440/ 750--650 pumped Flatdeck conversion

Started this about a week ago.....

I have everything i need with exception of a 750 Limited factory pipe ( FOUND ONE))


The plan is to





HULL
  • Flat Deck a Js hull, getting rid of the silly small tray
  • Cut out the bottom of a 650SX and Marry it to the Js Hull
  • Alter Bulkhead for sx style bearing
  • Enlarge the strakes to a more modern design
  • Fix existing holes in hull
  • Alter engine compartment to accept a 750 Limited pipe
  • Install a set of Tubbies ( surfjetlouie's) rip
ENGINE

  • 92 750 SX ---stock bore
  • port and intake work
  • 650 Jetnetics Aluminum Flywheel with 650 reg in 550 E-Box
  • WestcoastHead 28 domes
  • Dual SBn 44's
  • FACTORY PIE ( LOOKING)
  • Mariner 550 waterbox altered with larger in and outlets
  • Fueltank----not there yet
Driveline

  • 550sx Driveshaft
  • 650 blueprinted pump
  • TBM stuffer
  • Prop debateable----12-17 Large hub or a tad taller?
  • C.A.T.S--- X2 noz
Credit goes to Bruce and Fox for doing all the hard work before me!
 

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a few more pics
 

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Epoxy is drying slow due to the weather...... not getting much done.

centered the driveshaft and glued up the bulkhead.

Pump , intake and rideplate look huge compaired to the 550's stock setup.
I'm starting to get excited about the finish and think about Paint .


I'm thinking with the Aluminum pole, Top and Bottom gloss black with White turf includeing the rails will be the ticket.


I PICKED UP A PIPE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ,,, now i just need to find new screws
 

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Installed a scupper using a Homedepot one-way valve<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
· 2" rear exhaust<o:p></o:p>
· 2 cooling lines<o:p></o:p>
· C.A.T.S tube<o:p></o:p>
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Used aluminum angle as hull support, wasn't sure what kind of stress the flat deck would create and didn't want to take a chance.<o:p></o:p>
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Started the foam, I’ll finish it after I cut into the hull for pipe fitment. <o:p></o:p>
I’m sure I’ll have to pour more to blend everything in for smooth lines. <o:p></o:p>
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The biggest issue i ran into was not wearing gloves while doing 4 small pours of foam. My hands are a mess.<o:p></o:p>
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i should have the pipe in my hands sometime next week and then a bit more cutting.<o:p></o:p>
 

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I mentioned I was putting in a C.A.T.S setup... While laying glass i formed a kick tale shape which I’m very happy with. It covers the nozzle cutout and adds a nice lift. WIN--WIN....
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My pipe showed today and I about had a panic attach.!.. The factory limited pipe is HUGE! I knew it was large but once set in that little hull OMG.... however, IT WILL WORK!!!!!!!!!!<o:p></o:p>
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I included pics of everything below.<o:p></o:p>
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I mocked it up in another hull and cut pieces of the rail out to see what was needed for clearance.<o:p></o:p>
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Then cut the left side of the hull out from the bond line up. This is where it gets good. Everything fits nice and tight without getting into the bond line. !!!!!!!!!!! <o:p></o:p>
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This is what I did. <o:p></o:p>
I cut the hull sides at the bond line from the front to back of the compartment, only doing a vertical cut on the back.<o:p></o:p>
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This allowed me to taper the opening and keeping the body lines straight. I set everything in place with hot glue which worked perfectly.<o:p></o:p>
Sides had to be slightly twisted a bit more vertically in the back to match the hood elevation. Everything went smoother than expected. <o:p></o:p>
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Obviously the hood had to be cut in half, but the silver lining is my hand pole will never run again.<o:p></o:p>
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:1244:test hull 2.jpgtest hull 3.jpgcut hull 2.jpgbond line.jpgtest hull 1.jpgcut hull 1.jpg
 
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Cold weather has the epoxy drying slow..

Everything on the hull minus the hood is glassed and drying.
Surfjet Louie sponsons installed

I hot glued wood braces on the hood in order to hold the shape for glassing. (Worked like a charm)

I’m now kicking around the idea of lowering the hand pole mount 3".
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i'm not sure what kind of difference it would make.
 

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quick update....<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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Foot strap mounts are epoxied and glassed in and everything is ready for primer...<o:p></o:p>
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I picked up an amazing Mitsubishi Burnt Orange color, that with black turf should look sick!<o:p></o:p>


talking with T3racing (Tony) and working on getting more out of the motor.
 

