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Yes sir, updates are about to begin. Was trying to eek out a couple more rides before the weather tanked, but it's lookin pretty cool from here on out. Stay tuned.

Had the same problem with my Rickter, I ordered from McMaster, convenient and quick, not cheap. You can do better on price if you shop it. Here’s how I did it. Remember to get a larger tube for your trim, I don’t run trim so I used 3 equal sized tubes and just run a stock siphon with the 3rd...

Is there a difference in the magnets of the 64x/66e flywheels ? Orientation ? Number of N/S poles ? The flywheel, or, rotor assembly P/N for 64x is 64x-85550-00-00 and for 66e it is 66e-85550-00-00. Is the 64x/66e in the part number just a preface referencing that the 85550-00-00 rotor is used...

Here since 2007

@Jcary85

Are you referring to the flywheel cover bolt pattern?

It's even slicker when you take it apart, don't forget to slather it with dielectric silicone grease.

The only thing worse is when that combo of stainless stud, aluminum box and electricity is in a carbon hull ran in salt water. Now that you have it apart bore the holes in the box just enough to get a sleeve of thin wall plastic tubing on the stud and run a plastic washer at the bottom of the...

I used turpentine to get excess glue off of cleared visual carbon which is way more delicate than gel coat, you should be fine. On clear the harsher chemicals, acetone, lacquer thinner, certain “removers” can leave the clear hazy which means it’s affecting it, where the turpentine leaves it as...

If it’s Weldwood cement, I’ve used turpentine, soaking , gently agitating with a soft bristle brush. Gonna depend on how dried, ( how old ) it is.

Wax, with the demise of ATP you need to come out with a real WATERPROOF box for the guys running Zeel.

Actually it’s a 122 stock. A 140 is a massive improvement.

Yeah those 122 pumps are sleeping beasts! If they’re working leave em be, other than that , I wouldn’t waste much time on it. The juice isn’t worth the squeeze with 122’s…

Sorry for the thread derail Brapp. If your goal is to salvage/reuse pump, shaft and prop I’d try taking a 5/8 threaded SS rod coupler ( outside flats 7/8) , bore the ID so it just slips over the shaft splines. Round off one end of it and slide the other end into the prop and weld it permanent...

155’s are harder to unthread than 144’s, I gotta believe 160/165’s are even tougher yet. The rotational mass keeps going up on the same size thread! Do you have the Ti shaft ?

Watcon has a hardened extended one. A must have for 1 piece pumps.

I like your style. Is that a Maxxx 1 piece ti pump?

So Brapp, what’s the job? Bearing replacement? Why you kicking this house of cards down the rabbit hole?

Ooops! Then try the stocker…

If E has a B pipe on that FX with a 122 pump he’s probably just going hit the rev limiter with the stock CDI. For comparative trouble shooting I keep a rev limit delete CDI on hand, like the kind you get from Jet Ski Solutions, real handy for ruling out stator and ignition coil problems. Might...