- Location
- florida
ahh duhh stupid me lmao, i would have re read it eventually but thanks for putting it all in one place, if the needle and seat fail my inspection, which needle and seat should i get 1.0 1.5 and 2.0 are the options i think?
Super Jet back again looking for advice on my sn... :/
- Thread starter Krashtestdustin
- Start date
Whatever is in there now, since it was running fine with it, right?. It'll say on the bottom of the seat.
It's possible that the pin has a bur. The needle itself could have burrs on the body. The seat barrel could be screwed up. The Arm could be bent. The diaphragm could have problems.
It's possible that the pin has a bur. The needle itself could have burrs on the body. The seat barrel could be screwed up. The Arm could be bent. The diaphragm could have problems.
- Location
- florida
orrr should i just follow my fathers race car mentallity "if you break it or its broke upgrade it" and get ahold of art and get me a brapjack??
- Location
- florida
the only thing i know to look for on the diaphragm is for tears or rips, what else should i look for
oh aand thanks for all the advice this site has helped me learn so much never had to work on my ski till i got my super jet my 650sx never gave me any problems...so glad i found the X!!
oh aand thanks for all the advice this site has helped me learn so much never had to work on my ski till i got my super jet my 650sx never gave me any problems...so glad i found the X!!
- Location
- florida
ok so about the ks whats a possible quick fix the having it hooked up causing loss of spark?
- Location
- florida
the ski lost fire randomly on the last trip out, i cut either the wire going to just the kill switch on the start and stop and fire returned, i know it the switch but what in the switch causes this and how are some possible fixes
and prolly gonna poull the carb apart tomorrow if i get off early enough man i need a new job lmao
and prolly gonna poull the carb apart tomorrow if i get off early enough man i need a new job lmao
- Location
- florida
ive never took the s/s switch apart before is it hard to do?
- Location
- florida
if i have the cash should i just upgrade to a blackjack or just stick with the oem 44 and replace the needle and seat? the motors stock as of now but have plans for a high comp head and bpipe over the winter
- Location
- florida
will do tomorrow, hopefully it rains so i can go home fairly early and nock it all out before the weekend
- Location
- Lake Shafer, Indiana
im having the exact same problems with my square nose. I replaced the carb the other day and it didnt help the problem. I replaced plugs, the breather tube coming from the gas tank, the fuel filter, completley drained the gas and put fresh in. I cant figure out whats going on with it. I was told compression check first but i dont think it would run at all if the compression was bad. Im at a loss of what to do myself. Just to clarify tho, the NEEDLES when you guys talk about those, are they the yellowish valves inside the carb itself? Good luck man
- Location
- florida
hmm ive nvr really tried to discribe it before harder than it i thought already erased 4 attempts so i will have to leave it to matt_e or someone else to describe lol
- Location
- Rochester, NY
there is one needle and one seat per carb. the needle and seat are a matched pair...the seat is just a brass barrel, and the needle is like a short, stubby pencil sitting in the seat.
take the carb out of the ski & pull off the diamond shaped cover on the side of the carb. lift off the round diaphram gasket. with the air intake up, the needle & seat is on the left...under that silver spring loaded arm. push down on the other end of the arm (dead center of the gasket circle) and the needle lifts up. take that all apart and clean it...if the black rubber tip of the needle has a groove worn around it that's a good clue it needs to be replaced.
And, other point: it has been mentioned here several times, but I'm not certain you've noticed: there is a fuel filter IN THE CARB. It's on the other side...the square side (fuel pump). Undo those covers and lift out the black plastic round barrel. It's probably gunked up...and is a key root cause of a ski that dies after 10 minutes or so. While you are in the fuel pump side: also inspect the 2 round clear discs that are held in place by a black rubber grommet through their center. If they are kinked or any other hint that they are not sealing around the edge then replace them.
take the carb out of the ski & pull off the diamond shaped cover on the side of the carb. lift off the round diaphram gasket. with the air intake up, the needle & seat is on the left...under that silver spring loaded arm. push down on the other end of the arm (dead center of the gasket circle) and the needle lifts up. take that all apart and clean it...if the black rubber tip of the needle has a groove worn around it that's a good clue it needs to be replaced.
And, other point: it has been mentioned here several times, but I'm not certain you've noticed: there is a fuel filter IN THE CARB. It's on the other side...the square side (fuel pump). Undo those covers and lift out the black plastic round barrel. It's probably gunked up...and is a key root cause of a ski that dies after 10 minutes or so. While you are in the fuel pump side: also inspect the 2 round clear discs that are held in place by a black rubber grommet through their center. If they are kinked or any other hint that they are not sealing around the edge then replace them.
Last edited:
GSXR RACER MIKE
20 years of stand up
- Location
- Northern Illinois
I had a metal part in my stop switch break from fatigue, that sucker drove me nuts because it would die at what seemed to be completely random times. What I figured out was when the broken piece would vibrate over and make contact between both the metal pieces in the housing it would kill the engine. Sometimes this would result in a similar situation as yourself where the ski wouldn't start back up when out on the water, what that was from in my case was because the handle pole was all the way down and the ski was tipped back slightly from me hanging behind it in the water and it would allow that metal piece to fall toward the back of the ski and short out the switch. Once I made it to shore the ski would fire up again because I was standing next to it and would lift the pole up to push the start button, because the pole was now at an angle the little metal piece wouldn't make contact anymore (unless I set the pole down and vibration moved the metal piece).
If that's not it you might want to help eliminate another potential issue by disconnecting every electrical connection you can find (one at a time), inspect them and make sure they're not corroded, then reconnect them to make sure they have good contact (adding dielectric grease to the connectors wouldn't be a bad idea either).
Good luck!
If that's not it you might want to help eliminate another potential issue by disconnecting every electrical connection you can find (one at a time), inspect them and make sure they're not corroded, then reconnect them to make sure they have good contact (adding dielectric grease to the connectors wouldn't be a bad idea either).
Good luck!
- Location
- florida
couldnt have explained it any better, and the filter is clean, and will check the plastic things tomorrow took off work just for the purpose trying to solve this
- Location
- florida
will definitely inspect the switch tomorrow while doing the carb, and as far as all the connections i checked and replaced all corroded ones when i replaced my coil about a week ago so im 99.9% possitive my problem is not there
- Location
- florida
so went to order a needle and seat as well as a rebuild kit today and seen that they had oem 44 mikunis for about $180 so i just went ahead and bought a whole new carbhopefully that eliminates the first problem now just to fix the stop switch causeing loose of fire when its hooked up (as long as i just unhook the stop switch and go to turn it over the ski fires right up)