Hi guys. Got my ski 2 seasons ago been riding it as is and it’s performing just fine I did some fine tuning of the carbs and small aesthetic stuff and added some pole bracket reinforcement and re wired the bilge all basic stuff so it works properly. Now I’m getting ready to get my hands dirty with a defoam and fix and I figure while I’m in there I can run another line through for a potential trim or another water inlet for cooling so I have a question as far as cooling goes. I have a whole plan for the defoam and refoam so I’m not worried about that just the cooling. Basically I bought the ski as is as far as cooling goes but just need help understanding how and if it’s good the way it is. I ride here in New York so water temps never really get to warm. Usually mid 70’s at best. Anyway i need help understanding if the current cooling route is correct or good or what. It appears I have 1 inlet from the pump and 2 pissers that come straight from the head. At idle one is at full flow and the other sputters once I tap the throttle in the slightest both are flowing steady strong streams. I see that the inlet on the exhaust chamber is blocked where it would normally go from the head to the exhaust chamber but instead it goes straight to the pisser. Is that correct? I have looked up and done tons of research looking for how it is factory and dual cooling and it doesn’t seem to match up to any. Need some help understanding if it’s correct. I’m kind of a noob with the cooling routes though. Any help is appreciated Thankyou!
96 rn super jet cooling route help needed!!
- Thread starter Afed24
- Start date
- Location
- California
It looks like your engine is completely stock and that they might have made it dual cooling. There is absolutely no good reason for this on your stock engine and it is probably running way too cold.
If it were mine I would go back to the stock routing and get rid of that second cooling line until you add a head and pipe in the future.
The stock routing is from the cooling line on the intake side of the hull into the lower fitting on the pipe. Then from the rear head fitting it should go down to the pipe where yours has the braided hose coming from the carb side of the hull. Finally the one from the front of the head is supposed to be a small little hose going to the front of the pipe where yours has been capped just to get the air out of the head and a little water into the pipe.
The main problem with yours now is that second cooling line is just dumping a ton of water into the pipe which will only hurt performance.
The other issue is it looks like they got rid of the bilge system and used it as a cooling line so all you have is the bilge pump and not the automatic siphon system that is a good backup. On your ski it looks like they used the bilge line to connect to the lower part of the pipe which would normally come from the carb side of the hull.
Few other things...
It also looks like you are missing the carb brace to the head.
Your fuel tank vent is missing the water seperator and could easily get water into your fuel tank the way it is just cut short.
Make sure your plug caps are not resistor caps since they are not stock. You don't want to run resistor plugs and resistor caps.
Hood seal looks trashed.
If it were mine I would go back to the stock routing and get rid of that second cooling line until you add a head and pipe in the future.
The stock routing is from the cooling line on the intake side of the hull into the lower fitting on the pipe. Then from the rear head fitting it should go down to the pipe where yours has the braided hose coming from the carb side of the hull. Finally the one from the front of the head is supposed to be a small little hose going to the front of the pipe where yours has been capped just to get the air out of the head and a little water into the pipe.
The main problem with yours now is that second cooling line is just dumping a ton of water into the pipe which will only hurt performance.
The other issue is it looks like they got rid of the bilge system and used it as a cooling line so all you have is the bilge pump and not the automatic siphon system that is a good backup. On your ski it looks like they used the bilge line to connect to the lower part of the pipe which would normally come from the carb side of the hull.
Few other things...
It also looks like you are missing the carb brace to the head.
Your fuel tank vent is missing the water seperator and could easily get water into your fuel tank the way it is just cut short.
Make sure your plug caps are not resistor caps since they are not stock. You don't want to run resistor plugs and resistor caps.
Hood seal looks trashed.
