anyone want to help me out?

[chrisdoc0608]

I have spent the last week or two trying to diagnose why me ski has no spark. You name it I have tried it: 4 coils, 2 stators, 3 cdi's, 2 boxes, 2 rectifiers, 2 ss switches, and 2 relays. Crammit and I just spent an hour and a half on the phone trying to figure it out and nothing seems to work. All the parts test good on a meter, but nothing seems to make me get spark back. I have ran numerous ground wires (battery to head, battery to ground post in e-box, head to mounting bracket for ebox) to make sure I have good grounds, still nothing.

Would anyone (trustworthy) be willing to let me ship my ebox along with the stock cdi, msd enhancer, and a couple of coils and see if you can hook up the box to your stator and get it to run. I would just go buy another stator, but that didnt do the trick the first time and I hate to piss away money and not be sure it will fix the problem.

 

[#ZERO]

What ignition system are you running 61X, 62T, or 64X?

 

[chrisdoc0608]

61x

 

[#ZERO]

Did you check the resistance of the pulsar coils, charging coils and ignition coils?

Also make sure you're running a 61X flywheel and not the larger diameter 62T if you have a 61X stator.

 

[chrisdoc0608]

Did you check the resistance of the pulsar coils, charging coils and ignition coils?

Also make sure you're running a 61X flywheel and not the 62T if you have a 61X stator.

The original stator in the ski was 61x with 61x stock lightened flywheel. I tested the coils for resistance and came up with:

primary coil reads a little under .2 ohms ( black and red wires to coil)
The ends of the plug wires read a constant 4300 ohms
The charge coil reads just under 400 ohms
The pulser coil reads 15 ohms

While cranking the ski and testing on the 100 ac setting the charge coil reads 3.2 and the pulser coil reads .4


I have tried 4 ignition coils and I know they are all not bad so that is one factor out of the equation, I also have tried without the start stop switch even connected (jumped the start wires) so thats out as well

 

[extreemthrottle]

have to say, start with the simple stuff first. check the wires make sure none a broken (even internally) check the connectors, make sure none are corroded or even pushed back so they don't make a good connection. i had a similar problem last year, i cleaned the connectors with terminal cleaner and added dielectric grease, and the problem was gone. hope yours is that simple..

 

[mr strut]

Hey, check out the thread that is now listed, "Can you test a flywheel" Does thisa sound like everything you have done? You might want to send a PM to tom21 and get his input.

 

[chrisdoc0608]

have to say, start with the simple stuff first. check the wires make sure none a broken (even internally) check the connectors, make sure none are corroded or even pushed back so they don't make a good connection. i had a similar problem last year, i cleaned the connectors with terminal cleaner and added dielectric grease, and the problem was gone. hope yours is that simple..

Wishful thinking, but I'm afraid thats not the case. I have cleaned and re-cleaned every connection, eyelet, and mounting surface. Like I said, I have spend HOURS trying everything under the sun.... I feel like I'm losing my mind

 

[#ZERO]

Did you check your flywheel to see if it might have a cracked magnet?

I'm guessing you've already checked to inline fuse and voltage & grounds to the MSD or CDI unit

Your resistance on the charging coil seems a bit high for the 61x mine all read about 347 ohms.

Also how are you checking for spark, are you using a gap tester or the plugs grounded out.

 

[chrisdoc0608]

I did not look to see if I had a cracked magnet, I assumed the flywheel was ok since the ac voltage readings were within spec. I did check the fuse, and even bypassed it to eliminate it as a possibility. I checked for spark by grounding the plugs and looking at my tach for any rpm reading since it gets the reading from the wire as they fire

 

[#ZERO]

Don't forget spark plugs can short out internally especially the ones with built in resistance.

I've seen a few 61x flywheels with cracked magnets since they are exposed there more susceptible to be damaged.

Usually they're very noticeable to spot when cracked because the plastic case will expand outward and tiny pieces stick inside the metal housing.

 

[chrisdoc0608]

...ill take a peek at the flywheel tomorrow. I have tried a few different plugs so I dont think thats the problem.

none of this happened until after wavedaze when i got salt water in my ebox and found it a few weeks later, but im using different parts and still getting the same result so I feel like I am overlooking something that should be obvious.... unless I just got really unlucky and the stator I had in the ski to begin with is bad along with the stator I just bought. but judging by the condition and test readings on both I just think that may not be the case, hence the reason I dont want to purchase anything else until I know for a fact what is wrong.

 

[ger87410]

At this point, I'd check the continuity of ALL the wires involved.

Make sure you move the wire while checking to check for a loose connection.

 

[GDFL]

unplug your start/stop switch and manually jump the pins or jump the solenoid to start it. You may have already tried, but it sounds like you're cranking it with the stop button pushed. I know that you aren't, but it gives the same effect. Those little buttons are easy to take apart and rebuild within the start/stop assembly. The best thing I did was replace the tiny steel springs with a small sliver of silicon tubing I took from my nitro rc truck spares box. Cut it lengthwise the same size as the spring and you'll never have to worry about the spring rusting into nothing again.

 

[Mark44]

i

unplug your start/stop switch and manually jump the pins or jump the solenoid to start it. You may have already tried, but it sounds like you're cranking it with the stop button pushed. I know that you aren't, but it gives the same effect. Those little buttons are easy to take apart and rebuild within the start/stop assembly. The best thing I did was replace the tiny steel springs with a small sliver of silicon tubing I took from my nitro rc truck spares box. Cut it lengthwise the same size as the spring and you'll never have to worry about the spring rusting into nothing again.

Good idea on the hose.

Mark44

 

[chrisdoc0608]

At this point, I'd check the continuity of ALL the wires involved.

Make sure you move the wire while checking to check for a loose connection.

continuity on all wires? is that possible on the cdi and other parts? I know to check continuity on the start stop wires, can you elaborate as to which wires to test togather on the other parts?

unplug your start/stop switch and manually jump the pins or jump the solenoid to start it. You may have already tried, but it sounds like you're cranking it with the stop button pushed. I know that you aren't, but it gives the same effect. Those little buttons are easy to take apart and rebuild within the start/stop assembly. The best thing I did was replace the tiny steel springs with a small sliver of silicon tubing I took from my nitro rc truck spares box. Cut it lengthwise the same size as the spring and you'll never have to worry about the spring rusting into nothing again.

thanks for the suggestion, in my third post I said I tried that with no success.

 

[ger87410]

Take each wire out and check the resistance across it. You'll need to test each wire independently and removed from the circuit.

They should all have no resistance.

 

[chrisdoc0608]

Take each wire out and check the resistance across it. You'll need to test each wire independently and removed from the circuit.

They should all have no resistance.

so one probe to ground then the other to each wire? I assume you are refering to the cdi because the stator should have resistance.