b pipe settings...hot = how much more power?

masterblaster

masterblaster

X-H2
ive read all the stuff on b pipes making more power when hot as well as tnt chambers,how much more power are they making hot than they are cool on the same setup? If you are tuning your pipe to get hot in flat water but ride surf most the time,should you set it up really hot so it will stay hot in surf riding conditions with no wot runs?
Has anyone tried running a water injector like this in a reg b pipe?
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/15458

the hp listed in this dyno make me wonder how hot the pipe had to be to produce these #s,as on most setups I dont notice this much of a gain over stock,but most setups ive tried were setup running a cooler chamber?

Dyno701SJ2.jpg
 
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Flash-FX

Flash-FX

No Square..No Round..FX-1
Location
South Jersey Shore
masterblaster said:
ive read all the stuff on b pipes making more power when hot as well as tnt chambers,how much more power are they making hot than they are cool on the same setup? If you are tuning your pipe to get hot in flat water but ride surf most the time,should you set it up really hot so it will stay hot in surf riding conditions with no wot runs?
Has anyone tried running a water injector like this in a reg b pipe?
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/15458

the hp listed in this dyno make me wonder how hot the pipe had to be to produce these #s,as on most setups I dont notice this much of a gain over stock,but most setups ive tried were setup running a cooler chamber?

Dyno701SJ2.jpg
Click to expand...
Hmmm...That chart/graph looks real nice. I can't say that a real dry/HOT "B" pipe will make a real big difference. Maybe in a more controlled environment, like on a dyno. I've had sand or mud clog my head pipe while riding in the surf and also in the creeks (some WOT runs) and it seems to be weaker. The first indication of a clogged headpipe is the exhaust note (raspy & loud). Then if you don't want to burn up the coupler, you better stop and unclog it. Water injection might be helpful for HP in the surf but all that extra electric stuff can be also be a drag.

I am currently running a water filter between the front outlet on the head, and the headpipe (down flow through the headpipe) and the bottom screw open about 1/2 turn out. The filter has prevented head pipe clogging which is a pain in the a$$ to deal with on a ride. The pipe doesn't sizzle much after a WOT (7250RPM) run but it's fast enough for me = 2 seasons on the same coupler.
 
#ZERO

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
This is all something you have to find out by testing your setup to see what's best for your ski. Most all pipes will usually perform well when they are hotter but is also dependant on back pressure and sonic wave reflection. The TNT pipes are made out of stainless so they will retain heat better and ceramic coatings on the chamber can help too. The water injection system will allow more control over the normal b-pipe screws and will enable you to control the injection rate at different rpms. If you're using a half turn on the top screw it will have a completely different effect if you have dual cooling, single cooling, 3 bypasses, 1 bypass, huge pump nozzle, stock pump nozzle, etc. All of those things (plus more) affect the water pressure in the head pipe and that affects how much water is injected, plus little things like how much carbon buildup there is in the head pipe at the injection hole. People want cut and dry answers on tuning, but tuning is a lot of testing on the setup you have to see what does and doesn't work.
 
masterblaster

masterblaster

X-H2
Wasnt talking about true rpm dependent water injection, In the thread posted,they are using just the water injector nozzle,plumbed to a water line from the pump for better water control than the screw settings.

So it seems from what im told the hotter the pipe the faster the wave travels = the higher rpm,what im not sure I understand is if there is any sacrifice in low end for these extra rpms. #0 I totally agree with what your saying,there is no one set way to tune this pipe,all those factors in cooling setup make a huge diff in how well it seems to perform.I hadnt thought of nozzle bore? I wouldnt think this would change the pressure to cooling line that much?
My current setup was very cool from water from top and middle screw,I shut off the middle and only left about a 1/2 turn or less on the top screw,the ski came to life in the low and mid BIG TIME and it still isnt sizzling water after short sustained wot runs.I had to add over 1.5 turns on the main jet carb screw to keep it from leaning out.its past 2 turns out so I may even need to jet up a size?So it is really making more power all over,so I dont think it feels sacrificial anywhere.
 
Dustin Mustangs

Dustin Mustangs

uʍop ǝpıs dn
Location
Holland, MI
Theoretically, a pipe will be ideally tuned at one specific rpm (or maybe a few unique points depending on where the harmonics fall) and the closer you are to that point(s) the more the 'tuning' of the pipe is helping you. So according to this, drying out your pipe to 'tune' it towards a faster sonic wave and more rpm should hurt power for everything below the previous ideal rpm. More so the further you are from that point.

That being said, the mod pipe on my blaster seems to make the best power across the entire board when run as dry as possible. With dual cooling, I have gone as little as 1/16th open bottom only and am still not getting sizzle on the chamber. Set like this, it hits great pretty much everywhere, the only downside being that it is a little light-switchy when cruising at part throttle. It took me for ever to find this setting because, to me, it goes against intuition for a limited setup like mine.
 
masterblaster

masterblaster

X-H2
roo and dustin. this has been my precise experience as well.theory says it shortins the wave for more rpms. But with dual cooling im getting plenty of pressure to the headpipe and plenty of water flow at even less than 1/4 turn open. Ive tried just opening the top screw a little to see if it brings on any extra low end,and it does not seem to improve at all.

wilkey,Ill stick with the old excuse and desire for longevity in this sport I could care less about power with a backy,you could run at a wave with a stock 701 from way back and make it no sweat,craig and many others proved that. but a reintry with a 5 foot setup sure loves the extra power.Mark was pulling them easy on my blue ski. I use to think pipe settings meant didly squat till I started tuning on it.youd be surprised what it can do
 
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Speedfreak

Speedfreak

Location
So. IL
I have a jacketed limited pipe. It has a complete water jacket welded around the limited pipe. It could be the sound but I feel that the motor gets to peak RPM faster with no water at all in the pipe. The motor is super crisp and response seems to be spot on like it was fuel injected. I would run the pipe completely dry but with my TDR waterbox and front exhaust I just can't handle it.

So I would say also that the dry hot pipe would make more power
 
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Roo

Roo

it's all good
Site Supporter
Location
Lake Orion, Michigan
Speedfreak said:
I have a jacketed limited pipe. It has a complete water jacket welded around the limited pipe. It could be the sound but I feel that the motor gets to peak RPM faster with no water at all in the pipe. The motor is super crisp and response seems to be spot on like it was fuel injected. I would run the pipe completely dry but with my TDR waterbox and front exhaust I just can't handle it.

So I would say also that the dry hot pipe would make more power
Click to expand...

I use to run my b-pipe as hot as possible...

I have since switched to the Power Factor Dry pipe... spot on with what you said. Though I have rear exhaust only. No way could you run a front with this setup and no water in the system.
 
CARBONX2

CARBONX2

Location
South Africa
Roo said:
I use to run my b-pipe as hot as possible...

I have since switched to the Power Factor Dry pipe... spot on with what you said. Though I have rear exhaust only. No way could you run a front with this setup and no water in the system.
Click to expand...

Add a fitting with fcv at entrance to waterbox to supply more water
 
masterblaster

masterblaster

X-H2
Have any of you noticed any sacrifice in low end hit once its up to temp? it feels even better to me in the low end. Maybe its just powering through the dead spot in the curve and hitting the power band so fast with the shorted wave,thats its undetectable
 
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