dual cooling, install another line vs using siphon line?

[whennotsailing]

what the title says. Has anyone ever installed another line through the bulkhead to rig up dual cooling, in place of using the siphon line?

If so, how did you do it? How long does the piece need to be ?

I want to keep the siphon in place and working.

 

[whennotsailing]

also, not seeing this flat spot on my pump that so many speak of.. where do I tap this thing?

 

[orangefinger]

O ordered a extended Drill from electrical store ( this is flexible the drill bit is 3/8's and the rest of the bit thiner, its used for drilling thru studs behind drywall and then pulling electrical wires )and 3/8 stainless tubing from Amazon

Stainless Steel 316L Welded Annealed Tubing 3/8" OD x .305" ID x .035" Wall 36" Length

Then I drilled paralell from the back thru into the bulkhead with a 3/8 drill, a tiny little bit grinding on the outside and inside hole then cut the tube and pushed it thru, its really snug that way almost does not move, sealed with 5200 quick dry....bam done...

As for the pump opinions differ, I had to drill the same pumps like yours but the wall is very thin and only allows for couple of threads, they say oposite from the other one, but again I know opinions differ here

 

[chriselmore_1]

also, not seeing this flat spot on my pump that so many speak of.. where do I tap this thing?

thats because the early superjets siphon came off the stator section. the later sjs siphon comes off the reduction nozzle.

 

[whennotsailing]

orangefinger, any approximation of the length of that stainless tube once you had it cut to fit? / how long does the drill bit need to be?

chriselmore - thanks for the history lesson. Where do I tap?

 

[Liquid Graffix]

Stud - The pump stator you have in your picture is from an early 650. If you pull that big black hose off you'll see a large hole. Your options are to find a newer pump stator, or have that one welded and then tap it. Having it welded up might be more of a hassle than finding a new stator.

As far as the new tube for the through hull, it needs to be stainless tubing - 3/8 OD, and about 20" - 24" long. (I just did this last night to my ski)
I started with a 24" piece and I trimmed it back. Then you can use some plumbers putty to fill in the gap and seal it up. It dries rock hard in about 20 mins and it is water tight. The picture shows where the holes for the tube are.

Here are some pics for ya:

 

[MNTURBO]

I parted a ski that had the extra line you are talking about. The previous owner had used aluminum tubing with an o.d. of 3/8 i believe. He just drilled from the pump cavity to the bulkhead and used 5200 to seal it up

 

[tor*p*do]

mod your pump :smoker:

details:

http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/66212&highlight=weld

 

[Boris]

Stud - The pump stator you have in your picture is from an early 650. If you pull that big black hose off you'll see a large hole. Your options are to find a newer pump stator, or have that one welded and then tap it. Having it welded up might be more of a hassle than finding a new stator.

I filled that large hole with JB Weld and once set, I drilled and tapped it for the brass fitting. No issues and it's been there for 3 years.

 

[QuickMick]

O ordered a extended Drill from electrical store ( this is flexible the drill bit is 3/8's and the rest of the bit thiner, its used for drilling thru studs behind drywall and then pulling electrical wires )and 3/8 stainless tubing from Amazon

Home depot has them in the Electrical dept.

 

[whennotsailing]

i got a handle on this now, thanks for the help. I like the redundancy factor of the siphon, bilge pump, and soon to be installed scupper tube. I think i want to pick up a newer style stator... anyone got parts laying around?

 

[Boris]

Keep the stator you have and just run a never style reduction nozzle, much cheaper.
There's nothing wrong with your stator but if you have a plastic reduction nozzle this would be a perfect time to upgrade.

 

[whennotsailing]

what yr did the newer style reduction nozzles start?