I just picked up a few 55 gal drums today. I looked around the forums a bit and didn't see anything on how to build one. If you know where a forum is about this topic or have any pointers on how to build one it would be greatly appreciated.
Help with building a ramp.
- Thread starter captainfantasy
- Start date
I'll still use picnic tables when need be.
Boris
The Good Old Days
- Location
- The surf-less coast
So, none of the flatwater riders here ever built a ramp ?
I'm playing with the idea but don't know where to start.
Guess the only way to find out is to build one.
I'm playing with the idea but don't know where to start.
Guess the only way to find out is to build one.
onlyFX-1
Jace Forest...BRAP!
- Location
- Lake Travis,Texas
What kind of info are you looking for?
Boris
The Good Old Days
- Location
- The surf-less coast
Just general info from those who may have built one.
You know, what works and what doesn't.
I have a small lake behind my shop that I ride during the week and was thinking of throwing a small ramp in there. Nothing crazy high, maybe a 3 or 4 foot ramp just to break up the monotony and to help out my underpowered square get air.
I could figure out how much buoyancy I will need after the ramp is built but what material would work best for the face of the ramp. Plywood is easy to come by but I have a fear of large splinters. 2x4's may not last too long but again I have a bunch of those and can always get more.
Would a bilge pump set up to constantly wet down the face of the ramp help or would that be overkill ?
Should I even bother with a ramp and practice real tricks instead ?
How many licks till you get to the center of ?
Highroller
X-
- Location
- Sarasota, Florida
6-7 ft is a good height. You have to remember that the ramp will sink down into the water quite a bit with all the weight. Ramps are very fun but wreck skis quick. linoleum makes a good top for them. You have to brace the ramp very good for the impact of the skis. In China our aluminum ramps had to be rebuilt every 2-3 weeks because the bottom would dent after hitting it so many times. Hope this helps. Dan
Kaveman
Born in USA(not Kenya)
- Location
- texas but soon tejas
We have built two.
The convertible:
Height-6', width-6', length of face-15', frame made of 1 1/2" angle iron (galvanized). We floated it with styrofoam, 1' x 5' x 3' in the front, 18" x 5' x 4' under the lip. The face was first painted with an indoor/outdoor paint then covered with some plastic sheeting that is used to cover the walls in showers. Had kinda of a bumpy texture. We would wax the plastic before each weekend of use with a good boat wax. The ramp had wheels at the corners to load onto a flatbed trailer. It was hinged so that it would lay flat for towing down the road. This ramp was easy to tow because it didn't have the HUGE wind drag it would if it were fixed. Moving it around the different show venues was easy as well. The problem with this ramp was that we didn't have any curvature to it like a vert ramp. It was a triangle. The transition from water to ramp was brutal on the ski and the ramp as well as your legs. We used it for 4 years. After the first two outings we had to reinforce it in the center about 4' up the face from the bottom. The face began to cave in from the impact of the skis. After that we never had a problem with it. This ramp did knock a soccerball size hole in parrdaddys sj in 2000. He caught a little chop in front of it and landed on the face at about 35 mph. This ramp would give you decent height and fair distance.
Our other ramp was based on a trailer axle and had a removable tongue on it for towing. Height-7', width-6' length of face-16'. It too was made of 1 1/2" angle iron (painted). We floated it on poly 55 gallon barrels...1 crossways in the front and 1 lengthways on each side at the lip. The face was painted using a special paint (don't know what) that was supposed to be very durable. It had a very smooth transition from water to ramp and then a steep exit (guessing 50-60 degrees). It worked well but it had a learning curve as it would throw you up pretty high but not terribly far. The landings were a bit rough on the ankles and feet because the water was usually very flat and calm.
Both ramps were anchored using rope with a 5 gallon bucket 1/2 full of concrete at each corner. All the anchors were pulled out diagonally away from each corner and dropped.
Ideally a good ramp would have some of both incorporated into it. DEFINITELY use a vert style entry on the face! Have someone who knows something about structural engineering help with the designing. Also you want the ramp to be heavy so it is less likely to move when you hit it. Build it stronger than you think it needs to be. As you get more accustomed to going off of it you will go faster...that's when stuff starts to give out.
It's been several years since we used them but i will see if I can dig up some of the pictures of each and post em.
The convertible:
Height-6', width-6', length of face-15', frame made of 1 1/2" angle iron (galvanized). We floated it with styrofoam, 1' x 5' x 3' in the front, 18" x 5' x 4' under the lip. The face was first painted with an indoor/outdoor paint then covered with some plastic sheeting that is used to cover the walls in showers. Had kinda of a bumpy texture. We would wax the plastic before each weekend of use with a good boat wax. The ramp had wheels at the corners to load onto a flatbed trailer. It was hinged so that it would lay flat for towing down the road. This ramp was easy to tow because it didn't have the HUGE wind drag it would if it were fixed. Moving it around the different show venues was easy as well. The problem with this ramp was that we didn't have any curvature to it like a vert ramp. It was a triangle. The transition from water to ramp was brutal on the ski and the ramp as well as your legs. We used it for 4 years. After the first two outings we had to reinforce it in the center about 4' up the face from the bottom. The face began to cave in from the impact of the skis. After that we never had a problem with it. This ramp did knock a soccerball size hole in parrdaddys sj in 2000. He caught a little chop in front of it and landed on the face at about 35 mph. This ramp would give you decent height and fair distance.
Our other ramp was based on a trailer axle and had a removable tongue on it for towing. Height-7', width-6' length of face-16'. It too was made of 1 1/2" angle iron (painted). We floated it on poly 55 gallon barrels...1 crossways in the front and 1 lengthways on each side at the lip. The face was painted using a special paint (don't know what) that was supposed to be very durable. It had a very smooth transition from water to ramp and then a steep exit (guessing 50-60 degrees). It worked well but it had a learning curve as it would throw you up pretty high but not terribly far. The landings were a bit rough on the ankles and feet because the water was usually very flat and calm.
Both ramps were anchored using rope with a 5 gallon bucket 1/2 full of concrete at each corner. All the anchors were pulled out diagonally away from each corner and dropped.
Ideally a good ramp would have some of both incorporated into it. DEFINITELY use a vert style entry on the face! Have someone who knows something about structural engineering help with the designing. Also you want the ramp to be heavy so it is less likely to move when you hit it. Build it stronger than you think it needs to be. As you get more accustomed to going off of it you will go faster...that's when stuff starts to give out.
It's been several years since we used them but i will see if I can dig up some of the pictures of each and post em.