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The waters around Anchorage are extremely dangerous even for boats, not a good idea.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c241/MikeyB88/New/EC89FFB8-471E-45AB-A584-667E809FBA38-1659-0000010648679D1A_zps16a12ee5.jpg

Gomez did...

Electrical tape the heck out of it and put a vinyl sleeve over the areas where it can rub, use zipties.

They should be tite and smooth when spinning, no noise. I have seen good and bad SBT cranks, seems to be a roll of the dice.

Search the refoam threads for pics

http://www.x-h2o.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215856&d=1365218266

tray is less than 1/4 inch thick, perhaps you hit into the steering tube?

What hull?

9/15 hooker might be a better choice, and/or add some prop spacers...

Doesn't exactly work like that.

Feels like cavitation, air leak will also cause it

Try stock bore nozzle first

Its easy if your ebox has the three mounting holes in back, I used rubber spacers between the hull and box.

Wait till you figure out the best length, then pick your perfect setup.

And on that note for surf riding, lean way forward when attempting stabs....I ended up inverted corkscrew roll landing on the pole with my face, these are trained to flip!

No need to rip into the turf, my freak ebox mounts straight to the tray with some rubber spacers between for vibration. The bolt heads are flush to the turf, ez as pie to pull the ebox out if needed, the spacers retain the bolts when its out. ,

I really like these B1 oem riser bars with the sweep, its easier on my wrist that I broke 4 years ago, not going back to straight any time soon. Blowsion short plate, re-drilled to accept the bars, those long plates bend really easy, got 2 I don't use.

Longer for surf, shorter for flat. It was hurting my low back last time in surf at minus 2.

Yea, thats like the one I used, bolted straight to the firewall with some rubber spacers.