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UPDATe

I picked up a Harbor freight gravity feed paint gun. ( $15.00)....What a joy to spray with compared to a regular cup style, Fraction of the air needed with only minimal overspray and the fastest cleanup..... I can't say enough good about it...

Everything is painted and the pole mounted. steer cable went in without even a grunt... i must have some good carma kicking around!

I had to mock the engine and pipe up just to get a look at the shoehorn fit. The hood fits on perfect.
Now i have to get the motor finished and back together along with the C.A.T.S figured out.
 

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Ran into a few Hiccups’... my front cylinder wouldn't seal and my squish turned out to be .0635
So now the head is off to be decked.020. The non sealing issue turned out to be a loose sleeve.

I was able to tap it back in place and pin it at the very base of the sleeve, shouldn't be an issue.

While I’m down with another delay I decided to get the bugs worked out with the Trim system. All said and done, I’m very happy with it.

  • I used an X2 Nozzle setup which was a direct bolt up to the sx pump
  • Epoxied a heli-coil and a stainless Allen head bolt for a bit of adjustment if needed to the bottom of the nozzle.
  • I tried a few different steering cable ends and found extending a 96 xp swivel mounted to the bottom of the bracket worked the best.
Both the extended kaw ball mount and the extended xp mount produced close to the same tilt with the XP swivel giving a bit more.
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The problem was when the lever was pulled the Nozzle would go up and to the right quite a bit….
  • Solution was to bend a a bolt or in my case a intake manifold stud.
  • Thread the stud into the Nozzle, slide the XP mount on to the bolt and locknut the end. This solved the problem.
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The Tilt cable was a piece of cake…. Cut down an angled bracket, drilled hole for pump mount bolt and drilled and taped hole for cable adjuster. I ordered a set of MTB levers for 12.50 and used the adjuster from the extra lever to thread into the mount
Mounted the cable to the ball for the up trim…. I have pics of everything below .
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Total Cost<o:p></o:p>
X2 noz---------$20.00
Cable-----------$12.00 Stainless 3500 shimano MTB http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CA290A00-Jagwire+Slick+Brake+Wire.aspx
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Cable Sheath---$17.00 5mmx--8mmx 25’
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CA409B14Jagwire+Brake+Housing+Roll25.aspx
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Ship for cable----$ 5.00
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Levers -------$12.50 shipped ( ebay)
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Stainless bolt and coil and epoxy----$3.00
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Bracket for cable mount--- $1.50
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XP swivel----------$10.00
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The rest of the stuff you probably have
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TOTAL-------$81.00 beans :trink26:<o:p></o:p>
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Well.... I still have to put the finishing touches on the engine due to all the unforeseen details that pop up on a build BUT the turf is on.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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I thought I’d share because it was such a good feeling to push it out of the garage!!!!!!!<o:p></o:p>
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I’m still looking for some base carb specks for twin 44's... things are so tight i keep having the feeling changing jets is a 1/2 day project...
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As of today I think I am going to try 110-L ----135 H ---2.3NS --- and whatever spring gets me around 20 Pop-off
 

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Almost there....<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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I haven't been in a rush due to a few missing parts. ( Thanks IMPROS)<o:p></o:p>
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I was able to plumb everything up tonight and fire it up real quick.. WHAT A SOUND!<o:p></o:p>
DEEP, rumble.......<o:p></o:p>
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Putting the carbs on took 40 min, without fuel line. I think my 120L's are making things super rich off the bottom...... I’ll know when I get my PROP.<o:p></o:p>
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Once again Dave at IMPROS has me on his "quick" 30 day turnaround. I should have learned after the first time..... <o:p></o:p>
Anyone thinking about having work done based on his listed prices, call first. He shows some pricing differences if you buy a prop from him and he doesn't show others... 75.00 bones to cut back a prop for the 650 pump + double ship... find that on his site. CALL FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :grumble:<o:p></o:p>
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Here are a few engine pics<o:p></o:p>
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I’m in denial of the full cost; at this point I won’t add it all up for fear of my wife finding out!
as it stands now i can say "i really don't know".
I can say it was more than I set out to spend, but then every project i start cost more than I wanted to spend!

i should have it in the water soon. Still waiting on my prop ; THANKS IMPROS . (42 days from ship to return)
 
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