FX-1 My fx1 rips

Ive finally put some ride time on the fx1 since building it over the winter. Man this things a handful! Its bone stock besides a protech ride plate, kawi pump with scat 15.5 w/kick, foot holds and a 20 hp k&n flame arrestor. I worked mainly on the cosmetics and the pump over winter. Front plastic is gone and I filled the indentions, No more hockey stick lines on the rear of the ski where the turf wrapped around. I cut some foot holds (troughs) into my tray, they are kinda like the clowners that run the full lenth of the tray. I dont like how I cut them out of the rear cause that will cause another seam in my turf, im either leaving it like it is with the underpad built up or fixing it right with foam and glass. The purple has been eliminated besides my bow eyes just to keep in remembrace of all the purple the ski used to have. I havent turfed it yet but when I do Im going with dark grey bstock and trimming the whole ski with it to break up the white. This was my first paint job and glasswork and im pretty happy with the results. The fire extinguisher compartment turned out nice.
 

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The ski is alot of fun, but I may have to pitch up. I cannot run over half throttle without porpoising like crazy. Ive tried putting all my weight up front and no help. These skis seem very light up front, moreso than my conversion ski. My nose is in the air most of the time and subs are harder. This thing jumps 3 foot easy with no wake and bone stock motor. My brother in law snapped my steering cable so its down now. I think im gonna go th superjet route for more thow, will a sn cable work with the rn turn plate? I found a good deal on a sn cable.
 
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Lookin good.

To get the nose down shorten the pole. I'm 6' and took it down 4.5". This helped a lot.

Rideplate makes a difference too, but IMO not nearly as much as cutting the pole down.
 
Thanks for the tips guys, I may have a shortened pole in the future and washers on the rear. I sometimes go a good ways down the lake following friends boats and pontoons so the porpoising will suck.

I forgot to mention that I filled the bondline and hood lip with cabosil and glassed the whole compartment with a 7 oz dyed glass and 1 layer of 17oz under my pole mount. I went light in the compartment cause I dont plan on riding much surf and didnt want a super heavy ski. My hood lip is alot stiffer now.

I gotta give credit where credit is due to Hardcore, Special Fx, and Algonquin for the tips and help on this. Thanks guys.

The 15.5 with a kick works well on the ski besides the porpoising so I may try the shorter pole and washers b4 I start switching props.

I love the holds. At first I rolled over every time I tried to turn cause my foot stance almost being over the edge of the ski, but since ive gotten more used to it I can dig the side of the ski in the water. Felt funny when I got back on the the js conversion ski as its just a stock tray with no holds. I felt confined and couldnt turn as hard.
 

95FX1

brrrrraaaaaappppppp
im a 250+ fx1 rider and the purpose was tuff for the first few months...but with trial and error in adjustment ride style....j/d plate and whatnot im all good to go....and im pretty sure there aint to many bro's bigger or heavyer then me ridind an FX1....

get a plate and give it a lil time to adjust
 
Just found out why the steering cable snapped. I had my turn plate set on the outermost hole for quicker steering and really never checked the cable to see if it would kink, well it did. I had to thread out alot to get the x2 nozzle centered. I did notice that the only hole that I can run the pivot ball on without kinking is the inner most one.
 
You can move the steering cable attach point closer to the pivot point on the nozzle and gain ration without jammin' your cable. You can drill a new hole about 3/8" - 1/2" from the old, just stay on the same plane so your swing stays symetrical.

Here's a pic of mine....I run a Sea-poo heim joint, but stock will work or buy a '08/'09 SJ cable end, they run a heim joint too.
 

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You can move the steering cable attach point closer to the pivot point on the nozzle and gain ration without jammin' your cable. You can drill a new hole about 3/8" - 1/2" from the old, just stay on the same plane so your swing stays symetrical.

Here's a pic of mine....I run a Sea-poo heim joint, but stock will work or buy a '08/'09 SJ cable end, they run a heim joint too.

Awesome, thanks special. I noticed it didnt handle as well as it should, I wasnt getting all of my throw to the left, should have stopped riding it when I noticed it so i wouldnt have broke my cable but I couldnt. Its gonna handle great once I get the bugs out. This is by far my favorite ski, love the hookup!

Those heim joints look superior to the old design, they look like they wouldnt have as much play.
 
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I fixed the cable for $2. I also done the special fx trick to the nozzle so im set for the next round. I still cant use the outer hole on my turn plate, but im at the middle one. Ive got a lock washer on each side of the ride plate on the two back bolts.
 

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New plan is to make another extender coupler like the one i used to repair my cable an extend the nozzle end of the cable. This will allow me to used the outermost hole and be able to center my nozzle. As it is I lack about a 1/4 of ajustment to center my nozzle. Im trying to get every bit of throw out of this as I can and won't have to change anything.
 
The washer trick helped, I put a lockwasher on each side. Im lovin this ski the more time I put on it. For flatwater I have yet to ride better. The throw is great now, like a superjet. Im really not too concerned with motor mods yet cause it pulls hard as is. I wish I had 12 of these.
 
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