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Is your cable housing solid mounted to the handlepole like you can see in this picture? You can see the bracket right as the cable goes into the tube.

What's not working? Are you referring to the handling of the ski, or strictly just the left to right movement of the bars and the pump nozzle? My steering worked as good as oem, and handling was far greater.

Flywheel shouldn't be bad. Once you get the puller good and tight, smack the end with a hammer. Usually pops it right off. If not, try to tighten a bit more, then smack it again. Never understood the guys who just crank on it with an impact. Does nothing but damage the puller.

I ended up taking my caliper and measuring out where the crossover was. Then I used a pencil to draw it out on the case. Made things a little more clear. I can see where the gasket wouldn't have much support. But anyway, my epoxy work is decked nice and flush with no air bubbles. I'm going to...

Yes I filled the crossover when I did my cases. Yea 44mm duals. Even with the cross over open the entire outer perimeter of the gasket should have a nice area to seal on. So I guess I'm confused about the initial function behind the plate

This is how the assembly come on my intake. I ordered a gasket set and it only came with one intake manifold to case gasket. What's the deal with the extra gasket and plate?

I'll take one of those 61x cylinders for $50...

Man that's a tiny hole though. I'll have to check it with some gauge pins on Monday and try it with a drillbit from work. I do not have anything that small in my garage. I'm gonna try to use welding wire through the fitting and see if I can break anything free

i have a set of 44 sbn carbs that I purchased. The carbs are in relatively good shape. I am having A hard time getting the return line port unplugged tho. I have tried a compressor with a rubber tipped air gun. Let them sit in Chem dip for 36 hrs, and now today put them in an ultra sonic...

That looks great. I tried out the flap disc and it sped things up tremendously. I just used the flap disc at a rapid rate of speed and real low pressure. This kept the gouging to a minimum. Once i started to see some bare glass I switched back to the DA. Kept it fairly smooth.

Just to clarify by first inch I'm referring to the first inch of mating surface. Not referring to the first stepped diameter of the sleeve that goes down into the intake tract.

I have not tried to install the new sleeves yet. Simply realized they already slide into the first inch of the cylinder casting with both sleeve and casting at room temp. The cylinder was heated to 400 degrees when the old sleeves were removed.

I have a good looking 61x cylinder that I removed the sleeves on. The sleeves I removed had pretty bad rust between the sleeve and cylinder casting that extended down about 3/4" below the flange of the sleeve. I cleaned up the cylinder casting with fine scotch Brite. After everything was cleaned...

What's your process for stripping down to the glass?

I need just the cylinder bored for the 82mm pistons I have. I do not have a core. What's the price on just a cylinder?

That handlepole is looking great. So with the dual breathers installed you can run a sealed hood, right?

I'll have more patience at that point because it won't be 10 degrees in my garage anymore lol. I'll probably rattle can it anyway like my 650 in my avatar.

What's the price on that foothold kit from back on page 1?

If you guys look at the pictures I posted....To get from the first picture to the second picture it took me 3 hours. That's only the right side of the top deck down to the original blue gel not including the hood... So I still have another 3 hours on the other side, plus going back and getting...

Thanks for the replys guys. I'll just stick with the 60 grit and DA for now and keep pressing on. I don't know how you guys are getting down to fiberglass in any reasonable time with 150-220 grit. Unless the discs in using suck but they seem to be holding up great so.. I will need to pick up a...