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It would be interesting to see how bouyant the nose foam actually is. Any bored Northerners want to play with some foam and weights during the winter, to let us know?:biggthumpup:

It is not our site, it is 1/3 Paul's site that he helped start for the riders. It hurts no one. If the members of this site continue to want to deal with 24-7, then go to PWC2Day to do it. Simple, he has violated the trust of a founding member of this site Paul has not closed the door...

Now thats a funny post, I don't care what you say...:haha: :haha: :haha:

:bigeyes: ***speechless***

I agree on running the scuppers in the pump area, but I call :bs2: on saying a scupper will not work properly if mounted on an angle. You just cannot mount them in a conventional way, and they do not need to have internal valves.:rolleyes:

:sneaky: It is amazing how quickly the nose wants to come up, especially when you put 250 lbs on the back.:Banane01: :woot: :banghead: I would look at shortening a hull, but it definitely is not for everyone.

Either use two part epoxy glue, or 5200 is also common. I personally used two layers of 1208 biaxial and epoxy resin to seal them up. Wests is fine....

I personally like the Cyclones, as that is what I have on my square nose. I have put the WF footholds in my RN because they are supposed to be similar to the cyclones with more grab. I to not like the Rickters at all.... I have a size 12 foot.... My $.02

Make Kenny Keepers that keep the Engine from shifting forward and backwards!:woot: I'll take two....:biggthumpup:

Rotary switch from Blowsions, Riva or Broward Motor Sports.

The ski was originally black with a white hull, so the graphics kit is white on top, and black on the bottom.:biggthumpup: Thank you Mike, make sure you keep your head down and hurry back!:usa2:

The picture is while the resin is still curing and the carbon was not trimmed from the scupper tube yet, I only carboned around it. I left the scupper stick in the bilge about 1/2" so that I could get a good epoxy bond to it. I then cut it off to about 1/8" so running carbon in it would have...

I would recommend turning the ski upside down, and filling in the hood lip area completely. This not only strengthens it, it allows a nice smooth transition to run the glass/carbon up to the edge of the seal area. Looking good though.....

Picture of the reinforced bulkhead. The bottom of the hull and bulkhead really do not need to be reinforced, but I liked the look of the carbon so I deceided to go for it.:biggrin: It would be near impossible to get around all the little hull fittings (posts), intermediate housing and...

They are black decals on the white hull.:smile: How Paul does it, I do not know, but Paul installed the graphics for a very reasonable price, plus a little advertising space on the ski....:biggthumpup:

Some pictures of laying down the 1208 biaxial and carbon fiber on the sides of the bilge. The carbon fiber was laid down directly on top of a tacky fiberglass layer to make sure of a good chemical bond.

A photo under the nose after the carbon has been laid and the fuel filler cap cut out. Since this was a brand new hull that had never been in the water, I decided to keep the fuel filler tube in, but block it off. It will have a billet cap on it, and hold my registration and...

A few pics with the scupper in and hull ready to reinforce.

WOW, amazingly quick postage, excellent seller! Three :woot: :woot: :woot: for Tim. Thank you....

I guess it does, never really noticed much. Too bad I can't ride like Jason.:banghead: As far as I know, this is the only ski that has the graphics kit on it, as the person that the kit was developed for has not had them put on yet.:dunno: