- Location
- Tampa, Florida
Does anyone know of a method to test a flywheel (related to the elctrical system) to see if it is good or bad?
Can you test a flywheel?
- Thread starter mr strut
- Start date
norcal ex
X-H2
- Location
- San Jose, CA
swap it with one you know works...
- Location
- Tampa, Florida
I do not have another one.....
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
Got's no spark? If the Magnets are strong then you should be good. I got hung up on the same concept several years ago when my SJ would not fire, everything else checked out good. I started replacing every component, cheapest to not, and it eventually ended up being the CDI. I haven't heard of a stock flywheel failing yet, not saying it doesn't happen though. Look for a cheap one or one to borrow, stock flywheels are pretty commmon.
You are in the right place to get answers though. I wish I had posted on this site when I was working through my problem. Just let us know your symptoms and i'm sure collectively we can point you in the right direction or at least help you out with tracking down some parts.
welcome to the "X"
You are in the right place to get answers though. I wish I had posted on this site when I was working through my problem. Just let us know your symptoms and i'm sure collectively we can point you in the right direction or at least help you out with tracking down some parts.
welcome to the "X"
- Location
- Tampa, Florida
Here is what has been checked to date.
We have a blaster II motor in a B1. recent purchase, had some starting issues and got a new stator as the pulsar coil was thought to be bad. no fix.
We have taken the front cover off to check the ground, and resanded where someone else had already. also the other end of the ground where it goes in the ebox.
tested the lighting coil and charge coil. resistance and a/c voltage are perfect.
made new ground and positive cables as they were a little crusty and had the wrong size ends on em.
swapped a new cdi in
swapped a new coil in
bypassed the s/s switch- even thought the resistance is 0.0
checked the ground from the battery end thru the starter, to engine, to cover, to stator, to eboc/cdi. no resistance.
good condition odyssey battery, fully charged.
so as far as we can tell everything is just great. we have used a little spark tester that goes between the plug end and plug when I crank it over most times it goes maybe a half sec or one sec cranking and then sparks, but sometimes it has no spark at all. retry and most times it sparks and starts right up. but every few tries no spark.
so at some point we lost spark completely and could not get it back. all the while everything is checking out. figure maybe my cdi is bad as we had not installed it until I lost spark. we had a friend bring in his xl 760 and installed the BII cdi in it and the xl fired right up. everytime. swapped in the stator and again the xl fired up. so I put the stator and cdi from the xl in the BII and it starts. swap everything back and the BII starts again. So now we have no more ideas as to what to even look at. take the ski to the water hoping maybe the salt and use will aggravate the problem and make something fail. ski runs fine, IF you can start it. a few times it looked a little like it wasn't going to fire up but did at least 2-3 times. finally couldn't get ti to restart and battery was getting tired. so we thought that was it. Once the battery got full charge it fired up fine.
it seems if you start it a few times its fine then like the 3-4 time it skips and then sparks again.
recap, 12.8 odyssey battery, new cables, bypassed s/s, new stator, even with a new cdi and coil no start intermittent.
when flushing the ski we were feeling the cylinder temp and got a zapp, so we installed new MSD crimp on ends. but we did try a whole new setup not new to the ski brand new.
And after all of this we ended up checking the cranking amps, and they were at the levelsof a new battery. but it will restart after it misses a few times. the starter could be pulling it down extra too. I forget the voltage drop readings I took. the starter looks new(er) aftermarket.
Thank you for the welcome and thanks for any help you can offer.
We have a blaster II motor in a B1. recent purchase, had some starting issues and got a new stator as the pulsar coil was thought to be bad. no fix.
We have taken the front cover off to check the ground, and resanded where someone else had already. also the other end of the ground where it goes in the ebox.
tested the lighting coil and charge coil. resistance and a/c voltage are perfect.
made new ground and positive cables as they were a little crusty and had the wrong size ends on em.
swapped a new cdi in
swapped a new coil in
bypassed the s/s switch- even thought the resistance is 0.0
checked the ground from the battery end thru the starter, to engine, to cover, to stator, to eboc/cdi. no resistance.
good condition odyssey battery, fully charged.
so as far as we can tell everything is just great. we have used a little spark tester that goes between the plug end and plug when I crank it over most times it goes maybe a half sec or one sec cranking and then sparks, but sometimes it has no spark at all. retry and most times it sparks and starts right up. but every few tries no spark.
so at some point we lost spark completely and could not get it back. all the while everything is checking out. figure maybe my cdi is bad as we had not installed it until I lost spark. we had a friend bring in his xl 760 and installed the BII cdi in it and the xl fired right up. everytime. swapped in the stator and again the xl fired up. so I put the stator and cdi from the xl in the BII and it starts. swap everything back and the BII starts again. So now we have no more ideas as to what to even look at. take the ski to the water hoping maybe the salt and use will aggravate the problem and make something fail. ski runs fine, IF you can start it. a few times it looked a little like it wasn't going to fire up but did at least 2-3 times. finally couldn't get ti to restart and battery was getting tired. so we thought that was it. Once the battery got full charge it fired up fine.
it seems if you start it a few times its fine then like the 3-4 time it skips and then sparks again.
recap, 12.8 odyssey battery, new cables, bypassed s/s, new stator, even with a new cdi and coil no start intermittent.
when flushing the ski we were feeling the cylinder temp and got a zapp, so we installed new MSD crimp on ends. but we did try a whole new setup not new to the ski brand new.
