advancing stock timing
- Thread starter Pablo
- Start date
- Location
- Raleigh NC\Lake Jordan
Ive read that every mm is close to 1 degree, so the way I did it was measure 3mm from the stock little arrow on the stator on the cases and moved my stator 3mm.
SUPERTUNE
Race Gas Rules
- Location
- Clearwater Fl.
Always use a timing light to KNOW what timing your running! You'll never learn to do high performance engine work if you don't know for sure. Too many variables in this business.
If you don't know how to do it just ask or do a search.
Use a sparkplug dial indicator, mount a pointer off the coupler cover boss, use piston height chart, mark the engine coupler at what degree you want, fire up ski hold about 3000 rpm's using a standard timing light.
Are you running a MSD Enhancer or stock cdi? The Enhancer will give you a little room to advance timing.
If you don't know how to do it just ask or do a search.
Use a sparkplug dial indicator, mount a pointer off the coupler cover boss, use piston height chart, mark the engine coupler at what degree you want, fire up ski hold about 3000 rpm's using a standard timing light.
Are you running a MSD Enhancer or stock cdi? The Enhancer will give you a little room to advance timing.
Chuck,
Muchos gracias for the input. I've set/advanced timing during my TL setups, but never modified my stock timing. I have a timing light and degree wheel. I've read that there is very little play room concerning the ability to advance stock timing. I was shooting for (I'm guessing here) 5 or less. How far can I safely go? I'm using a lightened OEM flywheel (62t)/stator/oem ebox, 760 flat top big bore w/ported cylinder and cases, 35 domes, bored out limited bpipe.
Muchos gracias for the input. I've set/advanced timing during my TL setups, but never modified my stock timing. I have a timing light and degree wheel. I've read that there is very little play room concerning the ability to advance stock timing. I was shooting for (I'm guessing here) 5 or less. How far can I safely go? I'm using a lightened OEM flywheel (62t)/stator/oem ebox, 760 flat top big bore w/ported cylinder and cases, 35 domes, bored out limited bpipe.
Chuck thanks for the input. I got off my lazy butt and did some thread searching instead of asking everyone to spoon feed me. Here's a good start link for this thread info. http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/48002-How-do-I-set-my-Timing-What-should-it-be&highlight=advance+timing.
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
I have ran mine like this for a few seasons, fuel anywhere from 87-04 octane, msd enhancer. some WOT, but not much when Ive got a tank of cheap gas. Chuck is right KNOWING your actual timing is the best way, but if you are lazy, and sometimes lucky like me, you can just 'wing it'
- Location
- Raleigh NC\Lake Jordan
I have ran mine like this for a few seasons, fuel anywhere from 87-04 octane, msd enhancer. some WOT, but not much when Ive got a tank of cheap gas. Chuck is right KNOWING your actual timing is the best way, but if you are lazy, and sometimes lucky like me, you can just 'wing it'
thats what I did.
SUPERTUNE
Race Gas Rules
- Location
- Clearwater Fl.
If you do this make sure you have a MSD Enhancer CDI. The stock CDI is not a good one to run timing advanced with if you have strong compression and running stock lean burn carbs.
I matched a degree wheel to my stator plate and marked off ticks for each degree between the 0 and the 5 degree mark. I'm planning on advancing 4 degrees and run an ATP Epic ignition with a lightened OEM flywheel. Is 5 too far? Reliability is paramount. My setup is the same as in an earlier post on this thread except for the ignition and new BJ 44's. Always run 93 octane at 50:1, but have been recently advised to mix AVgas 2:3 with 93 pump for improved performance. I like the idea of AVgas, but not the hassle of obtaining and storing.
I don't understand why you need to advance the stater if you are using an epic. The epic with the proper program should do the advancing for you. The curve was probably meant to used with the stater at the stock settings.
To answer your question I sort of remember that I figured out the amount of change at the diameter of the alignment marks to be 1.1 mm for every degree. I am not 100 percent sure because that was a long time ago. You should be able to print degree wheels from the internet and reduce or increase in size if needed to match the diameter of the alignment marks. Then all you need is a caliper to measure out your new alignment marks
To answer your question I sort of remember that I figured out the amount of change at the diameter of the alignment marks to be 1.1 mm for every degree. I am not 100 percent sure because that was a long time ago. You should be able to print degree wheels from the internet and reduce or increase in size if needed to match the diameter of the alignment marks. Then all you need is a caliper to measure out your new alignment marks
Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
Exacly my thought as well. I just got an EPIC and it supposed to advance the timing by itself (or rather the curve issetup like that). I know MSD enhancer does the advance as well and then retards it ..?
So why to fool arounf with the stator at all???
Do not advance the timing if you are using EPIC, the whole point of having a programmable ignition is so that you can use this feature to write a curve. There is no point in writing a curve and then advancing the entire thing by 4 degrees.
The best way to check your timing is to line up stator marks then programme a flat line curve at say 21 degrees then use a timing light to verify. If you are slightly off you can use the offset feature in EPIC.
Chris.
Thanks boys. I haven't recd the ignition yet but was thinking those same thoughts about the brain doing the advancing itself. until I receive it I'm still running the OEM cdi. I did mark the stator off with an actual degree wheel so the distance to advance is not really in question but rather if 5 degrees is too far for fear of detonation. Once I get the epic in my hands I'll return the stator to its stock position.