Bilge Switch Location

[Phsurf760]

I know i have seen this somewhere but cant find the picture. Its of a bilge switch the CPi to be exact, mounted in the start stop switch on RN. Anyone know if it is difficult to install that way?? It looked sweet.

 

[Kny21]

I know i have seen this somewhere but cant find the picture. Its of a bilge switch the CPi to be exact, mounted in the start stop switch on RN. Anyone know if it is difficult to install that way?? It looked sweet.

It's a billet piece that mounts on the bottom of the S/S switch using the the stock screw mounts. I have the billet piece only if you want it, $15 shipped..... you'll need to go to a hardware store and get longer screws then the stock ones.

Ken

 

[Shonuff]

I rode YAMACATs SuperJet with one on hers and it was hella sweet.

Love the avatar. New boot goofin'.

 

[SJBrit]

Just don't buy the $70+ "waterproof" switch that mounts on the bars. It's a piece of junk.

 

[Phsurf760]

Is the rotary switch better???

 

[SJBrit]

Is the rotary switch better???

I've never used one, but I think people say it's better. You get about one season out of the other one if you're lucky: mine started to have problems with the off switch after a week or so, and failed completely (in the "on" position) after a season. I now use the fuze technique: just pull it out for off, and tuck it under the battery bungee so you don't lose it :biggthumpup:

 

[ATS_Aaron]

Just don't buy the $70+ "waterproof" switch that mounts on the bars. It's a piece of junk.

Damnit. That is what I have. My wife's SN has a CHROME toggle switch from the auto parts store. It's not waterproof, so it will probably fail in ~1 year. But it was <$2 too.

Aaron

 

[SJBrit]

This is the one I'm talking about: http://www.blowsion.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=AWAC0217

Not worth the money.

 

[ATS_Aaron]

Yep, that is the one I have. It's Yamaha specific though.

Aaron

 

[Kny21]

The mounts are different but the switches are all the same.... I've heard they aren't all that good, but I only had limited experience with mine as it came with a ski I bought and it had a slice in the rubber housing on the switch itself.

Here is the actual switch from the maker..... wonder if you could get them cheaper from them?

http://cpinj.thomasnet.com/item/wat...64?&plpver=10&origin=advsrch&by=prod&filter=0

 

[njfl]

I think this is the one:

http://cpinj.thomasnet.com/item/wat...365?&plpver=10&origin=keyword&filter=&by=prod

crammit442 pointed out to me that there are two styles of encapsulated buttons. One has a lot of rubber around the buttons making the toggle action very "soft." The other has only a thin layer of rubber and has a very clean rocker action. I have the softer one and it is difficult to switch on/off when wearing gloves. I do not know how to tell from teh part number which one is which.

 

[SUPERTUNE]

If you use this type of switch... this link that Joe posted, is the one to use! Make sure you keep the wire coming out as straight as possible and some times I epoxy them around the wire to seal the housing better. How you can tell the military one from the cheap one... this one has a seam between the buttons.
P.S. I dont use the holder mount, just zip tie and let poke out straight from under chin pad and then you can just give it a pinch to turn on and off...

 

[SUPERJET-113]

Ya, that holder mount can be a chin shanker or shin knocker!
I prefer the rotary switch and mount it on the underside of my alum handle pole.

 

[Shrivel]

I'm done with bilge switches. I'm using the "pull the fuse" method as well. Stick it in at the start of the day and pull it when I'm done...

 

[njfl]

P.S. I dont use the holder mount, just zip tie and let poke out straight from under chin pad and then you can just give it a pinch to turn on and off...

Good tip. Thanks.