Search results

Just to give you an idea how corroded everything was, in order to clean the water separator I had to use channel locks to twist off the screw cap and then thoroughly clean the threads. They were full of gunk. So was the spare. Speaking of which, I have tons of spare parts if anyone needs...

Just an update on this project, I know it has been a while. I brought the hull down to my buddy's fiberglass shop and worked on it in the mornings before work. I flipped it over, got it sanded and prepped and he patched up a couple spots with some fiberglass mat and some sort of resin, I didn't...

Sounds like a good plan as far as the grease and spray sealer go. I have torque wrenches and all the specs so I will follow those closely and grease everything liberally. There are little maybe 3/8" nubs that stick out of the crank case that help join the cooling channels between the block and...

I also found this on tapping the drain holes: http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=292741

Oh ok, yeah I thought about just getting a new crankcase too but I am trying not to spend too much more on this project. I may try the nut trick on the studs but everything on this motor has been so neglected that I am sure it will be a pain to get all of the studs out even if I do get a couple...

Here is the current status of the mating surfaces (minus the head): With regard to the top case (first image), this is after scraping with a razor, rubbing with brake cleaner on a cloth, and sanding with 600 grit. I haven't done much to the cylinder block yet.

I was told that with the tight clearances associated with the crankcase that it wouldn't be a simple matter of switching out the lower case. What do you think? Also, how do you remove the studs, channel locks or some sort of stud extractor? I have heard about the glass method and that sounds...

I figured that I used the wrong paint. I will get some of the engine enamel and do a couple coats of that - I don't think this engine is worth using por15 on. The razor blade wasn't having an effect on the mating surface so I used some 600 grit which did a better job. It is smooth and showing...

Here is the cleaned up and painted bottom case. I used backyard grill paint for the heat but it probably isn't the best choice is it?

Does anyone know how to clean the paper gasket off of the top of the case? I have tried carefully scraping with a razor, using a brass wire brush, and wiping it with a rag soaked in brake cleaner. How clean should I get this?

You have confirmed my suspicions with regard to the lower case. I wasn't convinced that it would be a simple swap of one part due to tolerances. I will probably just paint it a little where it is corroded and keep with the black. Blue would be interesting though. As for the ride plate screws...

(This is a cross post from the "my ski and build" thread that I posted this morning - http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/132186-First-build) I was given a 1988 650sx by a friend and have been slowly disassembling and cleaning it for the past few months. I have never ridden a stand up and have no...

Is that better? I had the site on the boring blue style instead of the default darkness.

First build, first post on any forum so let me know if I am in the wrong place here. I was given a 1988 650sx and have been slowly disassembling and cleaning it for the past few months. It had been sitting with dirt, mold, and water in it for years so I was wondering if I should reuse the...