top of my head. This isn't a cheap sport. If you want to go fast it takes some money.

Depending on your riding style I would also suggest modifying the bracket on your steering nozzle. Out of the factory they come pointed up quite a bit. You can do a little grinding on the bracket so the nozzle sits level. This will make your ski handle much better at high speeds and in corners.

 

[Vortex]

You could also invest in a group k sleeper kit, combining the choke removal/carb boring, porting, and cyl head work.

 

[Quinc]

Buy a pipe. Any pipe will be better then stock, you should be able to find something decent under 300$. helps all around

You can buy a high comp head like an R&D or Protec etc to bump compression to 175/180 for around 100$ too. helps bottom end

Lose 20lbs. =)

 

[tor*p*do]

the only cheap mod is the ghetto quick turn nozzle mod; free
other than that, get out your checkbook

 

[mthomps]

You don't need to worry about the prop. Yamaha got it right with the 08+. I'd look in to the black protec pipe. Not sure about quick steering the 08...I believe I've read quick steering it will make it like a 90-07 stock steering, which is still better than 08+ stock.

 

[Freakrider]

Bored nozzle cheap and noticeable more so than lightened flywheel imo.

 

[mthomps]

You could also invest in a group k sleeper kit, combining the choke removal/carb boring, porting, and cyl head work.

I've looked in to this extensively. I've heard from multiple builders you can beast mode a 650 in to a great example of a limited 701 and it will be reliable as f***...l

The best powered ski I've ever rode was a 900 jetworks. My goal is to buy that engine someday and put it in a square and then go really really fast.

The best limited 701 I've rode is a stock cylinder with a b-pipe, 13-16 -3mm cutback solas prop with stock nozzle. You gain like 5 mph in a second with that set up. But its linear...so the control is insane!!!

That said I've read multiple times over and over on forums that group k makes a fast ass reliable engine. Just give in to what the guy says to make it work right, even if you spend more money lol.

Chime in on your stock engine mods and how they worked.

 

[Vortex]

I've got a bpipe mod chamber, k%n flame arrestors, and 75/135/95g carb rejet, and while the 75 pilot is too much without added compression, my ski is pretty fast with the carbs adjusted. I've ridden gp class skis, so I have an idea of what kind of power is out there.

BTW, the hooker prop is a swirl impellar, the 08+ is still shaped like the old aluminum one, based on the one I looked at today. Its seems like they just made it heavier to reduce cavitation.

 

[Vumad]

Pipe is the most expensive bolt on part but will make the most difference. Worth putting a head on it while you are tuning for the pipe. About $1000.

Things like boring your nozzle don't make the ski more powerful. They move the power. Moving the power is cheaper than making more. If you want a freeride, flatwater, or surf ski, then boring the nozzle and changing the tailcone are cheap ways to move the power lower.

If you want a recreational ski, like I do, then moving the power may not be your preference. I want bottom, but don't want to give up the top to do it. That costs more.

Typical mods are pipe, head, prop (apparently 08 doesn't need one), ignition / timing, lightened flywheel, reeds, intake grate, air filters. Pipe will make the most difference. I have all those mods, except I prefer the stock airbox.

No reason to wait until winter for handle bars or other simple bolt on mods. If you have stock 08+ steering, then getting more steering throw would be a priority for any kind of riding.