B-pipe inst ques. help please.

HAMMER

HAMMER

SKI ADDICT
Wammer Mod B-pipe with dual cool set-up

1st Ques.
I know the line from the pump goes to one of the barbed fittings on the bottom of the exh. man.
What line goes on the second barbed fitting.


2nd.Ques.
I have the stock head,in his diagram from the Wamilton web site he shows the cooling line from the back cyl.going to the bottom of the head pipe and front cyl. going out to side squirter out of hull,problem is my stock head only has a small nipple there with that little hose. I've got no clue on how to handle this correctly to set it up as dual cooling.

Any help is appreciated!
HAMMER
 
S

sflsurfrider

HAMMER said:
Wammer Mod B-pipe with dual cool set-up

1st Ques.
I know the line from the pump goes to one of the barbed fittings on the bottom of the exh. man.
What line goes on the second barbed fitting.


2nd.Ques.
I have the stock head,in his diagram from the Wamilton web site he shows the cooling line from the back cyl.going to the bottom of the head pipe and front cyl. going out to side squirter out of hull,problem is my stock head only has a small nipple there with that little hose. I've got no clue on how to handle this correctly to set it up as dual cooling.

Any help is appreciated!
HAMMER
Click to expand...



1: true dual cooling requires you tap your pump for another fitting and use your syphon bilge tube for the secondary line. that would connect to the second fitting on the manifold.

2: first, you have to decide if you want to set your pump up for dual cooling. if you do, you can drill and tap where the little nipple on the head is and put another barbed fitting there.


you might consider a girdled head.
 
vomitspot

vomitspot

Location
mobile alabama
need to get us some pics of your stuff
i did mine with 1 coming to the bottom of the manifold & 2 coming out the head and overboard
2nd line coming into the bottom of the pipe out the top with a T to the stinger and then over board
some will tell you to put both cooling lines in to the bottom of the manifold
if you go that rought then the one coming out of the head needs to go to the head pipe
 
S

sflsurfrider

if youre at stock compression, just run your single cooling into a TEE. then run the 2 hoses from that TEE into the 2 barbs on the manifold.

you can just crimp the small nipple on the head in this case.
 
HAMMER

HAMMER

SKI ADDICT
sflsurfrider said:
1: true dual cooling requires you tap your pump for another fitting and use your syphon bilge tube for the secondary line. that would connect to the second fitting on the manifold.

2: first, you have to decide if you want to set your pump up for dual cooling. if you do, you can drill and tap where the little nipple on the head is and put another barbed fitting there.


you might consider a girdled head.
Click to expand...

Where would i tap the pump for the 2nd fitting with keeping the stock syphon?

Definitely want dual cooling
For me i think a girdled head would be easiest never drilled and tapped a head before.
 
S

sflsurfrider

if you keep the stock syphon, youre going to have to run another 3/8" metal tube through the hull. that is a lot more work. why not use a bilge pump or 2.

are you planning on adding a scupper?....er, do you have a scupper?
 
HAMMER

HAMMER

SKI ADDICT
sflsurfrider said:
if youre at stock compression, just run your single cooling into a TEE. then run the 2 hoses from that TEE into the 2 barbs on the manifold.

you can just crimp the small nipple on the head in this case.
Click to expand...

I'm at stk. comp. for now (monies tight aft. byin pipe)I'll do the idea mentioned above, Wammer provides a lil cap and clamp for small nipp.on head

No scupper,plan on bilges and head next seas.
Just didn't really want to get a head yet cause of money .
Any other tips sflsurfrider, & thanks for the help so far.

Reason for dual cooling I thought was for eng longevity and more consistent H.P.
Forgive me I don't really know a heck of alot,learnin as i go:biggthumpup:

HAMMER
 
Waste Land

Waste Land

Non Multa Sed Multum
Location
Florence, AL
You shouldnt need dual cooling unless your motor is making more heat. Keeping your motor too cool will actual limit the power output.....some one correct me if im wrong
 
HAMMER

HAMMER

SKI ADDICT
so should i get a head now
set up pump for dual cooling and add a bilge
at a stand still on inst. this pipe.
Don,t want to make any mistakes,now would be a good time to change head and set pump & bilge up while it's apart.
I'll have to find the money one way or another to do this or put ski away till it's together right.

Thanks for the help this site is really the best informative one i've been on

HAMMER
 
S

sflsurfrider

do you have the engine out of the ski?

the head is an easy install for later after the engine is back in. i only suggested a girdled head because i think that all 61x cylinders should have one - ported or not.

btw, my wifes ported 61x with b pipe and girdled 185 psi engine is only running single cooling and has no overheating issues.
 
HAMMER

HAMMER

SKI ADDICT
No the engine is not out.
To drill and tap the head where that little cooling nipple is do i need to remove the head. If so that would determine for me wether or not to get a head and domes.What would u recc. with no porting and running stock carbs.
Thanks michael950 for the links.

HAMMER
 
vomitspot

vomitspot

Location
mobile alabama
no need to remove the head to drill /tap cooling fitting
dont get me wrong girdled heads are nice!
im not saying that you need duel cooling i use to run single like that but i had had 3 blasters and 1 sj that kept overheating because it couldnt get the hot water out fast enough
added the 2nd cooling line and 2 pissers off the head 1 off the pipe good to go!
 
S

sflsurfrider

you could drill and tap w/ the head in place but youre risking clogging the extractor fittings in the headpipe with aluminum shavings when you put the ski in the water.

:haha:

id just remove the head, drill, tap, rinse, install fitting, put on new gasket and retorque.
 
SUPERTUNE

SUPERTUNE

Race Gas Rules
Location
Clearwater Fl.
Hey S rider, When was the last time you went to Yamaha and bought a new OEM headgasket? They're almost $50 now...+ a lot of work scraping a OEM gasket off, No problem for me as I have lots of air tools, but can be a hard labor job by hand. I see no need to pull head. Just pull out small bypass tube on head then drill and tap w/ 1/8 pipe threads and screw in a 3/8 barbed fitting, All you need to do is flush the system with water from the hose before final install of waterlines. Just flush from the new fitting (plug the stock outlet to do this)and flush out back to the pump.
You will need to pull pump and drill and tap for a 2nd line, and as stated if your going to keep the stock siphon set-up you will need to drill the hull with a 3/8 drill bit welded to a piece of 2 1/2 foot of 1/4 rod. Locate drill just above the siphon tube and drill through to the engine compartment. Use thin wall 3/8 S.S. tubing and hammer in with a mallot then seal the hull where the tube comes out each end with a dab of silicone or 5200 sealer. Now you have a new tube in hull to run a 2nd water line.
 
HAMMER

HAMMER

SKI ADDICT
Thanks supertune and thge rest of ya
That is good advice and appreciated
I'm leaning towards ditching the syphon and addin a bilge,less work.
Still debating about the head

HAMMER
 
HAMMER

HAMMER

SKI ADDICT
decided to get a girdled head and domes
tapping pump for dual cooling
adding bilge
issue over,just need to order parts.
Any sugges. for head, cyl not ported.
38's
b-pipe
I had in mind ada gir. head with 35mm domes
re-jet carbs.any other ideas i'm open for them

HAMMER
 
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