Carburetor (specs) Database: SuperJet and Blaster 1

1. Prok flame arresters
2. Dual OEM 44
3. VF2 reeds
4. Ada intake spacer
5. Finger ported 62t cases
6. Ported Jetmaniac 61x cylinder
7. Blowsion big bore sleeves @789cc
8. Wossner pistons
9. Ada head, 35cc domes
10. Big bore Factory B, limited chamber,
11. ATP water box
12. PFM lightened flywheel
13. 3mm cutback 8/13 skat impeller

112.5 pilots
125 mains
95g springs
2.0 N/S
3500' elevation

Hits hard and revs quick. Passed a ~5 second WOT. Was about all I wanted on this Reaper hull. Gets a little wobbly after that.

I forget what the needles are at but I started both at one turn out didn't take much adjustment after that.
 
Location
Ontario
Picked up a stock 62T with dual 38s and aftermarket air FA.
Previous owner had the carbs all over the place with different size jets.
I'm at about 700' above sea level.

I have a few sizes of jets on me and was just wondering what the good baseline would be.
These are the sizes I have (and quantity on hand):

pilots: 67.5 (2) & 72.5 (2)
main: 120 (1), 130 (1) , 135 (2)

Would anyone recommend I reuse some of these or purchase some other sizes?

Would 135/72.5 get me close?

PS- The motor is a new sbt and still on it's break-in tank running rich

I'm not too bad with tuning, but this is my first superjet so a starting point would be awesome!
 
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The stock jetting for 38s on a 62t is 70 pilots, 130 mains, 1.5 n/s, 115g spring. I believe the popoff is around 55psi. Since you have the open style flame arrestors you'll need to lower the popoff. I believe just replacing the spring with a 95g (reverse wound) would get you close. If you have the 72.5, just run that.

If you put an aftermarket pipe on it, you'll increase to at least 75p 135 mains. Popoff will stay whatever you have it set to.
 
Hi
I would definitely appreciate some input on my ski as I've been having weird symptoms. I had an issue with my ski last year bogging during left turns for setup wakes and tailstands, in addition to a unpredictable power band around 1/3 throttle that made simple cruising very difficult for my wife when she rode.

From what I've read it's because my popoff is too low.

I have a 61x/61x 701 with a rrp carbon laydown pipe (I know it's too much pipe for that motor but it's what I got for the foreseeable future) currently running
Brand = mikuni
Model = sbn
Size = 44
Quantity = single
Main Jet = 150
Pilot Jet = 120
Needle/Seat = 2.0
Spring = 65 (17psi pop off)
Pilot screw = 1
Main Screw = 2.5

Gas Octane = 94
Altitude = 1885 ft
Main type of riding = boat chasing and whatever freestyle I can manage with it.
Would it pass the 10 second WOT test = it did so far as I can tell.
Powerband = unpredictable, powerful and happens randomly around 1/3 throttle give or take.
Motor type/setup =61x/61x. Girdled head but only running 155psi. Rrp carbon laydown pipe. Stock 61x airbox with 3 screens. Solas 144 mag pump with 12/17 impeller.

If I missed anything please let me know. Been reading all I can really trying to figure out this bogging and random powerband
 
Location
dfw
All good pipes will make the power either on or off. If you raise the popoff you will also need to use a larger pilot to have the same 1/4 throttle mixture. Your ski may be a little over propped with your high rpm pipe.
 
Hi
I would definitely appreciate some input on my ski as I've been having weird symptoms. I had an issue with my ski last year bogging during left turns for setup wakes and tailstands, in addition to a unpredictable power band around 1/3 throttle that made simple cruising very difficult for my wife when she rode.

From what I've read it's because my popoff is too low.

I have a 61x/61x 701 with a rrp carbon laydown pipe (I know it's too much pipe for that motor but it's what I got for the foreseeable future) currently running
Brand = mikuni
Model = sbn
Size = 44
Quantity = single
Main Jet = 150
Pilot Jet = 120
Needle/Seat = 2.0
Spring = 65 (17psi pop off)
Pilot screw = 1
Main Screw = 2.5

Gas Octane = 94
Altitude = 1885 ft
Main type of riding = boat chasing and whatever freestyle I can manage with it.
Would it pass the 10 second WOT test = it did so far as I can tell.
Powerband = unpredictable, powerful and happens randomly around 1/3 throttle give or take.
Motor type/setup =61x/61x. Girdled head but only running 155psi. Rrp carbon laydown pipe. Stock 61x airbox with 3 screens. Solas 144 mag pump with 12/17 impeller.

If I missed anything please let me know. Been reading all I can really trying to figure out this bogging and random powerband
What ski is this in? The pipe is fine with that engine, definitely not your problem. The issue I see is the popoff with the flame arrestor. Remove 2 screens and raise your popoff to 25 psi with a 95g spring. Also, if you're over 2 turns on your high or low speed screws, it's time to go up in jetting. Id try a 155 main..
 
hey guys need some carb tuning help for my sj

61x/62t 701 bored over once, stock porting, b pipe, msd enhancer

brand new straight from mikuni dual 38s

low speed:70 at 1 1/8

high speed: 135 1 1/4

n/s 1.5 40psi

springs: 95g

ada head 35cc 190 psi 91 octane

impeller: solas mag pump with 12/18 big hub

elevation: ocean riding at sea level

need power low to mid hit for freeride
 
That impeller is probably too much for your engine depending on your reduction nozzle diameter and cone. An over pitched impeller can cause the engine to be gutless especially off the bottom.

