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to replace the crank seals you need to pull the motor out of the ski, remove front cover, flywheel & stator remove the rear pto (coupler) remove the bedplate from the motor turn the engine upside down & remove the case bolts split the crank case halfs replace the crank seals clean mating...

i put a Dales Jet sports pole on mine & haven't had a problem after 2 seasons. I broke my stocker the second time & rode it.

def need to up jet to 120 low, i think your pop off might be low, I go by Group K's web sight saying no less than 24 pop of is needed for good linear carburation. But he doesn't seem to get into extream mods with a/m pipes and all that. I have found to low pop off will cause over fueling...

i think your low jet is to small but I am no expert. I have a bunch of jets I can bring to R&R if you need them. I think your going to loose your top end that lean. I had a ski with great top end tuned and i thought I had the mid good but i settled down to cruise, siezed piston. there...

I think they modify the stock pipe by adding an inlet on the stinger & restricting the stock inlet to dry out the chamber. I've seen threads on it but never done it so I don't know if it works. If it is a feasable mod it would be cheaper than a couple hun on an a/m pipe. Do some searching...

I put zip ties on mine, you can put a clamp on it if you can reach it, might have to be a contorsionist (sp?). I don't think they came with one on there but I may be wrong

huh?????? pic??? lower hull extension in the back? grind out crack & epoxy resin with angel hair mabe, but i dont know what you are talking about. post a pic of the item you are talking about & that will help

Nice Vids

Nice Vids

hey Eric, I like your new av pic. nice height. Off your own wake?

it was good see'n you to, didn't get to party with ya but maybee next year. I think my wife understands that I am already planning on going down again for '10 it was a little shaky for R&R but some good freinds are helping with my little girls so I can come up earier. I hope to get in...

I will be up sat with my SXR, Will may be riding along (a nube) and prob on a js650 or 550sx, or he will just ride mine I dont have a hotel yet, but i usually just play by ear and things tend to work out.

i'll be up on friday again, i dont know if I will be able to stay the night yet or not

use original mikuni parts in the carb. check compression to make sure you are not beating a dead horse it probably needs crank seals as well

shipped today, you should have it tomorrow

the Mikuni diaphram is thinner material. (faster responce to the fuel leaving the bowl) the button on the diaghram on the aftermarket kits is to thick (in this case holding the spring arm open) the Mikuni gaskets fit better. Im sure there are irregularities in the jets form the aftermarket...

so the fuel consumtion issue is fixed with the new Mikuni carb kits. I'll tell all about the parts differances later. I unfortunatly still have a bog on set up for jumps. I think Im going to take a look at the crank seals but i dont think that is the problem hard run, let off gas, back...

welcome to the sport, you will love it. learn to ride & then upgrade to a better platform to throw your money at. An SBN 44 and pipe modification will wake up the ski alot. extended ride plate is nice to. I wouldn't do any more than that. You can find tons of threads on the pipe...

so,,, It would appear that the button on the diaphram that pushes the pivot lever is larger in the WSM kits than stock Mikuni Diaphrams. I put one of the WSM diaphrams in my 550 sbn 44 and had the same overfueling problem,,, to the point that it would not restart do to flooding. So I adjusted...

they were both reading rich but they were not dripping wet. I am going to ride it tomorrow & see where we sit. At least they are even, its not like aI have a blown base gasket & i already check comp and it was good. I need to ride it since i redid the carbs the second time to make sure it...