Effed my b pipe screws..

[Zeon]

so anyways.. i tried contacting parrdaddy but waiting for him to reply about his new screw set for the factory b pipe. My top tuning needle screw had the threads stripped on the pipe part of the b pipe today. now it just vibrates out like its nothing. I REALLY want to ride tomorow.. any ideas guys on what i can do temp?

 

[DR3]

when my old pipe did that i glued/epoxied it in place so it couldnt back out

 

[eric__kam]

JB weld the screw into the desired depth. Then when you want to get it out heat the piss out of it with a torch.

 

[Speedfreak]

Drill it out and retap it any bolt will work as long as it sits flat on the water hole in the bottom. You can replace all of them with a new bolt and locking nut for about $.30 at ace hardware.

 

[Zeon]

nothing special really ? doesent the size of the tip matter?

 

[Waste Land]

Drill it out and retap it any bolt will work as long as it sits flat on the water hole in the bottom. You can replace all of them with a new bolt and locking nut for about $.30 at ace hardware.

Actually the water screws are tapered at the end.so remember to work them ina bit witha grinder of some kind.

 

[Speedfreak]

Isn't the tip kinda concave so that it seals flat on the interior wall of the pipe? I can't remember when I had mine out. Just make the new bolt look like the old one with your dremmel tool and things should be fine. It don't have to be precise because you are suppose to tune the pipe how you want it anyhow.

 

[eel]

Heat the head pipe to 700 degrees C, you will end up with three pristine adjuster screws and a puddle of aluminium.

 

[Frosty]

Andy, i have a brand new set of oversized replacements from Parr... if you want you can take what you need. call me later...

btw, all three of mine were f'd up last year - i send my head pipe and manifold to Chuckie for some work anyway, so he replaced them all for me. Did a killer job too.

 

[Mark44]

Drill it out and retap it any bolt will work as long as it sits flat on the water hole in the bottom. You can replace all of them with a new bolt and locking nut for about $.30 at ace hardware.

IMO
The chance of drilling and tapping the hole by hand or even in a drill press and centering the injection hole to the new threads would be slim to none trying to accomplish this without setting the pipe up on a mill and zeroing in the injection hole to the treaded pipe. The only way I see to accomplish this would be first to machine a post that will screw into the pipe and have a tip that would protrude into the injection hole then use the rod to zero in the mill other than that the chance is slim that the adjuster would seat in the water injection hole. :fing02:

Mark44

 

[Proformance1]

Send it to Chuckie! He did an awesome job on Frostys. I think I have extra screws also, but don't bother. We spent a lot of time on Newman's and it was not worth it. Torching, drilling, ez out's, welding, redrilling, tapping. SS screws in AL parts don't drill easily!!!at: At least yours is out, we could not get his out.

Although Duct tape works majic for one ride. LOL Then send it off.

 

[Speedfreak]

IMO
The chance of drilling and tapping the hole by hand or even in a drill press and centering the injection hole to the new threads would be slim to none trying to accomplish this without setting the pipe up on a mill and zeroing in the injection hole to the treaded pipe. The only way I see to accomplish this would be first to machine a post that will screw into the pipe and have a tip that would protrude into the injection hole then use the rod to zero in the mill other than that the chance is slim that the adjuster would seat in the water injection hole. :fing02:

Mark44

There are a lot of people running Pars oversized screws with no problem. You are just too much of a engineer.... :twak:


And eel isn't the headpipe water jacketed? It would be hard to heat it too hot. I can see the chamber but that is why mine is water jacketed.

 

[Mark44]

There are a lot of people running Pars oversized screws with no problem. You are just too much of a engineer.... :twak:


And eel isn't the headpipe water jacketed? It would be hard to heat it too hot. I can see the chamber but that is why mine is water jacketed.

I agree but these people probably don't know that there screws are only for looks now that is if they drilled them of center a degree or so. Most people would never know.

Mark44

 

[JonnyB]

IMO
The chance of drilling and tapping the hole by hand or even in a drill press and centering the injection hole to the new threads would be slim to none trying to accomplish this without setting the pipe up on a mill and zeroing in the injection hole to the treaded pipe. The only way I see to accomplish this would be first to machine a post that will screw into the pipe and have a tip that would protrude into the injection hole then use the rod to zero in the mill other than that the chance is slim that the adjuster would seat in the water injection hole. :fing02:

Mark44

I did mine by hand but the set up time before hand was at least 30 mins before I drilled and tapped. I then closed all of the screws hooked the head pipe up to the water hose just to make sure it was seated right. It was and I was happy. This was only on the top screw that was stripped I wouldn't want to even try the middle screw.

 

[Speedfreak]

Here is what I don't understand any screw would seal off the tiny water hole if it is cut line mine are. I don't know if mine are factory or not but they sure look like the ones that are in a new pipe. And you don't need to be exact like I posted in my first post.

Plus that is a hell of a camera phone.. it keeps impressing me...LOL

 

[keefer]

If the actual screw is not stripped then why don't you just put a helicoil in the headpipe and re use it? As to the redrilling for the oversize screws, I have seen it done with a drill press and with the pipe clamped to a X-Y table mounted on the drill press. It took some time but we did it with no problems. We were not able to get to the middle screw due to the odd angle and not having a good way to clamp it in that position. I never used the middle screw anyway so it just stayed frozen closed. Be sure and use Loctite PST on the new screws to avoid galvanic corrosion. Remove the screws at least twice a year and re apply the PST if you ride fresh water. More often for salt..

 

[Vumad]

That phone takes better pictures than my camera.

 

[Mark44]

Here is what I don't understand any screw would seal off the tiny water hole if it is cut line mine are. I don't know if mine are factory or not but they sure look like the ones that are in a new pipe. And you don't need to be exact like I posted in my first post.

Plus that is a hell of a camera phone.. it keeps impressing me...LOL

Good luck with that O and cleam your nails. :moon:

Mark44

 

[Speedfreak]

cleam your nails. :moon:

Mark44

Those are working hands... urr: watch those paper cuts

 

[keefer]

speedfreak;355069] Here is what I don't understand any screw would seal off the tiny water hole if it is cut line mine are. I don't know if mine are factory or not but they sure look like the ones that are in a new pipe. And you don't need to be exact like I posted in my first post.

Plus that is a hell of a camera phone.. it keeps impressing me...LOL

When I did my second headpipe the bottom screw hole had a bad casting flaw inside where the hole is that feeds water into the headpipe. I used a bigger drill bit to knock down the casting flaw and create a kind of seat for the new screw. The hole was a little too big for the pardaddy oversize screw that already had the end machined. I just used a common SS bolt and hand filed / shaped the end to make a mating surface. It seals great now, the only negative is since the hole is bigger it lets more water out. I had to open that screw only a little compared to the amount of a regular sized screw. Another headpipe revived!!!