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Actually this thread is about nothing until the part is widely available. There are a lot of interesting aspects of this hobby. As a group we tend to hit our limit at buying parts or changing the external appearance of out skis.

Im sure most anyone who pays a lot for junk will quickly destroy it.

Its nice to know that the powersports people in China are no different than the ones in this country!

Everything out there is now old and most of it is rough. Check the price of a new OEM crank and a 760 top end. I think the aftermarket can do a little better for similar money. The only question, can you convince a lender to fund any of this?

Some people think 1100s are turds as well. Can you articulate what you want and what price you are willing to pay? You don't seem to have much faith in any proclamation of "affordable power" and I don't ether. Right now everyone is most content selling used parts at new prices.

The bottom needles are for idle only. The top needle is for full throttle only. Set the bottom needles well rich of peak idle rpm. This means close them until the engine speeds up then open to slow it back down. Do this out of the water. Tune the top needles for best acceleration.

What kind of ski is it? Stock Yamahas needs a lot of water going into the exhaust in order to fill it up. You can seal the inner liner to the outer and make a small drain into the outlet. This will keep the chamber full with very little water going to the waterbox. Ive found a lot of missing...

They my do sustained full throttle testing. They may also realize that a carb tune only a tiny bit lean of best power will raise octane requirements by a lot. They may even care about their customers???

Klotz may have improved their product? I ran through a case 20 years ago in a 750 and found a lot of cylinder rust that I never saw before or since. I still run it in everything else because it smells good..

The problem that you may get is a slow leanout at full throttle. You can tell if its doing this by starting too rich and see if it starts gaining power while at full throttle. Depending on your top rpm, the 46 could offer slightly better acceleration.

Lowering the popoff made the idle and pilot mixture richer. Retune the low screw and set the top screws with a tach at full throttle.

Any racing oil will work fine but it typically doesn't have the same corrosion barrier as something with petroleum and butene. Do a thorough blow out at least twice before you put it away.

I do like the way Klotz smells but I rather run Super M or Mercury premium plus in any watercraft. Better corrosion protection.

It smells like Klotz, sorta cherry-ish.

Adding any water between the piston and stinger makes it a wet pipe. The pipes tuning gets longer and its effectiveness decreases, sometimes by a lot. Laydown pipes require extra care when shutting off the engine. With a rider on board the two low spots are the exhaust outlet and the engine.

It would be safest if your rig turned at least 7000 at full throttle and had a rich part throttle mixture. It may be too much for a rig that was over loaded with a lean carb tune.

I would ask at least $1800 for it!

There should be more information about engine setups, operating RPM, and octane requirement to go along with any ignition timing recommendation. Especially considering how inept most riders are at tuning carbs and pumps. It looks like most customers are more interested in being told what instead...

Apparently hyping a sellers product is okay!

Big horsepower numbers are easy to generate with a little more RPM. I know it gets people exited but those 7700 RPM dry pipe setups need a lot of help from race gas to get low end response and keep them from burning up. The pump gas, wet pipe crowd needs as much torque as possible while being...