Electrical Help Please

One more question. Will my current flywheel work with the 760 stator? I looked up the 760 and if I’m looking at the one you’re talking about, it’s way different with the stator on the cover vs the cases. Could you provide a link to one? Thanks!

No, you need a 760 flywheel and stator, plus a CDI. They’re dirt cheap now because someone convinced everyone the 62T setup was somehow better. Still got me f***ed why anyone believed that, but anyway…

Knickell said:

Makes total sense. Where is the best place to grab a 760 setup? Is it just a 760 stator and CDI I need to look for?

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Stator , CDI , flywheel and front cover would all have to be replaced , none of the 760 stuff is compatible except for the coil .

Is that Negative Ground Wire connected to the Starter Ground Bolt or to the Bedplate? What is it connected to?

That looks to be a Magneto cover bolt unless I am looking at it wrong , not the right place for a ground cable either way.

is that cover aluminum aftermarket ??

Dose it cook the stator and cdi when you are out riding or when you go to restart it?

Ground cable crimp at the battery looks less then ideal and looks like is going to a dasa flywheel cover. It should reach over and hook to the top 1of the starter mounting bolts.

Yeah you need to get that ground cable off the front cover lol.
Take it to the starter bolt where it can be bare metal to metal with the proper sized fastener.
You’re grounding your engine with a single m6 fastener that is naughty and Santa is for sure leaving coal in your stocking if you don’t change that.

Never had an issue with the nlp batteries and im not saying it can’t be the flywheel either but I’ve never seen it personally.
I can see it because of the way the parts are in the ebox pic but are all your grounds screwed down ?
Wouldn’t even bother troubleshooting until you had a nice new ground cable to the right spot on there things get crazy with improper grounding.

Ya, the Magneto must look like a 4th of July Fireworks show inside having most of the Current arcing thru the Stator, the Flywheel, the Cover, and then to the ill-placed Battery Ground.

Might have even blistered the Crank Ball Bearings

I don't even know where to start with that wiring , so much going on there that just isn't correct

My suggestion start with the simple stuff , new ground and power cables with the ground cable grounded to the starter bolt , ditch the nasty power lead with the fuse holder in it , start over wit that fuse holder and ditch all those funky connectors , the link below makes custom battery cables, their prices a good and their work is top notch , the second link has factory style connectors you can use or someone like me can supply you with a better fuse holder.

OUCH!! 100+ amps of starting current trying to ground through the stator area!!!

Myself said:

OUCH!! 100+ amps of starting current trying to ground through the stator area!!!

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it wasn't trying to it did at least for a short period of time anyway .

I had a Waveventure 1100 that was having all kinds of electrical gremlins , at some point someone replaced the starter and cross-threaded the top starter bolt that the ground cable goes on to , the bolt of course was tight but the ground cable wasn't , not even close to it , I had to pull the starter and retap the hole, put in another bolt and all the gremlins disappeared.

bad ground will cause all kinds of weird issues.

are you certain that youre frying stators and cdis? i understand youve replaced them and had the same issue. have you by chance let the engine cool off and checked spark? your flywheel magnets could be failing once the engine gets warmed up.

Thank you everyone for the replies. The to answer a few questions here.

1. The ski has crapped out while ridding and after shut down then tried to restart and spark was lost.
2. Stator doesn't look cooked, but once replaced the first time is regained spark and ran. 2nd time I replaced it, and no spark, thats when I had to replace the CDI also.
3. Ski still has no spark after cool down or next day.

It's obvious from many comments, I need to move the ground. Thus me providing pics, I thought that was probaby an issue. (This might be the major issue here)
Whats everyone thoughts on just moving the ground, getting the ski started and checking voltage, then decide on swapping to the 760 steup? That idea sounds solid and makes sense. But then I'm back to a stock flywheel or purchasing another aftremarket flywheel. It would be nice to keep my $600 flywheel (unless its the item smoking things).

move ground, check voltage and report back (voltage running)

You can do an AC voltage test on the Source coil , refer to the thread below , it should produce around 35VAC at cranking speed , with a LIPO battery it may spin a little faster and it may be a little high so if you can come up with a stock 16CL-B battery to check it with do so, if it's way off of that mark you will know you have an issue that needs to be addressed.

I have seen aftermarket flywheels with magnets that were too weak and it would not fire , Jetinetics flywheel are notorious for this , I have a 550 Jetinetics flywheel here that makes a really nice paper weight , but I have never seen one with too much magnetism , if so yours will be the first .

Have you replaced the positive and ground cables? If not, good idea where to start. and Install it to the starter bolt..........

are you sure its not an intermittent start/stop switch?

There is a really good electrical troubleshooting section in the Yamaha Superjet Service Manual.
I would be sure before I started throwing stators away

The stator is a simple device, increased flux density (stronger flywheel magnets) could cause the stator to "smoke" from too much voltage / current. You should be using your multi meter to test the charge coil and the pulser coil for:
- turn to turn shorts (Lower than spec resistance measurements)
- open winding (Excessively high resistance measurements)
- phase to ground fault (insulation failure - isolate coil [float both sides of the coil] and measure from the coil to the stator plate, should give very high resistance)

I believe excessive voltage / current could "smoke" a stator.
I believe excessive voltage / current could "smoke" a CDI.
But both at the same time doesn't make sense. One would go first and cause the ski to stop.

P.S. These guys are making a way bigger deal out of the ground cable than it really is. is it conventional? no, but as far as your stator and cdi are concerned it doesnt make a lick of difference. Yes, you should move it, but don't go to the water thinking it might have fixed your issue. The fact that the ski cranks over fine tells me that you have adequate connections.

So if we’re to believe the information given to us, every single component has been replaced with an oem component.
Which leads to it only being the flywheel that hasn’t been changed.
So out of the dozens and dozens of FW’s that they make this one ended up with special magnets that are stronger than all the other magnets that they had laying there for assembly. This could cause a higher generated voltage and heat up components.
Or somehow one of the oem components that was used to troubleshoot was also going bad in the exact same way that the previous component was and now we have the same issue. Probably not right?
We were told that the cdi and stators were burned up so we figure it’s not the s/s which could for sure cause intermittent loss of spark.

So then we get a picture of a ground cable that looks like it’s seen a WW1 battlefield and it’s bolted to the gasketed FW cover on an unprepared surface to most likely unclean threads. What does an insufficient ground to battery do Dylan? Cause overheating and voltage spikes.

Now hold on it gets really crazy. What if it’s a combination of stronger than normal magnets that would usually not be an issue coupled with a direly insufficient ground. Are we sure it “cranks over fine” ? What if we were given incomplete information or op simply missed something ?
If everything we were told is accurate and we have a picture of something that’s certainly an issue id for sure start at the glaring issue.
could be wrong, been wrong before, if you’re really worried replace both. See what it does. I even have a OEM fw you could borrow. It’s 100% wrong and an issue and one that’s directly related to what you’re trying to figure out