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I wound up changing the washers. The dome head acts as a pole rest if the hood is off. There were originally 5/16 bolts that the pole would hit, so the marks were there, I'll live with it.

This is how I attached the straps. I used a mini hot knife, I hate frayed edges.

The front of the hood has an XScream hook, I made a nut plate for it. I made strap retainers that I ended up not using.

I made scab/nut plates for the ratchet. The center hole in the nut was filled with epoxy so I don't have to pull ebox.

The hood had a SJ catch which was doing nothing for the straps so I fabbed this up. I'm stiil using the stainless ratchet strap. As rude as they are, they work.

This was bedded on with epoxy and 404. I used another epoxy/graghite mix instead of a paint bomb finish.

The u bolt had been punched thru and repaired. I wanted to check the repair which I must say was sound. Kudos to who fixed this. I beefed it for a new one.

Little b4 and after, everyone luvs a makeover.

Back to the oh no. I finished the inside. The mix ratio was a pia , a little trial and error.

This is Plan B for my primer.

I punched the holes from the bottom in the flashing leaving indents where to drill holes.

To mount the tank I tried something different. I used step flashing from HD, polytape, and unidirectional carbon to make a take strap.

I ordered 3 different cart tanks before settling on the Righetti 8. The 8.5 and the 9 angled forward at the worst possible place.

When I said oh no about the epoxy/graphite coating on the ebox punch out I knew this would happen. I really don't like Zolotone, it's fine for the trunk of a '69 Camaro but is kind of spongy and gets oil soaked. So I sanded the inside of the hull. And this was supposed to be a quick build.

I used carbon tube for ebox and waterbox mounts. The waterbox mounts had to be angled for the hull. I made a parallel plate to keep the bolts straight.

This was mounted for a clear path to the scupper.

I finished the box with clear epoxy, made a clip for a single captive bungee.

I had to thicken the back of the box with 4 layers of 1708 for M10 flat heads. Back bottom and side thicknesses.

I wanted the tray to be removable so I used a blister pack from some 60amp fuses to make a mold. Food wrap and a rag, popped these out.