SXR aftermarket ignition battery draining?

[Proformance1]

What are you guys running to disconnect your aftermarket ignitions? I found out the hard way, if you leave them hooked up it kills your battery. Should I disconnect it right at the battery with some type of switch, because unhooking the battery is a PITA!

 

[Matt_E]

MSD sells a nice quick disconnect.

I run an MSD total loss, which has a switch on it. When it's off, it's off.
I can leave it sitting for four months, even start it every week, no problem.

What's your ignition?

 

[NEIL31]

What ignition are you running ? mine doesnt drain the battery its one of waxheads inferno ignition, works excellent easy to change curve and ecwi no seperate on switch needed and good battery life on total loss.
hot products do some quick release battery connecors pt. no. 59-0527
http://www.hotproductsusa.com/PDFs/Hot_Products_2006
_Catalog_Electrical.pdf

or you could add a switch to the fuse circuit or just pull the fues?

regards Neil

 

[Scorn800]

I had a bad Advent box that would not shut off

 

[Proformance1]

It's the new Mitusubishi CDI R-9

 

[Matt_E]

Just put a switch on it.

 

[waxhead]

im not sure why they dont turn off i am sure they would
Are you sure its your ignition
the inferno waits for a signal from the flywheel before it turns on and so it will not drain the battery

 

[Proformance1]

I called and asked on it and Blowsion said that most aftermarket ignitions do this. The only way I can think of to shut off the current is to disconnect the battery. Problem is that it is a pretty big cable, I think it's 6ga wire and probably needs to handle ~500 amps for the starter? I just thought maybe I am missing something here and you guys would be like just throw a switch in going to the ignitor, but I do not know where to put it as the electrical box is all enclosed. I just figured that this was a common issue. Maybe I'll call them back and get some more details on how to disconnect it. They suggested just putting a wing nut on the positive post on the battery. On the SXR's the battery is back by the firewall and getting to it would be a PITA, but if that is what I have to do I guess I'll just have to get used to it.

 

[Watcon]

Battery disconnect

We stock the MSD quick disconnect.
http://www.watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/MSD_Quick_Connector.htm

 

[NEIL31]

i believe the cdi takes its power from the back of the starter relay post (the one the main positive lead off the battery goes too) and through a 10 amp fuse under the fuse cover either remove fuse or fit a waterproof switch on this red wire

pm me if you need wiring diagram

regards Neil

 

[Proformance1]

i believe the cdi takes its power from the back of the starter relay post (the one the main positive lead off the battery goes too) and through a 10 amp fuse under the fuse cover either remove fuse or fit a waterproof switch on this red wire

pm me if you need wiring diagram

regards Neil

Thanks, I've got a copy of the wiring diagram. After researching most of the alternatives, I thinking of going with a Blowsion rotaty style water proof switch, maybe mounting it to the dash so I don't have to open the hood all the time.
I like the switch idea, because it's easier to use without opening the hood and I can leave my bilges running on the rare days I leave it in the water for a couple hours.
Ok, so if I do it with the switch, I think the SXR electrical box has another "port" for connections to go through it but if I remember it isn't drilled out. Is this my best option for going through the case? Maybe drill it out an get onother black cap with the rubber grommet that goes through it? The only other place I could think of was the fuse screw on cap.

 

[Mark44]

Put a seal tight connector through the rubber grommet from the heat sensor.

Mark44

 

[Frosty]

Put a seal tight connector through the rubber grommet from the heat sensor.

Mark44

Good call bro.. you don't need the heat sensor from the exhaust any more Brian... no sense leaving it zip tied in there.

 

[NEIL31]

thats how i run my h2o solenoid wires out through the the rubber grommet where the ambient sensor and over heat come out

 

[Proformance1]

That's a great idea but I ran my dial adjusters for the 9 ignitor selections through there already. There is another one below it on the case that should be able to be drilled out. Maybe I can buy the threadded part, cap and rubber grommet from some place?

 

[Frosty]

http://216.37.204.203/Kawasaki_OEM/KawasakiPWC.asp?Type=13&A=6&B=22

Looks like you can get it pretty cheap... these looks like what you need.

Qty Part Number Description Price
11012-3005 CAP $2.55
59071-3001 JOINT $3.67
92071-527 GROMMET $2.95
670B2016 "0" RING,16MM $0.67
SubTotal $9.84

 

[Proformance1]

Just ordered up the cap, joint and grommet parts from World of Powersports, hopefully they won't be too long coming in. Thanks TXJFrosty. Hopefully I'll make up my mind on the switch next week and get that ordered. I want a switch that has a casing around the wires like the handlebar mounted bilge switches. That way the grommet to the electrical box shouldn't leak.

Update: I pulled the box out tonight and the lower "port" could be used but it has a casting reinforcement running through it. I may drill it out or run two wires through the upper port with the 4 wires on the start stop switch. I'll have to see what the grommet looks like when it comes in to make up my mind.
The red wire going to the fuse is definitely the place to connect the switch. It does gets the power from behind the starter relay. Now I just have to make sure the switch can handle a max of 10 amps and I should be set!