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Ahhhh great. I appreciate your very in depth description and help it makes way more sense now and that’s exactly what I was looking for. Also I’m a bit confused about the resistor plugs and caps and wired. What is a resistor plug and not a resistor plug and how do I find out if one is or not? Also my apologies these pics were from when the ski was first purchased by me. Since then I have added back the stock bilge siphone system and it was there before but it was rigged up a weird way and I fixed it. Also I have since completely reworked the fiberglass and everything around the hood seal and replaced the seal with a brand new one so that’s all good now also. Just looking for more info on the plug resistor caps and what not. I truly appreciate your answer mike
- Location
- California
Can you get a new picture of the plumbing for us, what is the water inlet and outlets?
So the electrical system needs a resistor on the spark plug circuit to prevent electronic interference.
With the factory caps there is no resistor in the caps so the plug has the resistor BR8HS spark plugs the "R" is resistor.
If you use a resistor cap and a resistor plug it is bad because now you have doubled the resistance and it is hard on the ignition system.
Since yours has aftermarket caps you should see if they are resistor or non-resistor. If they are resistor caps then you can just keep them and run non resistor plugs like B8HS.
So the electrical system needs a resistor on the spark plug circuit to prevent electronic interference.
With the factory caps there is no resistor in the caps so the plug has the resistor BR8HS spark plugs the "R" is resistor.
If you use a resistor cap and a resistor plug it is bad because now you have doubled the resistance and it is hard on the ignition system.
Since yours has aftermarket caps you should see if they are resistor or non-resistor. If they are resistor caps then you can just keep them and run non resistor plugs like B8HS.
Yes I actually was out there taking fresh pictures of the entire system for you now. I have since wrapped the ski that’s why it’s yellow around the hood seal but besides that. Okay I took a pic of the spark plugs I was gonna post also they are br8hs. How can I find out if the plug wires are resistor or not? And now from looking at the water routing it appears there is a 2nd intake from the pump. With that in mind what is the proper routing? Here are fresh pics. I was going to run b pipe and stuff anyway so if it is correct the way it is I will just get the pipe this season instead of reverting back to stock. Both of the water inlets appear to go in at the ex manifold. It appears both inlets from the exhaust manifold and both outlets come out of the head.
Also the air water separator, does that go on the tank vent where it has the small check valve on the top right of the tank? And please excuse how dirty it is haven’t had a chance to clean it and get all the sanding dust out of the engine area since it’s winter now. Thankyou in advance this is a huge help!
Attachments
- Location
- California
I wouldn’t worry about it if you are going to get the factory pipe as you will run both those inlet hoses into the factory pipe manifold. You have what is known as dual cooling since you have two pressure feed lines coming from your pump.
If you keep the stock pipe I would only use the braided hose and keep it connected as is.
The black hose from the pump should be capped and not used since the way it is it’s just dumping a lot of unnecessary water directly into the pipe which will only hurt performance. I would then cap off the rear hose on the head and plumb the front head fitting into the pipe where the black hose is now connected and tee it to the pisser out the side of the ski also. You only want enough water going into the pipe to stop the rubber hoses from melting, any more than that and it hurts performance. The way yours is now it’s dumping a ton of water directly from the pump into the pipe.
Apparently the carb brace isn’t really necessary on these.
If you keep the stock pipe I would only use the braided hose and keep it connected as is.
The black hose from the pump should be capped and not used since the way it is it’s just dumping a lot of unnecessary water directly into the pipe which will only hurt performance. I would then cap off the rear hose on the head and plumb the front head fitting into the pipe where the black hose is now connected and tee it to the pisser out the side of the ski also. You only want enough water going into the pipe to stop the rubber hoses from melting, any more than that and it hurts performance. The way yours is now it’s dumping a ton of water directly from the pump into the pipe.
Apparently the carb brace isn’t really necessary on these.
