Rebuild Struggles
- Thread starter Mayor118
- Start date
I would have to ask someone about a leak test. Not sure how to do that.
I was going to check that as well.
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
You'll have to remove the carbs and exhaust. You can use expandable freeze plugs to plug the openings or make a block off plate. Then use a hand held pump like for checking popoff, connect that to the pulse fitting on the engine, pump the engine up to 8-9 psi and let it sit for 10 or so minutes. You can spray windex around case halves and gaskets to check for leaks.
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Sounds to me like the key slipped out when installing the flywheel. I'd put it back together and see what happens.
Well it was the woodruff key. Took the chance of putting it back together since the key was stuck to the flywheel. It could have fell out when I removed it but had some black around its location and when pulled off the flywheel there a clean spot where it sat.
After putting everything back fingers crossed it fired right up and had a good ideal. So happy the ski is up and running. It’s been a project for sure.
Want to thank Some area riders that gave me support building it back up and all the great folks on here. It’s a great community and I appreciate all the comments!
One thing through this process I noticed my compression came up. The front is 190 and the rear is 200. The idea of this boat was to be an old style limited class with just bolt on and run pump gas. This puts me in the avgas zone.
Probably change the domes out to lower the compression but seeing a spread between cylinders what would you guys do? Was the rule not a 5% differential is normal but on the higher end? Thoughts on this would be helpful.
After putting everything back fingers crossed it fired right up and had a good ideal. So happy the ski is up and running. It’s been a project for sure.
Want to thank Some area riders that gave me support building it back up and all the great folks on here. It’s a great community and I appreciate all the comments!
One thing through this process I noticed my compression came up. The front is 190 and the rear is 200. The idea of this boat was to be an old style limited class with just bolt on and run pump gas. This puts me in the avgas zone.
Probably change the domes out to lower the compression but seeing a spread between cylinders what would you guys do? Was the rule not a 5% differential is normal but on the higher end? Thoughts on this would be helpful.
Last edited:
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
I'm running 195psi per hole in my 735 with pump gas. This is with 35cc domes. If you're running 35cc domes you should be fine with pump gas. It's fully ported with all of thr bolt ons and have put 5 seasons on it like that and it's still running excellent.
I have burned pistons with “pump gas” compression. Make sure your ignition timing isn’t too advanced and the carbs are set rich of peak rpm.
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
It’s a fresh build the compression numbers should even out with some run time
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Just put on a thicker head gasket.
looking for the paperwork now but I think I ordered 35cc domes that are currently on the ski. They rate them at 185lbs.
If 192cc is still pump gas I should be ordering 36cc which calls out 177lbs. I’m making the assumption if this rebuild pushed me 10lbs above the 177lbs turn into 187lbs and I should be good. I’m asking the question as I do the math since I’m unsure of what the exact outcome will be.
Any thoughts?
If 192cc is still pump gas I should be ordering 36cc which calls out 177lbs. I’m making the assumption if this rebuild pushed me 10lbs above the 177lbs turn into 187lbs and I should be good. I’m asking the question as I do the math since I’m unsure of what the exact outcome will be.
Any thoughts?
- Location
- Savannah, GA
I would check the compression with a decent gauge, I would not trust Harbor Freight
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
I thought 36cc is the stock dome volume??
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
If you're running a thinner .010 base gasket, that will slightly raise compression. The factory gasket is .020. I'm running a .010 gasket in my engine.
This is an ADA head with domes that can be switched out. You might be right on the stock set up?
The head is an ADA so o-rings and all other gaskets are OEM.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Glad you found it and reported back.
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
What I meant was 36cc is 36cc..........won't matter on the brand, or even the squish band for that matter. If it's 36cc on a 701, it should only make around 175psi. So that's sort of wierd.