And the sh$#% storm continues....

[ATS_Aaron]

Things had been going pretty well for my 8mm Lamey engine....

I was running a Vilder ignition with a lightened stock flywheel. The Vilder died as Vilder's tend to do. Nothing dramatic, never ran bad. I shut if off in the middle of the lake one day to chat with my friends and it never restarted.

So I decided to switch back to the Advent I was running last year. I had bought the special TBM flywheel to use with it too. I checked the stickers on the Advent and found out I had the D14 map set in it.

I called Kyle and Lamey and asked what the recommended timing curve was for my engine. He said to run 28 degree up to 5000 rpm and then retard it 3 degrees per 1000rpm and that a 9000 rpm rev limit was fine.

Well Advent curve Y-701-41 inside the Advent was pretty close. It ran 24 degrees up to 5000 rpm and then retarded 3 degrees per 1000. The map quit retarding at 8000, so I set the rev limit to 8000.

In order to get my 28 degrees I advanced the stator 4 degrees. I checked and verified everything was right in the ski with a timing light and reassembled it.

FINALLY I was going to get to ride this ski will all the new parts I had bought for it LAST YEAR.

The good news is that it made great power...way too much power for my impeller actually. But it was still fun. A new Hooker impeller is on it's way.

Then Tuesday it failed to start when I wanted to slide it on the trailer. It backfired and blew the epoxy out of the cases. Yep AGAIN. Lamey makes a reinforcement plate, but it only cover's 1/3 of the epoxy.

Bun makes a better design. Visible at the bottom of this page: http://www.jetwave.jp/pdf/p0007.pdf

At thins point I thought all I had to do was pull my engine, glue the epoxy piece back in, and manufacture myself a couple of new plates to hold the epoxy in place.

So I got the motor pulled and started to disassemble it. That's when I found the TBM flywheel was loose. After I got it off I found the hub had cracked. This is a flywheel with LESS than 6 hours of run time on it :-(

The key way was loose and has basically destroyed the snout of my crankshaft :-(

At this point it's not anyone's fault, It's just a question of what I plan to do to get this thing back in the water as fast as possible.

Bummed,

Aaron

 

[The Penguin]

jeesh - if it were'nt for bad luck - you'd have none at all.

sorry to hear it.

 

[#ZERO]

Ouch!!!.... That was an expensive six hours. :bigeyes:

Team Scream makes a real nice looking reinforcement plate that fits inside the casting webs and uses the 64X case bolts.

Did the epoxy blow out on the exhaust side of the case?

 

[ATS_Aaron]

The reinforcement plate held in the center epoxy pieces. Both little side pieces blew out of the #1 cylinder.

I just called Crankworks and it's 5 week wait (at least) for them to fix my front crank web. I'm going to have Scott see if he can weld up the hole some for me. With a new key it's not THAT loose. I think with the stock flywheel it will be OK for a while. I may as well try this ghetto fix since since it's not going to make things any worse.

Aaron

Aaron

 

[#ZERO]

The crank snout doesn't look that bad from the picture but it appears kind of toasty inside. Maybe you can remove the aluminum debris and lap a stock flywheel on there with some success.


BTW why is your charge coil missing on the stator?

 

[MADMAT]

Sucks man....I have said for years that I will never own another set of epoxied ported cases. No way no how.

 

[ATS_Aaron]

BTW why is your charge coil missing on the stator?

It's missing the "exciter" coil. It has the charging coil. The exciter coil generates the ~200-300 volts for the CDI to charge the coil with. The Advent T3 has it's own DC to DC converter built in (because it charges the coil at nearly 400 volts) so it doesn't use the exciter coil. So I got rid of it to save weight. haha. Actually it got trashed when my Bendix exploded two years ago. I found out I didn't need it so I never replaced it.

Aaron

 

[#ZERO]

Interesting I thought the Advent T-3 CDI's could only work with the 62T stators. :thinking:

Yamaha calls that coil the charge coil on the parts diagram and the lightning coil actually does the charging for the battery through the rectifier.

 

[WB800BLASTER]

man u have bad luck.

i'm with #.0, clean it up slap a stock one on and go ride. better yet try one of his light ones and be done with it.

 

[BruceSki]

bummer dude... hope your luck turns around some.

 

[ATS_Aaron]

Interesting I thought the Advent T-3 CDI's could only work with the 62T stators. :thinking:

Yamaha calls that coil the charge coil on the parts diagram and the lightning coil actually does the charging for the battery through the rectifier.

Sorry, I got my terminology off. The "Lighting" coil does charge the battery and the "Charging" coil charges the CDI. This is a 62T stator btw...or at least what's left of one.

So as the pictures show we made some small plates to put tension on the epoxy parts. That should keep it together. I'm going to retard the timing back to about 24 degrees and just live with it for now.

