Super Jet Are silicone couplers all same quality/strength??

[showmepro1200]

Got the new 44 blackjacks on Experimental's RN this past weekend - hits like a ton of bricks (Art Gomez is a god). So much hit now that it has developed a split in the inside curve of the blue silicone angle coupler between the stinger and the waterbox :banghead:

In reality I don't know if it is the extra hit from the new carbs, the possible extra heat from adjusting the B-pipe a bit (no its not totally closed off!), or just simply the wear and tear of 2-3 years of use.

My question - are all silicone couplers created alike? I know that there are 2-3-4 ply versions, and I know some have said use the original Yami hose cut down (although its not a great fit to the stinger I think). Are folks getting one brand over the other to get longer use out of them? Where and how much???

Going to buy asap this week so as to have next weekend - thanks in advance. :Banane09:

 

[Matt_E]

I've been using the same cut down oem hose for over five years. Just tighten down that hose clamp really good. Durability wise, the oem hose cannot be beat.

 

[showmepro1200]

I've been using the same cut down oem hose for over five years. Just tighten down that hose clamp really good. Durability wise, the oem hose cannot be beat.

The OEM does seem to be the strongest - I just don't feel good about trying to get it sqished down to the stinger OD and have good sealing of the exhaust.

 

[Matt_E]

I have been doing just that for five years without issues.

 

[wright2383]

i just replaced my headpipe/stinger coupler with one i cut down from siliconeintakes.com its thick 4 ply, 9 layers total. seems extremely solid. they have all different sizes and bends.

 

[showmepro1200]

I have been doing just that for five years without issues.

You using special t-clamps or anything? Seems like the regular stainless hose clamps wouldn't hold up to that amount of tightening....

 

[ncbrock]

they will hold up fine. The stock hose is really good and the hose clamps can be tightened down as hard as you can tighten a wrench or screw driver, whatever you use. The stock hose still seals pretty well even when the hose clamps arent cranked down all the way.

 

[showmepro1200]

they will hold up fine. The stock hose is really good and the hose clamps can be tightened down as hard as you can tighten a wrench or screw driver, whatever you use. The stock hose still seals pretty well even when the hose clamps arent cranked down all the way.

I must have gone through a batch of cheap clamps in the past - I haven't always had that level of success with extreme tightening.

 

[58vwragtop]

I use the stock hose cut down also. I put a little high temp silicone on the stinger and hose clamped it tight. Its holding up great after a couple years.

 

[ncbrock]

The hose clamps I bought from lowes are holding really well for me cranked as hard as they can go.

 

[Matt_E]

You using special t-clamps or anything? Seems like the regular stainless hose clamps wouldn't hold up to that amount of tightening....

The same rusty standard hose clamp for give years.

 

[showmepro1200]

The same rusty standard hose clamp for give years.

I'm pretty much sold on the cut-down oem - but anyone know of national retail stores maybe in my area that would have the high strength clamps? I'll use the regular ones but eventually would replace with the stronger ones.

 

[ncbrock]

I mean its not really rocket science here. Maybe you just had bad luck or bad clamps. Just hop over to lowes and give those a try.

 

[showmepro1200]

I mean its not really rocket science here. Maybe you just had bad luck or bad clamps. Just hop over to lowes and give those a try.

I know that. I have had them pop though (the worm drive comes out of the slots). And part of that comes from the rubber of the hose 'squishing up' through the slots.

 

[GIL]

Right or wrong, here is what I do and it IS dam near permanant!

Go to a parts store and get a 12" stick of 2" ID radiator hose and cut off a 2" long peice of it, slip that into the
OEM exhaust hose with a lil DAP Weldwood on the OD of the 2" piece and the ID of the 2+1/2" piece. Now the
untouched end of the OEM hose goes on waterbox side and the modified end goes on the stinger. BEWARE----
once you slip the end of the stinger of the chamber and clamp it-the new 2" ID does NOT want to come off of
the stinger end of the chamber. If you change chambers all the time-this is a PITA-if not-it works great, does
not stress clamps and does not bunch up the 2+1/2" hose on the stinger side.

Hope this helps.
Gil

 

[showmepro1200]

Thanks Gil - will consider that option

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

I would bet that would work really well even without the DAP on there.

 

[GIL]

I would bet that would work really well even without the DAP on there.

True-the DAP is anal retentive disorder kickin in. LOL

I have seen sooooo many skis w/a tiny ex leak that let them still run, but not as good as they could if they lost the dam ex leak. I like my ex sealed up above and beyond!