Are your 38s like the stock 38s that come from yamaha or are they aftermarket mikunis with dual fuel pumps, no choke and t handle screws? If so those have an extra bleed hole by the butterfly opening and flow more fuel in the low speed circuit. Your jetting looks pretty close.

Also the chamber you are running will affect where your power comes on to a degree. The limited chamber will have better bottom end.
 
That impeller is probably too much for your engine depending on your reduction nozzle diameter and cone. An over pitched impeller can cause the engine to be gutless especially off the bottom.

Are your 38s like the stock 38s that come from yamaha or are they aftermarket mikunis with dual fuel pumps, no choke and t handle screws? If so those have an extra bleed hole by the butterfly opening and flow more fuel in the low speed circuit. Your jetting looks pretty close.

Also the chamber you are running will affect where your power comes on to a degree. The limited chamber will have better bottom end.
theyre new aftermarket from mikuni with no choke and it came with t handles and im running a limited chamber
 
That impeller is probably too much for your engine depending on your reduction nozzle diameter and cone. An over pitched impeller can cause the engine to be gutless especially off the bottom.

Are your 38s like the stock 38s that come from yamaha or are they aftermarket mikunis with dual fuel pumps, no choke and t handle screws? If so those have an extra bleed hole by the butterfly opening and flow more fuel in the low speed circuit. Your jetting looks pretty close.

Also the chamber you are running will affect where your power comes on to a degree. The limited chamber will have better bottom end.
would a 10/16 be good?
 
theyre new aftermarket from mikuni with no choke and it came with t handles and im running a limited chamber
Those are much better than the stock carbs. Your jetting sounds close. Your water and pipe tuning can affect the power output as well.. how do you have it set? Where are the screws set on the headpipe?
 
would a 10/16 be good?
10/16 hooker would work. But not all impellers are the same. The pitch is just 1 part of it. The root angle and blade thickness also matter too because that will determine how hard the impeller loads the pump. For bottom end and freestyle, skat impellers are very good..they're light and have a thinner blade for better acceleration. Solas impellers are heavier and thicker which will provide better top speed in most applications. A 9/15 solas is not the same as a 9/15 skat or hooker even though the pitch says the same thing. There's things you can do to loosen the pump a little without changing impellers. Open up the reduction nozzle, put a smaller pump cone on or adding shims behind the impeller will also loosen the pump. If you put shims behind yoir impeller and it gets better rhen that is a sign your impeller is too tall. Most impellers now have material removed inside the hub so the trailing edge blades are closer to the veins in the pump or a "setback" This improves efficiency but also increases the pump load. Ive been playing woth this on my ski.. I have 4mm thick of shims behind the impeller and that helped it a lot with bottom snap. But I need to go down in pitch so I can remove the shims and not loose the current pump tune.
 
its setup like wamiltons with i think 5/8 open on bottom and mid and top closed, also have a fcv
Generally speaking, opening the bottom screw and closing the others will give better top end with a slight loss in bottom snap.. you might try the top screw open 1/2 turn with the others closed and see if it gets better.. there's many ways to set up yoir ski for different riding styles.. some guys run bigger carbs with big pilot jets that add lots of fuel down low for the bottom, and tune their pipe for top end. Just cracking the bottom screw..then the larger pilot jets and lots of timing down low cool the chamber for the bottom response and instant power off idle. This is more of a flatwater setup. It makes the power more on or off instead of a linear power delivery.
 
10/16 hooker would work. But not all impellers are the same. The pitch is just 1 part of it. The root angle and blade thickness also matter too because that will determine how hard the impeller loads the pump. For bottom end and freestyle, skat impellers are very good..they're light and have a thinner blade for better acceleration. Solas impellers are heavier and thicker which will provide better top speed in most applications. A 9/15 solas is not the same as a 9/15 skat or hooker even though the pitch says the same thing. There's things you can do to loosen the pump a little without changing impellers. Open up the reduction nozzle, put a smaller pump cone on or adding shims behind the impeller will also loosen the pump. If you put shims behind yoir impeller and it gets better rhen that is a sign your impeller is too tall. Most impellers now have material removed inside the hub so the trailing edge blades are closer to the veins in the pump or a "setback" This improves efficiency but also increases the pump load. Ive been playing woth this on my ski.. I have 4mm thick of shims behind the impeller and that helped it a lot with bottom snap. But I need to go down in pitch so I can remove the shims and not loose the current pump tune.
yeah im considering getting the 10/16 hooker but im seeing now theres a lot of other stuff you can do first
 
10/16 hooker would work. But not all impellers are the same. The pitch is just 1 part of it. The root angle and blade thickness also matter too because that will determine how hard the impeller loads the pump. For bottom end and freestyle, skat impellers are very good..they're light and have a thinner blade for better acceleration. Solas impellers are heavier and thicker which will provide better top speed in most applications. A 9/15 solas is not the same as a 9/15 skat or hooker even though the pitch says the same thing. There's things you can do to loosen the pump a little without changing impellers. Open up the reduction nozzle, put a smaller pump cone on or adding shims behind the impeller will also loosen the pump. If you put shims behind yoir impeller and it gets better rhen that is a sign your impeller is too tall. Most impellers now have material removed inside the hub so the trailing edge blades are closer to the veins in the pump or a "setback" This improves efficiency but also increases the pump load. Ive been playing woth this on my ski.. I have 4mm thick of shims behind the impeller and that helped it a lot with bottom snap. But I need to go down in pitch so I can remove the shims and not loose the current pump tune.
so if i get a 10/16 hooker it would perform better down low way better than the one from solas
 
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