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I have JB welded Yamaha choke knobs onto Seadoo choke cables before , the Seadoo choke is like a Tee handle and it's not replaceable.

If you have access to OEM that's the way I would go, I have used WSM before and I did have to replace one of those twice.

I use WSM pistons all the time, they work quite well in most applications .

Charge coil (Brown to Brown) 0.7 - 1.1 ohm Exciter coil (Red to Red) 266-398 ohm Pickup or Sense coil 396-594 ohm CDI output-orange/Black = should be 100 DCV or More. charge coil output-Red/Pur = should be 100 DCV or More. Trigger output-Blu/Green = 3.0DCV or More

Yep those fuel filters are all supposed to be replaced at regular intervals but they get replaced when the ski stops running , also most people don't realize that the pressure regulator on top of the fuel pickup assy is also a filter , that never gets replaced because most people don't know it...

I don't worry about fuel consumption, I put gas in and I ride when it needs more gas I do it again. The 98 and up XP's are all 951 powered , not the easiest ski to board in deep water but the handling is off the chart , the biggest issue with DI skis is when they do screw no one will work on...

Not in the traditional sense , it has regular pistons that are opposed and they are driven off of those two wavy plates, it appears to have fixed ports instead of valves , but that is not really shown very well on the vids .

A GS would be a good option , in that ski it should do about 50 mph , there are GS's and GSI's the GS is the better choice because it uses a common MPEM - electrical module , same one used in the GTI's and 97 and up GTS's , the GSI module on the other hand is basically one off and if it goes...

It's not perfection just yet but most of the issues are spray can issues, it had a couple of dark spots and one section that was lighter that almost looked like paint blush , being lacquer you just sand between coats and shoot another coat on top of it, lacquer does not build in layers like...

Actually the RFI is one of the most reliable skis out there, very few issues other than voltage regulators .

Yeah we don't have a Lowes or Home depot here, it's a really small town.

I have to say that am fairly impressed with this black Rustoleum primer , It goes on smooth and dries quickly to a really hard finish that sands out nicely, $13.00 a can $3.00 off of that if you buy two at Advance auto. Like I said earlier ignore the directions on the can and give it plenty of...

The XP is also going to be hard to reboard in rough water , you are correct the GSX series is a bigger ski , much easier to reboard in rough water , it still handles quite well it is slightly slower unless you go with the GSX 951 then it's a beast. The GSX series uses a lot of the same parts...

It's Duplicolor Shift green-purple , they also make a blue purple but I am betting the color shift is not as impressive, that blue purple would probably work well on Yamahas , it's Lacquer just like the Perfect match series colors but $17.95 for a much bigger can, I got a $10.00 rebate from...

I am impatient and had to see what it was going to look like so I decided to start spraying the mirrors and mirror bases , the green part is almost dead on the Seadoo metallic green like the hood that is on it now , the Purple is a medium to dark purple that works on this ski also. I don't...

This isn't really a paint reaction as such , This one is probably all on me , at any rate I sanded those spots down with 220 grit back down to the gray primer and I will dust them a few times with some black primer later today.

I have the black sanded , for the most part it turned out perfect but there are a few places that had issues. What you see in the photo is called crazing , it happens when the solvents in the paint or primer in this instance leech into the primer below it and attack it , it can be caused by the...

I am thinking that was on the total loss modules.

Gray sanded and resprayed with black primer .

Any WSM dealer should be able to fix you up.