95' waveblaster 701 power at coil, no spark

[labrat]

I have a 1995 Waveblaster 701 with no spark.... I have read some links and attempted some of the recommended tests, but not sure if im on the right track.

was running great, then suddenly no spark at all... still turns over great and all that.

voltage going into the coil reads around 12.5 or 13 volts while cranking it over. no spark on either sparkplug wire though...

is that the correct voltage meaning my coil is cooked?
just wanna verrify before i go buy parts because I am a rookie when it comes to electric problems.

thanks for any input

Adam

 

[dajnglst]

As per Yamaha to test ignition coil:
Primary side of ignition coil is .078-.106 ohms (Black/Orange wires)
Have seen .06 still work,

Secondary side of ignition coil is:
3.5 - 4.7 ohms
Ensure plug wires are tight in coil and not sloppy, glued from factory on OEM style and WSM stuff.
Cut back insulator on plug wire with cap removed to expose fresh wire. Crank over engine and see if you get better than 6-8 mm spark gap. If you look in engine bay at night you can sometimes see ignition shorting to other grounds as well as bleeding between wires.
(Surf rider, mask entire plug wire up, and dampen coil connection to wire in e box with silicone)
((Crazy surf rider, drill and fill ebox with oil so water does not invade your box next time you swamp it out))

In most cases the coil does not just burn out, it will go weak before shutting down unless it's cheapo wsm stuff. I have found their stuff with weak resistance #'s out of the packaging.

Try unplugging stop switch ground, the black connector for the handle bar first. It likes to ground out signal some times. Just get ready to pull plug wires or cup off intake if it lights up. Or just plug black connector back in to shut off signal to coil if it's broken.

Pulser coil and charge coil can burn up also.
You can look for pulser signal to CDI. White Red/ Black wires.
Use AC setting on meter

Book Test:
Pulser
12.06-15.4 ohms

Charge Coil
328.5-401.5 ohms

Yamaha manual does not provide voltage drop.
Inspect overall condition of wires from stator, black looking ? Some of the older yamaha's did not have tin coated copper wire, corroded easily.

Also all the wiring connections, build up with corrosion. Inspect, clean and ensure to crimp them a little before you re connect what you have pulled apart as they do not bite as well after removed from ancient boats.

Not seen on many yamaha's but magnets in flywheel can fly around if bendix bushing chips or foreign stuff is flying around. Easily checked out on Blaster.

If resistance tests check out and still no signal you need to tear apart your buddies or wives boat for the cdi.

Good luck.

 

[Kaveman]

As per Yamaha to test ignition coil:
Primary side of ignition coil is .078-.106 ohms (Black/Orange wires)
Have seen .06 still work,

Secondary side of ignition coil is:
3.5 - 4.7 ohms
Ensure plug wires are tight in coil and not sloppy, glued from factory on OEM style and WSM stuff.
Cut back insulator on plug wire with cap removed to expose fresh wire. Crank over engine and see if you get better than 6-8 mm spark gap. If you look in engine bay at night you can sometimes see ignition shorting to other grounds as well as bleeding between wires.
(Surf rider, mask entire plug wire up, and dampen coil connection to wire in e box with silicone)
((Crazy surf rider, drill and fill ebox with oil so water does not invade your box next time you swamp it out))

In most cases the coil does not just burn out, it will go weak before shutting down unless it's cheapo wsm stuff. I have found their stuff with weak resistance #'s out of the packaging.

Try unplugging stop switch ground, the black connector for the handle bar first. It likes to ground out signal some times. Just get ready to pull plug wires or cup off intake if it lights up. Or just plug black connector back in to shut off signal to coil if it's broken.

Pulser coil and charge coil can burn up also.
You can look for pulser signal to CDI. White Red/ Black wires.
Use AC setting on meter

Book Test:
Pulser
12.06-15.4 acv

Charge Coil
328.5-401.5 acv

Yamaha manual does not provide voltage drop.
Inspect overall condition of wires from stator, black looking ? Some of the older yamaha's did not have tin coated copper wire, corroded easily.

Also all the wiring connections, build up with corrosion. Inspect, clean and ensure to crimp them a little before you re connect what you have pulled apart as they do not bite as well after removed from ancient boats.

Not seen on many yamaha's but magnets in flywheel can fly around if bendix bushing chips or foreign stuff is flying around. Easily checked out on Blaster.

If resistance tests check out and still no signal you need to tear apart your buddies or wives boat for the cdi.

Good luck.

:slap:

 

[SUPERTUNE]

As per Yamaha to test ignition coil:
Primary side of ignition coil is .078-.106 ohms (Black/Orange wires)
Have seen .06 still work,
Secondary side of ignition coil is:
3.5K - 4.7K ohms
Ensure plug wires are tight in coil and not sloppy, glued from factory on OEM style and WSM stuff.
Cut back insulator on plug wire with cap removed to expose fresh wire. Crank over engine and see if you get better than 6-8 mm spark gap. If you look in engine bay at night you can sometimes see ignition shorting to other grounds as well as bleeding between wires.
(Surf rider, mask entire plug wire up, and dampen coil connection to wire in e box with silicone)
((Crazy surf rider, drill and fill ebox with oil so water does not invade your box next time you swamp it out))

In most cases the coil does not just burn out, it will go weak before shutting down unless it's cheapo wsm stuff. I have found their stuff with weak resistance #'s out of the packaging.

Try unplugging stop switch ground, the black connector for the handle bar first. It likes to ground out signal some times. Just get ready to pull plug wires or cup off intake if it lights up. Or just plug black connector back in to shut off signal to coil if it's broken.

Pulser coil and charge coil can burn up also.
You can look for pulser signal to CDI. White Red/ Black wires.
Use AC setting on meter

Book Test:
Pulser
12.06-15.4 ohms

Charge Coil
328.5-401.5 ohms

Yamaha manual does not provide voltage drop.
Inspect overall condition of wires from stator, black looking ? Some of the older yamaha's did not have tin coated copper wire, corroded easily.

Also all the wiring connections, build up with corrosion. Inspect, clean and ensure to crimp them a little before you re connect what you have pulled apart as they do not bite as well after removed from ancient boats.

Not seen on many yamaha's but magnets in flywheel can fly around if bendix bushing chips or foreign stuff is flying around. Easily checked out on Blaster.

If resistance tests check out and still no signal you need to tear apart your buddies or wives boat for the cdi.

Good luck.

I think he meant K (thousand)
C