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just hone it to .0055 piston clearance with prox cast pistons reseal, wash out or what you want to do with lowerend put in the 2.0 n&s go up 1 or 2 sizes on the main jet if you can, buy a msd enhancer it takes a little more risk out by gaining a couple of degrees of retard with the timing

there is a short sub harness from the switch connector to the cdi bullet plug in try also adding a ground wire to the electrical box to - on the battery if that works then you have a bad black ground wire that's run through the stator loom to the backside of stator plate i have seen one oem...

cast pistons will not tolerate mistakes one BIG positive with wiseco forged pistons

go to home depot and get 100% mineral spirits they sell it by the gallon can blue and silver can pour it full spin crank flip over to dump add lots of 2 stroke oil into the crank bearing main holes and on the rod bearings right after it dries out

you still didn't check piston to wall clearance... you cant make a decision until you check that

i didn't realize, but i did reply on your other post did you glass bead the piston skirts before reusing the pistons? if you didn't, i think you just continued the seizing till it got really bad and finally stuck it good you always have to remove any of the imbedded black death from piston...

clean out the cylinder wall with some acid, give a light hone with a precision rigid hone then re-measure the bore you always could use wiseco pistons also, they like looser bore clearance

years ago i did a few, cut them 1-1/4 in

this, and is after the fuse

plus im betting the piston to wall clearance was too tight for the mods done although he not believing it because it ran last season like that-don't rule out some of the things i pointed out ported engine will run different piston and egt's temperatures

jet the stinger down after the flow valve-use a 2.5 old needle valve stuck in the hose all it does is control the opening time-not much for flow when open

manifold/headpipe size needs to be at least 47.5-48mm minimum try using a little less water to the stinger to lower backpressure

i would up the torque on the girdle studs to 40 ft lbs use an msd enhancer just to get a slightly better timing curve-more retard up top make sure no less than .005 piston to wall for dual cooling with cast piston .006 with forged pistons try lowering the popoff 3-4 lbs with spring or next size...

might have been too lean with new porting piston to wall-always ask machinist or person in charge of boring to provide this critical info most common things that cause this are 1. airleaks 2. too lean-fuel supply issues 3. too much ignition timing 4. too high of compression ratio for octane of...

did you have the ada w/35cc head and dual cooling last year? what bore was the engine last year and now?

what was the piston to wall clearance when assembled the last time

just make sure you measure the headpipe size you want the later model 46.5-47mm for 701cc engine the early ones from factory pipe were 42.5mm you can always port out the early ones to fit the 701 late size

msd enhancer has both wires as whites-the same color where they plug in is dictated by the male or female plug end oem yamaha is 1 white and 1 white w/red (stator) to wire a msd enhancer correctly always plug in the start stop lanyard white wire 1st to the msd white it will match up male-female...

no problem with those green .020 base gaskets

you might put on a ada head for a liitle more compression after the msd enhancer