Electrical Help Please

K

Knickell

Location
Lemoore ca
I have new motor with all new electrical and electrical is connected properly with no shorts(triple checked). It has a TBM light weight flywheel from Thrust Innovations and MSD enhancer & OEM stator.
Problem: ski runs awesome for about 20-30 minutes then smokes the stator and takes the CDI with it. This has happened 3 times now. The only thing that hasn’t been swapped is the flywheel. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
DylanS

DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
^ this and check your ground cable ends for corrosion inside the crimps. A multimeter will generally ring out and show no issue on a borderline failing ground cable and its fairly common on the older cables.
Slow cranking and hot/warm cables are a good indicator too.
 
K

Knickell

Location
Lemoore ca
All electrical is good. Even the wiring is new. No corrosion and cranks solid, no warm wires. And yes Madmat. $$$$. Its been sucking! I'm wondering if the flywheel could cause this. Its the only item I havn't swpped. I did swap the rectifier. Evrthing is OEM. Thank you evyone for the input. Keep it coming:)
 
WFO Speedracer

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Clarify what is happening , when you say it smokes the stator is it melting the black ground wire on the stator and of course the wires next to the ground wire ?
 
WFO Speedracer

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
If none of the wires are melted how do you know it's bad , do resistance checks verify it's bad , to me it sounds a bit like a flywheel that has lost magnetism .

Are these OEM stators or chinky chanky Chinese stators we are talking about here ?
 
K

Knickell

Location
Lemoore ca
Its a 62T motor, brand new built by Jet Maniac.
It loses spark. I drop in a new OEM stator along with a new CDI and it fires right up. I also tried a new battery on the last one and it still crapped out the stator and CDI after 20 minutes of runing great. But I am running a lightweight lithium Ion battery. Is there any issue running those? Also forgot to mention, its burnt up an MSD and an OEM CDI so far. I'm really down to the flywheel here, but I wouldn't think the flywheel could cause this problem. Maybe its creating too much charge back?? Magnets are messed up. Is that even possible? I sent and email to TBM asking this question about the flywheel and waiting for a response now. Thank you guys again for helping out here. This has been sucking.
 
WFO Speedracer

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
The flywheel cannot overcharge anything , it is the voltage regulators job to make sure it does not overcharge , that being said what is the voltage across the battery terminals when it is running ,anything above 15 V and everything connected will get fried.

Just take a look at the Waxhead 760 charging system , two charging coils , two voltage regulators , twice the charging system output , still not frying the electrical components , all the excess voltage not used is bled off to ground by the voltage regulator.
 
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K

Knickell

Location
Lemoore ca
I think based on what I’m putting together here, that I need to put the new parts in again. Start it and check voltage while running. I do know when I checked for spark the last time, the spark looked really strong when leaning the plug against a head bolt and cranking.
 
W

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
This is why we use a 760 system. The ignition is not getting massive coltage from the stator. If the magnets in the flywheel are really strong they may be effecting the not the lighting coil but the exciter coil for the cdi and over heating it. I would be looking to just this the next time and make sure its not overloading these
 
K

Knickell

Location
Lemoore ca
Just so I’m understanding correctly. You’re saying a 760 cdi and coil? You just made me think about the coil. Even though the coil is working fine, could that cause this? I haven’t swapped that item out yet.
 
K

Knickell

Location
Lemoore ca
Here are some pics. Let me know if you see anything wrong here that would cause my problem.
 

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W

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
Nah, the ignition coil isn’t the issue — I’m talking about the charging coil inside the front cover. A lot of people don’t actually understand how this works, so it’s worth explaining properly. Whenever you move a magnetic field through an iron core, it increases the magnetic flux and that induces voltage in the coil wrapped around it. The iron core doesn’t “amplify current” — it just improves the magnetic coupling, which bumps the voltage up.

If you’re running aftermarket flywheel magnets that are too strong or not matched to the stator winding, you’ll end up pushing way more voltage through the system than it was designed for. That’s when stuff starts cooking — the stator windings get hot, insulation fails, and before long the CDI cops it too. Even though the trigger pickup is fixed, a stronger magnetic field and EMI can mess with the trigger signal, which can throw your timing off or make it unstable.

This is exactly why I prefer the 760 setup. It’s got a fixed trigger reference, runs off a clean 12 V DC supply, and it’s just a more stable and reliable system than the old 62T. Honestly, I’m always shocked when people say the 62T is “better,” and even more shocked when it’s coming from people who should know better.

Bottom line: if you’re blowing CDIs and stator windings while running a hot aftermarket flywheel, that’s probably your problem. The magnets are too strong, the voltage goes through the roof, and the rest of the system pays the price.
 
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