Cranks w/ no plugs - No crank w/ plugs

douglee25

douglee25

m3booooy
Location
South Jersey
cookerq62 said:
Is this Brian's yellow 750?
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No, my buddy from Tom's River area who I work with.

#.0 said:
Have the battery checked by an automotive parts store that has an electrical battery conductance tester, this will give you the exact CCA and voltage.

Reread my explanation again. We used car batteries with the same result.

Did you every check the voltage at the starter while cranking or perform a voltage drop or ohm test on the cables?

No, we tried OEM cables and jumper cables, jetski batteries, car batteries. Same result.

Also double the check the resistance of your starter solenoid while it's energized, you might not be getting the sufficient amperage to your starter.

We bypassed this completely.
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#ZERO

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
Just because parts are new or from something else doesn't mean they're necessarily good working parts.

Each part needs to be tested systematically and individually until you find the problem.

Let me know when you find the solution and I'll bet money it's something you probably overlooked.
 
douglee25

douglee25

m3booooy
Location
South Jersey
#.0 said:
Just because parts are new or from something else doesn't mean they're necessarily good working parts.

Each part needs to be tested systematically and individually until you find the problem.

Let me know when you find the solution and I'll bet money it's something you probably overlooked.
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I'm not saying it's something that has been overlooked. What I am saying is:

1. Two different, known working starters produced the same result.

2. Two different, known working bendixes produced the same result.

3. Two different, known working batteries produced the same result when hooked up to the OEM wiring.

4. Three different known working batteries produced the same result when hooked up via 2 different jumper cable sets, directly to the starter stud and directly to an engine bolt ground.

Doug
 
#ZERO

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
That would explain the squeal nose on startup.

I speculate that's one of the reasons RAD went out of business with cracked hubs, slipping ring gears, timing problems etc makes you wonder if the aluminum flywheels are really worth the trouble. :scratchchin:
 
douglee25

douglee25

m3booooy
Location
South Jersey
I was telling my buddy that we had no way of verifying it was slipping unless we ruined a cover and sawed off the side to hold the bendix while cranking. We ordered a stock flywheel that we were going to reassemble with to eliminate that as a possibility. Currently the gaskets and other parts should arrive any day. We hope to reassemble next week sometime.

Doug
 
douglee25

douglee25

m3booooy
Location
South Jersey
We just got all the parts in on Friday. My buddy took all the parts and put them through his parts washer. They cleaned up nicely. No more clogged water jackets. We hope to reassemble at some point this coming week. I'll keep you all posted.

Doug
 
douglee25

douglee25

m3booooy
Location
South Jersey
Update:

Sure enough we checked the RAD flywheel and the ring gear was loose.

We obtained the gaskets, stock flywheel, and cleaned parts and began to assemble. We got everything together, popped some plugs in it, and the motor turned over with ease. We checked compression and the cold motor we were at 165 psi. Good to go.

Problem solved. Bad RAD flywheel. Thanks again for everyone's help.

Doug
 
Freakrider

Freakrider

X247
Location
Tampa Bay area
#.0 said:
That would explain the squeal nose on startup.

I speculate that's one of the reasons RAD went out of business with cracked hubs, slipping ring gears, timing problems etc makes you wonder if the aluminum flywheels are really worth the trouble. :scratchchin:
Click to expand...

what about the MSD charging flywheel...they stopped making them...same story or were they better ?
 
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