curt248
01 superjet 94 fx1 97 xp
- Location
- Chicago IL
***
It looks pretty sweet for a slight mod to the stock turn plate. It mocked up my bars in that position and it seems like the throttle would hit the pad and not allow the bar to turn to the left.
Has anyone tried this? What has to be modified to allow the bars to turn without hitting the throttle? It looks like he may have turned his throttle around so that it is a thumb throttle. Does this work ok?
Does anyone know what is on the bottom of the plate (I thought he just tapped in the screw holes)? It looks like some sort of rivit assembly. There certainly isn't a lot of room for clearance under the turn plate.
Written by beachjunkey Tuesday, 04 December 2007 12:32 Purpose: The goal is to move the rider's center of gravity further in to match the center of gravity of the ski. Straight bars (versus "bent" zero-degree bars) also give the feeling of quicker steering. There are also $200 aftermarket solutions that will save you from having to drill and cut if you'd rather save yourself an hour...
Recommended for: highly recommended for all standups, all riding styles
Observations: I feel like I steer more with my arms instead of my shoulders/body with straight bars. They are much easier to pop fast for maximum throw while sustaining a natural equilibrium with your ski. Not only do straight bars sit further away from your gut but they also put your outside grip further forward allowing your body to naturally lean forward into your turns/rolls.
Not to be confused with: Bars that sit further back from the pivot point, such as stock and 0deg bars, will put the inside grip closer into your gut causing your whole body to have to sway out of the way or lean further back. This counter balances your weight in hard turns and is noticeably slower than a quick pop of the bars. These bent UMI-style bars also cause the rider to have to position his body further back.
Supplies: 1/4" drill bit, M8x1.25 tap, oval file and/or die grinder, blue loctite, cutting tools, 7/8" thickazz aluminum tube: mcmaster part# 1658T53
Time: 30-60min
Process: Moved bars 3.5" forward and faster/easier steering response. The picture pretty much speaks for itself. This can also be done on aftermarket umi-style turn plates. The turn plate does not have to be removed from the ski to do this mod.
Last Updated on Monday, 10 December 2007 16:04
It looks pretty sweet for a slight mod to the stock turn plate. It mocked up my bars in that position and it seems like the throttle would hit the pad and not allow the bar to turn to the left.
Has anyone tried this? What has to be modified to allow the bars to turn without hitting the throttle? It looks like he may have turned his throttle around so that it is a thumb throttle. Does this work ok?
Does anyone know what is on the bottom of the plate (I thought he just tapped in the screw holes)? It looks like some sort of rivit assembly. There certainly isn't a lot of room for clearance under the turn plate.
Written by beachjunkey Tuesday, 04 December 2007 12:32 Purpose: The goal is to move the rider's center of gravity further in to match the center of gravity of the ski. Straight bars (versus "bent" zero-degree bars) also give the feeling of quicker steering. There are also $200 aftermarket solutions that will save you from having to drill and cut if you'd rather save yourself an hour...
Recommended for: highly recommended for all standups, all riding styles
Observations: I feel like I steer more with my arms instead of my shoulders/body with straight bars. They are much easier to pop fast for maximum throw while sustaining a natural equilibrium with your ski. Not only do straight bars sit further away from your gut but they also put your outside grip further forward allowing your body to naturally lean forward into your turns/rolls.
Not to be confused with: Bars that sit further back from the pivot point, such as stock and 0deg bars, will put the inside grip closer into your gut causing your whole body to have to sway out of the way or lean further back. This counter balances your weight in hard turns and is noticeably slower than a quick pop of the bars. These bent UMI-style bars also cause the rider to have to position his body further back.
Supplies: 1/4" drill bit, M8x1.25 tap, oval file and/or die grinder, blue loctite, cutting tools, 7/8" thickazz aluminum tube: mcmaster part# 1658T53
Time: 30-60min
Process: Moved bars 3.5" forward and faster/easier steering response. The picture pretty much speaks for itself. This can also be done on aftermarket umi-style turn plates. The turn plate does not have to be removed from the ski to do this mod.
Last Updated on Monday, 10 December 2007 16:04
