Anyone use these one way valves???

Cannibal

Cannibal

Tasty Human
Location
Summit Lake, WA
Got it at a local hardware store. My HD didn't have anything like it but a crappy flap version that wouldn't stay closed on it's own.

This has a soft spring holding it closed. I can make it open by just shaking it or I drop if from 2" into the palm of my hand and it opens and closes.

I put some weight on it, and found that it will open 1/4" with 178 grams on it.

You guys think this will work?
 

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Motorheads5

Motorheads5

Livin the generation gap
Location
ketchikan alaska
I think it would work just fine. screw a pipe on it and measure how huch water it takes it to open that would give you some kind of an idea you also have g force helping in a ski application. like Mick said be sure the innerd's are stainless.
 
yamanube

yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
I would definitely test it out hooked to a pipe before you glass it into your hull and find it doesn't open.
 
OCD Solutions

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
Don't knock the cheap/simple stuff. I'd buy both and try them out, the simpler the unit the better.

My old 92 SN came with a hardware store special, 1" with rubber flapper like the first one you described and it worked flawless for over 7 yrs. When I redid my hull I added a 2" tube and an aftermarket flapper and it's leaked ever since.

I used to leave my ski floating in the middle of the lake for hours while I cruised in a buddies boat and never feared it sinking, now it bottoms out on shore if left for more than 15 mins.

My newer skis got dual bilges and no scupper. My old ski will likely get a hardware store special jammed down it's tailpipe later this summer to fix it.
 
Cannibal

Cannibal

Tasty Human
Location
Summit Lake, WA
It has stainless hardware in it, and the "pin" is just a bolt and the valve is sandwich jammed on. You can't adjust it at all because it is bolted together then the two halves are assembled. So.... I took it to the lathe and cut it back apart at the seam. I adjusted the jam nut down and tightened up the lock nut and with the same weight, it opens a bit farther. I'll play around with it and let you know what I find.
 
Cannibal

Cannibal

Tasty Human
Location
Summit Lake, WA
Well, I taped it back together and gave it a test. Before I adjusted the tension, I could fill up the inlet and it would not leak out the back, same with the back, I could fill it up and it woud not leak out the front. I didn't let it set that long though.

After my 'modification' it now leaks a very little bit when I fill the back. When I fill the front though, I can not get more than 1/2" in the inlet before it starts letting water out the back. I decided to fill the back and tape it shut then turn it on it's side to make sure gravity was not playing a factor in the sealing of the valve. When I did so, I got a very minor amount of leakage, but not much.

I think I'll take it back apart and put the valve in between where it came and where I have it and see if I get better results.
 

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Cannibal

Cannibal

Tasty Human
Location
Summit Lake, WA
Well, I did a bit more adjusting, but it never really got what I'd call great. I put it back to the factory setting and it worked the best there. I filled the inlet up and found that it does leak a little out the back, so no need to add a tube for testing. Inverted and filled I do get a few drips a minute. Guess it's not perfect. The price was right at around $20, but probably not the best for those who let their ski float.

The valve is a disc and it looks and feels like rubber. Since it's just made for sump pumps I can't imagine it would be Viton or Nitrile.

It seems to be pretty well made and the way it seats square, I can't imagine a tail stand would blow it out.

I'll probably run it, but don't hold your breath for an update. My ski is probably 2 months from hitting the water, if I'm lucky.

Steve
 
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