The lightened stock flywheel is going back on. We welded a new key in place. It didn't go near as clean as I had hoped, but after some work with a file I got the flywheel to slip on nicely (and actually feel tight).

Good luck to me...

Aaron

 

[#ZERO]

I noticed that was a 62T stator but was wonder why it had to be used with the Advent since the pulser coils are the same; always thought it had something to do with the beefed up charge coil.

I think they used a few containers of Devcon aluminum on those cases.

If you ever need to remove that Devcon aluminum epoxy just bake the case bottom in the oven for about 20~30 minutes and that stuff just about falls off.

Also if a leak develops again I'd go with a full bottom reinforcement plate from Chucky.

Good luck and hope it works out well. :fingersx:

 

[wsuwrhr]

Bud,

The cases you have are junk, I have explained why this keeps happening. The last time on the phone I explained to you that with what is wrong with your cases, I was convinced nothing you can do will prevent the epoxy from blowing out. Your ignition backfiring is not helping a thing either.

We should have never used those cases you bought. I should have held firm when I first saw them.

I want to help, but you have have got to want to fix it the right way.
Throw away your ignitions and either run a factory charging ignition or run an MSD. Make sure the flywheel seats on the taper and isn't relying on the key to stay put. Please, do up another case, or better yet, take me up on the offer on the billet case and be done. Summer is coming, we can still get this done in time for it.

For everyone else, the epoxy isn't really the issue, it has been done this way for years. Properly cared for this mod lasts just fine.

Brian

 

[Don 79 TA]

WOW
TBM was telling me how strong their flywheels are
have you contacted them? it is possible that there was a defect in material
as far as ignition setups go, i've done fairly well with the MSD, aluminum flywheel, raider coil,
not to shabby, i'd assume TL or an Advent may help, but not sure if the reliability and cost warrant it?

 

[ATS_Aaron]

At this point it's not anyone's fault, It's just a question of what I plan to do to get this thing back in the water as fast as possible.

Sorry Brian. I should have said it's not anyone's fault but my own.

The deal on the cases certainly sucks. They are nice $$$ Team Scream ported/epoxied cases. The guy I bought them from said they had been welded on near the starter...he neglected to mention that they were WARPED. Brain and Lamey went ahead and used them....but we figured out later that when they get bolted together that they twist and pop the epoxy parts out...kind of like getting ice cubes out of the ice tray.

Brian's reinforcement piece works GREAT on the center pieces of Epoxy. I sealed the epoxy pieces back up with case sealer and put the plate on over them. Now I have two more plates like shown in the above photos that will hold the other 4 pieces of epoxy in. They are superglued in place (I tested 3 different kinds of adhesive yesterday and superglue held the best to the epoxy. There is case sealer at the very bottom just in case the superglue lets go and the epoxy pieces shift a tiny bit. At this point I really have it double covered - the superglue should be fine by itself, and the case sealer + the reinforcement plates should be fine by themselves too. I've got both so I should be OK.

BTW it fired up about 3 hours ago. No lake until tomorrow though.

The good news is that I found (and replaced) two broken motor mounts. I also had to fix the 100,000th crack on my R&D wet pipe.

Aaron

 

[ATS_Aaron]

WOW
TBM was telling me how strong their flywheels are
have you contacted them? it is possible that there was a defect in material
as far as ignition setups go, i've done fairly well with the MSD, aluminum flywheel, raider coil,
not to shabby, i'd assume TL or an Advent may help, but not sure if the reliability and cost warrant it?

MSD flywheels are 2x as thick in the hub area where this POS TBM let go. I called TBM today but they have not called me back yet. I am out of warranty (I think it's only 6 months) but Brian at Lamey could vouch for me that the engine was out of the ski at Lamey all of August and wasn't installed until back in my ski until April.

The Advent ignitions are nice, but be sure to verify 1) what timign curve it is set to and 2) that it is sync'd up with the flywheel/stator using a timing light.

My Team Scream motor was perfectly happy running 32 degrees of advance!! But e Lamey would run backwards if you tried to give it that much advance. I thought I have flywheel problems, cranks snout problems, all kinds of issues but it turned out that the Advent was just set on "Crazy."

Right now I have it set to about 25 degrees total advance. It's a little angry at start up but not like it was at 28 degrees. I'll send the Advent back in and have it reprogrammed to have some retard below 1500 rpm for easier starts (or I will buy a T4 and program it myself, or we'll get further along on our own CDI project (shhh don't tell)).

Aaron

 

[Big Kahuna]

1. If the flywheel is not installed correctly and/or comes loose, the woble can crack the hub.

2. If these cases are known to be bad then why keep ghetto rigging them knowing that you will problably have problems again.

 

[Freakrider]

let us know if she holds together this weekend...good luck bro...

 

[skinnyman]

Superglue?????? on a expensive Lamey Good Luck with that

 

[ger87410]

Meh. Duck tape it.

And don't forget to splice!!! :bigok: