Anyone running their Lamey w/ high compression(225 ish)?

jeckert

Going backwards
Location
Chicago
I had a spacer plate added to my 5mm PV Lamey motor; since I went to a 133mm rod from a 125mm. The plate bumped up the compression from 200psi to 225psi. I run 110 octane and the motor runs great, but does not want to start up smooth. It sounds like there are rocks in the motor on start up. It seems to be the bendix, so I put in a new SBT one in to try to fix the problem and it is still happening. I ordered an OEM bendix and just replaced the starter w/ new OEM last night (their is very minor wear on 6-8 teeth of the flywheel).

Anyone else have this problem? ...could rough start-up be due to the high compression?

Thanks!
 

jeckert

Going backwards
Location
Chicago
yep!

BTW I've been turning over the motor w/out the MSD on; it turns over w/ ease w/out the plugs in it, but the moment I put them in it sounds like there are rocks are in the motor (that's why I'm thinking it has something to do w/ high compression and the mesh of the bendix and flywheel).
 
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Don 79 TA

Still Fat....
i ran mine with more then 225, to me it felt slower, like to tight
i should be near 215-220 now with the overbore and and cylinder mill
i run a RAD flywheel with MSD
other then a little piston knock at initial start up, it's been fine (wiesco pistons can tend to knock at initial start up)

I don't have a spacer plate
i run 26cc domes, didn't feel much more with 24s or 22s
i run 110 octane and also have pistons heat coated
 

GIL

Power In The Hands Of Few
Location
Cullman AL
5mil Lamey, std length rods on a rad crank, 28 static, 218psi, start retard on, no issues.

same as above w/24cc domes=240psi and still no problems here

85mm kawi style flattops, 100LL fuel straight w/benol at 32:1

I have taken the static as high as 37* and it got a lil cranky but was freegin awesome-I just can't afford to risk that much timing and compression very often. I run the 218psi setup and 28static all the time now.
 

jeckert

Going backwards
Location
Chicago
Could be wrong but think the longer rods cause the piston to dwell more at tdc, thus you need less timing, higher comp doesn't help

I believe it remains up at TDC longer with "stock length" rods; a longer rod should dwell at BDC longer.

Also, the Total Loss is not grounded or anything I am just cranking it over without the ignition on and it is sounding like crap.

I'll let you know when I throw in an OEM bendix and ditch the SBT one.

thanks!
 

jeckert

Going backwards
Location
Chicago
OK my I threw in the OEM bendix today and SUCCESS!!! I ran 7 gallons today!

Lesson learned, run all OEM crap in an expensive ski...NO MORE AFTERMARKET starters or bendixes for this guy!
 

wsuwrhr

Purveyor of the Biggest Brapp
We don't ever use any other starter or bendix but OEM. They are outrageously priced, what like $300 for the bendix and the same for the starter, but with problems like you are having, it is worth it.

A bendix failure can take out the crank and everything else in the flywheel area, even the case.

Do not skimp in this area.

Brian

OK my I threw in the OEM bendix today and SUCCESS!!! I ran 7 gallons today!

Lesson learned, run all OEM crap in ANY ski...NO MORE AFTERMARKET starters or bendixes for this guy!
 
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