And after all of this we ended up checking the cranking amps, and they were at the levelsof a new battery. but it will restart after it misses a few times. the starter could be pulling it down extra too. I forget the voltage drop readings I took. the starter looks new(er) aftermarket.
Thank you for the welcome and thanks for any help you can offer.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Same ski TOM21 is working on apparantly.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
This sounds to me like a corroded connection. I'm thinking the wiring harness between the stator and the ebox. There should be some waterproof quick connects that will be highly suspect. The intermittent spark and battery voltage symptoms both back up a high resistance connection.
Good luck, sounds like you have a good one there.
Good luck, sounds like you have a good one there.
THRUST
ThrustInnovations.com
- Location
- royal palm beach florida
odds are its not the flywheel . i have never changed one excepte for a cracked one .
- Location
- south carolina
i would replace the fuses. some times a fuse won't blow, but will melt and allow some current through, but not enough. see it happen all the time in car audio with aftermarket head-units.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Ummm there is only one fuse and the ignition circuit is not fused it is AC current.
- Location
- south carolina
right, but the cdi pulls current through the 1 fuse, and if it can't pull what it needs, it can't function correctly.
tom21
havin fun
- Location
- clearwater FL
worth looking at, its one thing I hadn't cleaned.
boykid, it can't be wiring, the new stator comes with the harness that plugs directly into the cdi. have swapped to a new cdi with no change. new battery cables.
the s/s switch is bypassed by disconnecting the white plug with red and brown wires, and jumping these two together to start, and disconnecting the black plug with the black and white wire.
boykid, it can't be wiring, the new stator comes with the harness that plugs directly into the cdi. have swapped to a new cdi with no change. new battery cables.
the s/s switch is bypassed by disconnecting the white plug with red and brown wires, and jumping these two together to start, and disconnecting the black plug with the black and white wire.
- Location
- Tampa, Florida
wfo speedracer, you are correct. Tom21 is the brains of the operation........I'm just the owner of what was someone elses problem!!!
SUPERTUNE
Race Gas Rules
- Location
- Clearwater Fl.
Change the stator...you stated you only did a check and test. I've only ever seen one flywheel give me problems and was a 61X with the exposed magnets and one got hit with something and cracked the magnet. Stators DO go bad more than anything else, well except MSD and Advent cdi's...
tom21
havin fun
- Location
- clearwater FL
chuck the stator is brand new, maybe a month old? I did not change it but it was just installed. I did clean the ground connection which was already pretty well cleaned up but now I know for a fact it is as good as it can be.
this bites, what else can I do? I guess I just need to keep swapping in new parts til the problem goes away and then work backwards. who has test parts?
this bites, what else can I do? I guess I just need to keep swapping in new parts til the problem goes away and then work backwards. who has test parts?
The fuse has no bearing if the CDI provides spark or not. If you read the circuit schematic you will see that the fuse is only responsible for the start switch sending voltage to the solenoid and to pass the charge current back to the battery. So if you press the start switch and the starter spins then the fuse is good and requires no cleaning or replacement. The CDI runs on the AC voltage from the charge coil of the stator.
Tom I know this is a stupid question but are the stator & flywheel both from either the 62t or 61x as a pair? I just mention this as you probably already know that the 61x stator is smaller than the 62t and if you have the wrong combo it could cause the flywheel magnets to be too far from the stator coils and lead to a weak voltage or pulse from all the coils.
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WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
I've looked at this ski too at tom's shop. its all 760 components: flywheel, stator, CDI.
Freakrider
X247
- Location
- Tampa Bay area
sounds like every component has been checked or swapped out for new...even though the ground has been checked....how about if you add an extra grounds to rule that out...an extra ground from the battery to the motor is good to have anyways...I have one on mine... then add an extra ground from motor to electrical box....
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Borrow a complete 61x or 62t electrics system and bolt them into the flakey ski and see if that solves the problem. Sounds kind of extreme but it sounds like there is a ghost in the machine somwhere. Sometimes I just go with the old "If you can't fix it, finish breaking it and start over":silly: