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no problem buddy! I dont know what exactly to expect when you get a coil new in package, like if it has wires attached or whatever. I sabotaged one stator to fix another.. Should be straight forward though.

I use 60/40 (tin/lead %) rosin core. I like .025" but the diameter is kinda preference.

Not at all. Crack the screws loose, I had to use an impact driver, they where pretty locked in. Unsolder old coil and solder in new one. Use red locktight on the screws.

I dont really have an answer for you, ive been waiting to hear what others thought. These are just idea so take them with a grain of salt. Maybe peek at the reeds. If one side was didn't seal properly i could see it affecting the burn because of the difference in delivery up the transfer ports...

Use something to pry upward going in and under the center of the seal. I use a foot long flat head that i cupped the end of just for pulling seal. Just be careful not to go to far under the seal as you will gouge the outer metal area. You can buy a seal puller at any local auto store too.

First you will need to remove the driveshaft. It presses out of the back side or the stator section once the pump cone is removed. Once the shaft is out you can pry the seals out of the front and press the other bearing out the back if it staying in the stator.

I think you need to open a beer and read the whole tread again. Many people have pointed you in the right direction but your attention span makes me feel like your a dog getting distracted by squirrels.

Those bores are toast man, all of your cross hatch pattern is gone. The crosshatch is what keeps a film of oil between your rings and cylinder wall, reducing wear and aiding in sealing. I can only imagine what your rings look like. Id ditch that 701 62t cylinder for a 61x and replace those 38cc...

Dudes, this thread is over 2 months old... If the OP isnt bumping it up or asking anymore questions, he has probably fixed it or lit it on fire.

Yep, looks like a bunch of good info that i dont have the attention span to read!

the unique designs are cool and all but i fking hate fake carbon fiber just for looks.

Ive used a vise and a 4 foot pipe wrench against my chest while pulling another pipe on the coupler towards me (counter clockwise). Use the ol blue wrench, just dont melt it off... or do.. lol

sounds like your good to go. May wanna have a secondary measure to kill the engine if your unsure about the kill switch.

He is asking how to apply his torque wrench when using a combination wrench. I torque impellers goodentight with the ol double wrench combo. . Be sure to use nickel anti seize and you will never have a problem removing it in the future. http://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0380 I use one of...

I hope you didnt take jetmaniac/blue off the list because of this 2xlr8 guy. Ive never heard of anyone being unsatisfied with jetmaniac/blue engine work until this guy.

Im pretty sure no one does that. Just tape up the pink wire in the ebox. As for the ss switch. The white plug has a red and brown wire. Red comes from the fused 12v in the ebox. Brown goes to the low amp side of the starter solenoid. The black plug has a white wire that goes to cdi and a...

no problem buddy

The second picture is right, yes you should see the seal with the exposed metal once installed.

In the left picture, flip the bottom seal and press it in first with the metal one going in last.

The first seal to be pressed in is the single lip with the spring side out (towards impeller) the second seal is the double lip with the metal facing out (towards impeller).