Let go crank bearing carnage

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
Out riding today and from the start i noticed the ski was not hitting like it was yesterday. I ride around for about 5min to warm it up come back and replace the plugs take it back out for about 5min and its still running a tic slow. Bring it back in, check my tuning log book and make sure my adjusters haven't vibrated loose. Everything checked fine until i pulled the head. :dead1:

Once lifted the head the carnage looks like a wrist pin bearing or C clip let go. As i just rebuilt the topend not even 20 (10 of which was used to break it in) gallons ago from the lean jetting resulting in the piston meltdown thread. The yamaha wrist pin bearings i ordered actually turned out to be WSM and not OEM, so i figured it was the culprit.

Pulled the jugs and first check to see if all C clips were intact, they were. Removed the C clips from the bad piston and couldn't remove the wrist pin. I had to use a rubber punch to knock it out. The good piston's pin came out like butter. However both wrist bearings looked identical and untouched. (why did one come out so much easier?)

Now that both pistons are off, i was turning the crank by hand and i could tell its not spinning as smooth:grumble: When i slowly spin the front rod from TDC to BDC i can here something rattle and fall down. I have never split the cases before, mainly b/c i dont have a flywheel tool, but i'm assuming the barring are shot? IDK does this sound like something replaceable? or a unaffordable new crank on the way? I still am clueless on what got munched up? i can find zero aluminum shavings.


The carnage report
Need one ADA dome
Need one piston kit
Need crank or replacement bearings
need to figure out why i keep loosing pistons :dunno:


From the looks of it, the cylinder walls look like glass. I can still see the hone marks that were machined 2 weekends ago :banghead: however their is a chip on the intake port, looks like i can get by with a light chamfer :puppy_dog_eyes: maybe?? :puppy_dog_eyes:



The good news, i can now concentrate 100% on finding a career :wiggle:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8382.JPG
    IMG_8382.JPG
    186.6 KB · Views: 111
  • IMG_8383.JPG
    IMG_8383.JPG
    171.5 KB · Views: 133
  • IMG_8384.JPG
    IMG_8384.JPG
    192.2 KB · Views: 132
  • IMG_8389.JPG
    IMG_8389.JPG
    108.3 KB · Views: 126
  • IMG_8392.JPG
    IMG_8392.JPG
    97.4 KB · Views: 100
Last edited:

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
i dont know to much about the bottom end, can a crank bearing be replaced easily? or do i need to send it out to be pressed in and re-balanced? or brand new crank?
 

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
Looks like you should have re-done the bottom end
when you re-did the top end 20 gallons ago:rolleyes:
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
It ended up being the Center Bearing. Thanks Kurt for the flywheel tool :) Now on a part hunt to get this thing back up.

I'll be sending the jugs to CSP for a hone and a light chamfer on that ding'd port.

Maybe this time i'll get some years out of it.


Any reason this might have let go so soon after a top end rebuild? It was a new wiesco crank with hotrod rods in 2007. Only running 180psi at 40:1 benoil. I'v alsways pored oil down those case holes every time i'v had the top end off. I'd figured i'd get some years out of it?????????? any extra care i need to be taking?
 

sj1million

moto - dirt/h2o
Location
melboring, Fl
I have 'heard' of issues with hot rod cranks, but no real data to back it up. If got a little water in the bottom end at one time and it sat in there it could have rusted the bearing which could lead to failure.
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
water has be in their 3 time in the past 2 years, but alsways able to get it back up and running hard before letting it sit over night. The moisture should have been been driven out...
 

jetsport484

Are we there yet?
HEAT is an engines worst enemy. In your top end rebuild it looked like you were running lean. You said that your WOT time had been increasing. I was thinking that your main jets are too lean. Your midrange may have been a tad rich so when you had short WOT burst it did not effect much. but when those WOT burst increased in length it was getting too hot on the exhaust side. Thats what was causing your pistons to start melting down. Chances are your crank bearings were getting hot as the rest off the engine, since the middle bearing is getting heat from all directions it would make sense that would be the first to let go. Just M.O., hope this helps Griff. Good Luck.
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
i though that the hotrod cranks had good quality control... they must have hired a new guy/intern :dunno:

Update: got a big hotproducts order on the way to get me up and running. looks like i'm able to get it together at about half the cost i once through. i'm excited.
 
Location
Oregon
your in luck

Out riding today and from the start i noticed the ski was not hitting like it was yesterday. I ride around for about 5min to warm it up come back and replace the plugs take it back out for about 5min and its still running a tic slow. Bring it back in, check my tuning log book and make sure my adjusters haven't vibrated loose. Everything checked fine until i pulled the head. :dead1:

Once lifted the head the carnage looks like a wrist pin bearing or C clip let go. As i just rebuilt the topend not even 20 (10 of which was used to break it in) gallons ago from the lean jetting resulting in the piston meltdown thread. The yamaha wrist pin bearings i ordered actually turned out to be WSM and not OEM, so i figured it was the culprit.

Pulled the jugs and first check to see if all C clips were intact, they were. Removed the C clips from the bad piston and couldn't remove the wrist pin. I had to use a rubber punch to knock it out. The good piston's pin came out like butter. However both wrist bearings looked identical and untouched. (why did one come out so much easier?)

Now that both pistons are off, i was turning the crank by hand and i could tell its not spinning as smooth:grumble: When i slowly spin the front rod from TDC to BDC i can here something rattle and fall down. I have never split the cases before, mainly b/c i dont have a flywheel tool, but i'm assuming the barring are shot? IDK does this sound like something replaceable? or a unaffordable new crank on the way? I still am clueless on what got munched up? i can find zero aluminum shavings.


The carnage report
Need one ADA dome
Need one piston kit
Need crank or replacement bearings
need to figure out why i keep loosing pistons :dunno:


From the looks of it, the cylinder walls look like glass. I can still see the hone marks that were machined 2 weekends ago :banghead: however their is a chip on the intake port, looks like i can get by with a light chamfer :puppy_dog_eyes: maybe?? :puppy_dog_eyes:



The good news, i can now concentrate 100% on finding a career :wiggle:

I have just what you need a set of 35 cc domes and a sj crank with good bearing and rods 235 plus shipping
 

demolition_x

Not After Fame & Fortune
don't feel bad man. I had something similar happen and thought it was a bad crank. got a used crank, new piston, new dome and ran it again. got exactly 3 tanks of fuel in it till the exact same thing happened again. broke a rod 2 times. if you put the 2 cranks side by side they looked identical.

It could be worst. SBT cranks are cheap enough, but after seeing the one post where they screwed up one makes me wonder.

but put out the extra coin on a new one and know that its perfect so you don't go through this again down the road.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
Brian at thrustinovations had the best prices I saw on cranks.... if that helps... wasn't sure if you ordered one yet....
 
Top Bottom