aluminum exhaust pipe replacement options

[sharkcus]

I searched around and couldn't find any threads relating to this. It was kind of difficult to come up with keywords. Anyway....
My tray is cut open for reasons. The old exhaust pipe was crushed (bad) from a previous owner for foothold fitment reasons. I know I can buy a drop in replacement, but I still plan to have the same holds and will need to either lower it at the firewall or do something else.

The exit piece and through-firewall piece are fine. What is stopping me from replacing the bent part with a piece of silicone t-bolted on either end? I can't find any examples of people doing this, but to me it seems like a no-brainer.

<firewall>--<aluminum_pipe>--<~1ft silicone>--<original aluminum through-hull exit>

Another option would be to just run a long piece of silicone tube right to the firewall with a 6" aluminum tube glassed in through-firewall.
Either option would give me enough flexibility to be able to fit the footholds in without crushing anything. A solid tbolt connection isn't going to come loose and I've never seen a nice silicone hose blow or delaminate that far away from hot exhaust.

 

[Sanoman]

My first thought would be no.lt seems like a really good idea,but,if it fails what happens? lf anything use oetiker clamps.They won't slip off (2 on each end).
But you have the opportunity right now to fix (correctly) it by welding a section in or taking it out and replacing one that will work with your footholds.You can't really ride right now,so you have time.

IMHO

 

[Quinc]

order a length of 2.5" aluminum tubing from amazon, ebay or local exhaust shop?

 

[Jr.]

Buy a length of alum tube, take it to an exhaust shop for an S bend to clearance the foot holds.
Using a silicone splice is a mistake. Foolish to complicate something, as a possible failure point.

 

[RippinRob]

IMO I don't want to cut my tray open again for as long as possible. If something happens to either the connections or your house. vibrations, rubbing, foam or water on it are all unknowns vs something that's been ran for decades. Your not really saving any significant weight/money. I don't really see an upside to it.

 

[sharkcus]

I know I asked opinions and I appreciate it. Just still trying to wrap my head around what a failure would look like on a 1ft section of silicone. It's not going to get hot and melt, it's way too far back for that. My rip hull has rubber all the way from waterbox to exh exit. Chances are I'll probably end up using a piece of aluminum. I don't know though.... as long as I have a bead around it and decent clamps, I can't imagine what kind of failure could possibly happen back there in a silicone tube. I mean the from the waterbox to aluminum coupler it's all silicone. I've had OLD rubber exhaust hoses collapse/delaminate the exhaust pipe exit on skis, but that was due to overheating.

 

[iQRTurbo]

XScream hulls have rubber water lines clamped between segments of aluminum through transom and bulkhead. Those are buried under tray and non serviceable.

I’m with you, I don’t see a problem with the silicone and t bolt clamp. We have all had traditional hose/gear clamps fail so I wouldn’t go that route. Like someone mentioned above, an oitiker clamp is pretty fool proof long term connection.

 

[schicks]

Lowering the exhaust tube at bulkhead isnt that much work once the tray is open. Run a wr3 hose from water box to exhaust tube. Easy.