Super Jet b pipe coupler will not stay put

Tyler Zane

Open Your Eyes
anyone else ever had a problem with the coupler slipping off the head pipe? i have not had any problems with it until today and i just cant keep it on... cleaned it, tightened it down really tight, tired it just snug... fk!
 

junkyardj

┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐
is your waterbox snug? if its shaking like crazy it might help pop the coupler off

i usualy losen all the clamps and tighten them all that the same time to make sure nothings pulling
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
Is the lip on the head pipe or chamber damaged? If not, you should be able to torque the hose clamps down past the lip so that it physically can't go past the it. The head pipe is slightly smaller than the chamber so if the coupler is old and worn out, it may be too loose and you can't quite get it to squash down enough/slipping out from under the clamp. The only other thing I can think of is maybe the opening is bent and it isn't circular anymore.
 

Tyler Zane

Open Your Eyes
the pipe is new from this past winter. nothing is damaged. the problem i see is there isnt enough room on the head pipe side for some extra coupler past the clamp. the clamp is always on the edge of the coupler, which hasnt been a problem until now. im going to clean it all up, loosen all the clamps and try again tomorrow. its really retarded that this is stopping me from riding. some thing so simple... my coupler is barley long enough to fit on both without the chamber and hp being butted up. seems like you should be able to keep them a half inch or so apart. isnt that what its for, taking vibrations away? im gonna get them welded together lol
 

deftons56

Brian
Location
lake goodwin
Happened in my BOB, in my case it had to do with how the pipe chamber was twisted. Once you get the coupler on, twist the chamber until it feels like its butted up to the head pipe right. Then tighten the clamps tight.
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
use an 8mm socket wrench to tighten your clamps instead of a flathead. You need to crank those suckers tight and they won't go anywhere.

I butt the chamber tight to the headpipe as well. No space between them.
 

easyrhino

needs more cowbell.
Location
The river
didn't like that one? how about this.

If you think the coupler is to short, the chamber may need a little twist to meet flush with the header.
 

easyrhino

needs more cowbell.
Location
The river
yea, the flang on the chaimber is not squarded to the centerline. I think(did last year) you can pull the coupler on to the chamber to check for a gap between header and chamber.
 

GIL

Power In The Hands Of Few
Location
Cullman AL
I always clean the coupler with acetone and then install with glass cleaner to prevent the issue you are speaking of sir! Once the glass cleaner dries (which is quickly) it becomes sticky to help hold things in place while tightening the clamps.
 
There should NOT be a gap between the head pipe and chamber. Butt the metal pieces together, rotate the chamber until it seats well to the headpipe, and tighten that sucker down.

I know that having a gap between the hp and chamber will cause the coupler to wear out a lot faster...it's likely that it will cause it to pop loose too.
 
I always clean the coupler with acetone and then install with glass cleaner to prevent the issue you are speaking of sir! Once the glass cleaner dries (which is quickly) it becomes sticky to help hold things in place while tightening the clamps.
i had this happen at your ride last year, come to find out the coupler was just wore out. somebody gave me a new one and the problem went away.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
the pipe is new from this past winter. nothing is damaged. the problem i see is there isnt enough room on the head pipe side for some extra coupler past the clamp. the clamp is always on the edge of the coupler, which hasnt been a problem until now. im going to clean it all up, loosen all the clamps and try again tomorrow. its really retarded that this is stopping me from riding. some thing so simple... my coupler is barley long enough to fit on both without the chamber and hp being butted up. seems like you should be able to keep them a half inch or so apart. isnt that what its for, taking vibrations away? im gonna get them welded together lol

Ding Ding Ding.............. With them apart you are giving the coupler room to move and stretch causing the head pipe to pop out. Remove coupler, clean it up, install coupler onto the chamber just far enough to hold it, now install headpipe into coupler, tighten up, loosen chamber side and force the head pipe all the way until it hits the chamber. Tighten up the coupler on the chamber. You have now set the distance the coupler needs to be on the chamber to allow the headpipe flange to slip in place.

USE WINDEX to aid in this, you cannot use too much, it is alcohol based, it will evaporate.
 
coupler should be 2 1/16th to 2 1/8" long. Get pipe as close as possible to chamber and make sure it is lined up! '08 and up is wider, don't have chamber to w/b ell close to the hull like on earlier skis! Just to spite everyone, I've been using Palmolive or Dawn dishwashing detergent as installation lube. No failures noted. It is normal for the clamp on the chamber to slip rearward not leaving any lip exposed. Still has been working that way for over 18 years.
 

Tyler Zane

Open Your Eyes
18 years! wow, i think one of my problems was i wasnt tightening the clamps enough. the instructions said not to over tighten them... i havnt got to ride yet but i do have it back together. a good cleaning with asetone helped from what i can tell. i couldnt believe how nasty it got in that chamber just from december.
 
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