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john zigler
Vendor Account
- Location
- wisconsin
In your area, and water temps there is no reason for dual cooling, especially on a stock engine. Put everything back to stock. The line that goes out from the rear of the head, down to feed the pipe is the line you can put a T into for a pisser. The line out of the front of the head should be 1/8" and goes to the small fitting that is capped on your pipe. This is just a bleed, but should still be hooked up.
great yes that makes way more sense, thankyou for the great in depth response and the drawing thats a huge help, if its that easy i'll just return to stock for now. whats the best way to cap off the pieces that need to be capped? like how should i cap it at the pump? how should i cap it at the head? and how should i cap it where the 2nd line enters the engine at the manifold? Also i am aware that im missing 1 mount base bolt unfortunately the previous owner stripped it out and im not sure where to go from here? and if the carb mounts arent necassary ill leave it off but if its recommended i would prefer to do it.
also, is there a way for me to tell if my spark plug wires are resistor wires or not? from everything i looked up they appear to be kawasaki ones? or at least used on kawasakis in some applications but can also be used on yamaha 650,701s. when i looked it up all i found was them on 90's kawasaki 750's.
also john, thankyou for the response that what i figured with these water temps, appreciate the response.
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after reading both ur posts im slightly confused about returning the system to stock, if i do can i cap off the line on the rear of the head or no? if i dont where do i run it to? does it go to where the current 2nd inlet hose is now? or should the current factory side intake hose go to the fitting by the engine mount where the 2nd (added) intake hose goes then the one on the back of the head goes where the current factory intake is?
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yes unfortunately it was missing from the previous owner who stripped it. whats the best way for me to fix this? thanks
john zigler
Vendor Account
- Location
- wisconsin
1st, your plug caps do appear to be from a Kawasaki. These are good caps, and you can run resistor plugs with these.
On your cooling system.....
Back at the jet pump, I would take off the added line, and brass 90 degree fitting. Put a brass pipe plug in the hole here to plug. Your stock feed line is fine, and appears to be correct in the hull as well.
The blue line at the rear of your head is the one used to feed the pipe. It currently looks like it goes overboard to a pisser. Take this, cut it to length and put it on the fitting at the back of the pipe where your added 2nd line comes in. (Clear hose with white webbing.)
The 2nd hose off the top of your head in the front, goes to the pipe chamber (Small capped fitting on the front of the large pipe box). Hopefully you can still use the correct 1/8" hose here.
On your cooling system.....
Back at the jet pump, I would take off the added line, and brass 90 degree fitting. Put a brass pipe plug in the hole here to plug. Your stock feed line is fine, and appears to be correct in the hull as well.
The blue line at the rear of your head is the one used to feed the pipe. It currently looks like it goes overboard to a pisser. Take this, cut it to length and put it on the fitting at the back of the pipe where your added 2nd line comes in. (Clear hose with white webbing.)
The 2nd hose off the top of your head in the front, goes to the pipe chamber (Small capped fitting on the front of the large pipe box). Hopefully you can still use the correct 1/8" hose here.
great as i do currently have resistor plugs on here.
for cooling okay plugging that seems easy enough and ill plug the part i detach that goes through the tray as well. so the fitting that the added cooling line goes to (the braided one with orange fluid in it) is the the correct spot i want to attach the line from the rear of the head? just confused now because both of the lines that come into the engine area are that clear braided looking hose and they both attach to the exhaust similarly. i just dont want to get it backwards and mess something up. thankyou. sorry for my stupidity lol
john zigler
Vendor Account
- Location
- wisconsin
Yes, sorry I forgot to mention to cap off the extra cooling line coming through the hull on each end.
Below is the pic of the line coming in where you need to feed the pipe from the head. The hose goes to the manifold right by the "flush" Screw.
Below is the pic of the line coming in where you need to feed the pipe from the head. The hose goes to the manifold right by the "flush" Screw.
Attachments
okay so then i should extend that current hose and make it go to the other fitting where the other clear hose goes and that should be the one intake for cooling right?
john zigler
Vendor Account
- Location
- wisconsin
After looking closer, it "appears" this hose comes from your stock, original cooling in from the pump, so if that is true, then yes, this needs to continue to be your feed in. The other one then can be removed and capped.
ok so then i can run the line from the rear of the head to the fitting on the exhaust manifold by the engine mount, where the clear hose with orange fluid is connected and also "T" it to a pisser? and leave the stock intake cooling hose in the picture below where it is presently connected?