Dual Cooling, factory pipe water jet settings?

After reading the tech faq about dual cooling, I've decided to run separate circuits (see pic).
I read the water jets need to be closed more. Can somebody who is running this set-up give me a good starting point for my water jet settings? I'm running a tnt pipe btw
Thanks!
 

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RMBC Freeride

Vintage
Site Supporter
Location
Pueblo, CO
I run a TNT as well, but I run my dual cooling the "conventional" way.. two into the manifold.

I'm not 100% sure on my screw settings, but I know the bottom is closed. i think the middle is closed too, and the top is like 1/2 or 5/8 open. However, I am always skeptical when people swap water screw settings since the adjuster screws are not tapered like a carb screw, so how accurate really is the turn number??? And it all varies by water pressure (set-up)...
 

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
I run a TNT as well, but I run my dual cooling the "conventional" way.. two into the manifold.

I'm not 100% sure on my screw settings, but I know the bottom is closed. i think the middle is closed too, and the top is like 1/2 or 5/8 open. However, I am always skeptical when people swap water screw settings since the adjuster screws are not tapered like a carb screw, so how accurate really is the turn number??? And it all varies by water pressure (set-up)...[/QUOTE]

This is very true, I reallized this more so this past week. I had a blaster mod chamber on my sons SJ and I did 2 things:
1) Added true dual water (2 lines in from pump) instead of one coming in and splitting.

2) Changed the chamber from Blaster Mod to SJ Mod chamber.

I did not touch the water set screws and I ran more water to the Blaster Mod chamber than the SJ Mod as they seemed to run hotter. The boat ran great on bottom, but then flattened out considerably right at mid and through top. I am about 90% sure this is due to too much water to the pipe. I am 1.25 turns out on top screw, .500 turns out on center and closed on bottom. I think the major difference is the water pressure added by the actual dual water.
:rolleyes:
 
Running a cooling line straight into the head pipe is going to have more pressure than the conventional way. That's why they say to close them. I think Wax said to run them all almost completely closed.
Edit: wrote chamber instead of head pipe
 
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sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
BTW, my water routing is as follows:

2 3/8" lines from pump to mnfld.
one 3/8" line off front of ADA head to pisser and tee'd to stinger w/ a 2.5 needle seat in stinger line to reduce amount of water to stinger.
A 3/8" line off back of head to bottom rear inlet on headpipe.
A 3/8" line off top front of headpipe to pisser.
 

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
[QUOTE=standupjetski_com;233060]Running a cooling line straight into the chamber is going to have more pressure than the conventional way. That's why they say to close them. I think Wax said to run them all almost completely closed.[/QUOTE]

I am confused by this????? Where exactly can you run cooling line to the chamber other than the stinger? On a B-pipe that is?
 

RMBC Freeride

Vintage
Site Supporter
Location
Pueblo, CO
Running a cooling line straight into the chamber is going to have more pressure than the conventional way. That's why they say to close them. I think Wax said to run them all almost completely closed.

Just watch your temps. I know Paul (Jr. - LPW) likes to run his TNT extremely hot. But its hell on couplers. I keep mine a little cooler than that.
 

Jr.

Standing Tall
Staff member
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Hot-Lanta
I have done quite a bit of "testing the waters" on water injection on TnT pipes. They like it hot!

Here is what I ended up with!!!
For everyone else, this doesn't work on regular chambers!!!!! Don't do it!!!

I run conventional duel cooling to the ex manifold, rear head outlet goes overboard. front to bottom of headpipe, top goes to a T fitting & overboard, downleg of T goes thru 4mm restrictor to stinger fitting
all adj screws closed!................ But, I have a 1/4" line coming from a incoming water line to a ECWI injection type spray fitting installed in the head pipe. I have this going thru a 120 main jet to control flow.
another trick was to have the chamber ceramic coated to hold more heat in.................... it works!!!!
The secret part of this equation is the location of the sprayer!!!!!!
It makes a big differance where it's located...............
Call me to find out more!! :cool2:

Ski ya, Paul
 
I have done quite a bit of "testing the waters" on water injection on TnT pipes. They like it hot!

Here is what I ended up with!!!
For everyone else, this doesn't work on regular chambers!!!!! Don't do it!!!

I run conventional duel cooling to the ex manifold, rear head outlet goes overboard. front to bottom of headpipe, top goes to a T fitting & overboard, downleg of T goes thru 4mm restrictor to stinger fitting
all adj screws closed!................ But, I have a 1/4" line coming from a incoming water line to a ECWI injection type spray fitting installed in the head pipe. I have this going thru a 120 main jet to control flow.
another trick was to have the chamber ceramic coated to hold more heat in.................... it works!!!!
The secret part of this equation is the location of the sprayer!!!!!!
It makes a big differance where it's located...............
Call me to find out more!! :cool2:

Ski ya, Paul
I may try this. But I don't have ECWI yet. Thanks for checkin out this thread!
 

RiverRat

.......
Location
Louisville, Ky
I have found each motor to be slightly different, however, I prefer to keep the top screw closed and just use the middle and bottom screw to tune the exhaust. I run my exhaust pretty warm which is why I decided to have the exhaust coated and eliminate the exhaust hose that goes from the waterbox to bulkhead. Also run a FCV
 
That spray fitting trick works on oem exhaust also, we use them on SD's, just make sure the spray is directed towards the exit of the exhaust, and not the cylinder...

Steve
 
I have done quite a bit of "testing the waters" on water injection on TnT pipes. They like it hot!
Here is what I ended up with!!!
For everyone else, this doesn't work on regular chambers!!!!! Don't do it!!!
I run conventional duel cooling to the ex manifold, rear head outlet goes overboard. front to bottom of headpipe, top goes to a T fitting & overboard, downleg of T goes thru 4mm restrictor to stinger fitting
all adj screws closed!................ But, I have a 1/4" line coming from a incoming water line to a ECWI injection type spray fitting installed in the head pipe. I have this going thru a 120 main jet to control flow.
another trick was to have the chamber ceramic coated to hold more heat in.................... it works!!!!
The secret part of this equation is the location of the sprayer!!!!!!
It makes a big differance where it's located...............
Call me to find out more!! :cool2:

Ski ya, Paul
Bump
I took my ski for a rip for the first time this year. I installed the ecwi sprayer and swapped out a solas concord 13/17 to a Skat Swirl 12/17.
:woot:
That injector mod made a huge difference! It also made the exhaust a little raspier :Banane01: I let a couple guys ride it and they couldn't even control it. Very happy. If you run a tnt pipe you should try this set-up. The injector is only $20.
Thanks Paul!
 

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