Super Jet Superjet crack need suggestions
- Thread starter Cbking
- Start date
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Grind out the damage and fill with filler (epoxy and microsphere/cabosil)
Glass the entire inside of the hull on the side from the bottom to the top as one large single piece of glass (several layers). See threads where people have reinforced.
Best to cover it on the outside with glass but that will alter your body lines. Depends on how important that is to you.
Reinforce under the hand pole while you're in there doing the job.
Glass the entire inside of the hull on the side from the bottom to the top as one large single piece of glass (several layers). See threads where people have reinforced.
Best to cover it on the outside with glass but that will alter your body lines. Depends on how important that is to you.
Reinforce under the hand pole while you're in there doing the job.
- Location
- south dakota
do as vumad said.. glass the inside, fill the outside... only thing I'd do different than he stated is add chopped glass to your epoxy/cabosil mix.. just adds a little extra structure without raising the surface like mat glass would do...
- Location
- south dakota
did you groove that out at all? from the looks of it to me that repair is just going to delaminate.. as far as filling the bond gap on the inside.. epoxy resin filler and glass over would work.. just make sure you sand it good with nothing finer than 80 grit... and overlay your glass no less than a few inches above and below the line... personally I'd cut a strip of mat to go about 1/2" each side of it, then overlay a larger piece over that... but that's just me... other guys might have other ways of doing it...
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
For the filler on the inner bond rail gap, you can use either foam or epoxy based filler. The filler is going to be stronger, but require more prep and add more weight. 4lb foam would save you weight, reduce the prep time, but also provide less strength. Considering you have a broken rail, the filler might be the better choice. If it were my ski, which isn't broken, I'd probably use foam, but your ski is broken.
The filler you make yourself. Buy Glass Microspeheres and Cab-o-sil. Start with a 50/50 mix of the two and mix to a peanutbutter consistancy. You may change the microsphere/cabosil mix some to either get better consistancy or better sandability. The microspheres make the mix more sandable, the cabosil makes the mix more of the consistancy you want. Note: When I say 50/50, I am talking strictly about these 2 parts, there are 3 parts to the mix, obviously the epoxy, that is excluded from my 50/50 mix directions.
I personnaly work with about 2-4 oz of epoxy at a time. I add the fillers until I get the mix I want. Note that 2oz of epoxy will yield 6-8 oz of finished filler. DO NOT add too much filler and dry out the mix. You want peanutbutter or a little wetter.
As far as the glass, I can't make a specific recommendation as I have not done that job. There are 3 kinds of glass. Chop, woven (mat) and biax (combo). Biax is the only one considered to be structural glass. I almost exclusively use biax.
More thin layers are stronger than fewer thicker layers. Thicker cloth is also brutal on your scissors. I tend to work more with a 12 oz biax over the 17 oz boax (ie. 3 layers of 12 over 2 layers of 17). The thinner stuff is also easier to work. However, it is also more time consuming. When I work with heavier cloth, it is when I am trying to save time, such as when I did my X2 hood, and I needed a lot of strength around the steering. I used heavier glass to get the job done quicker (I went like 1/4" thick around the steering), but that doesn't apply to you. I do not know how much glass you should do for this job... Weight is more important than strength to me, I'm not going that big, so I have no reinforcing anywhere.
Disclosure as normal... I am not an expert. You are responsible for making sure you do your homework.
The filler you make yourself. Buy Glass Microspeheres and Cab-o-sil. Start with a 50/50 mix of the two and mix to a peanutbutter consistancy. You may change the microsphere/cabosil mix some to either get better consistancy or better sandability. The microspheres make the mix more sandable, the cabosil makes the mix more of the consistancy you want. Note: When I say 50/50, I am talking strictly about these 2 parts, there are 3 parts to the mix, obviously the epoxy, that is excluded from my 50/50 mix directions.
I personnaly work with about 2-4 oz of epoxy at a time. I add the fillers until I get the mix I want. Note that 2oz of epoxy will yield 6-8 oz of finished filler. DO NOT add too much filler and dry out the mix. You want peanutbutter or a little wetter.
As far as the glass, I can't make a specific recommendation as I have not done that job. There are 3 kinds of glass. Chop, woven (mat) and biax (combo). Biax is the only one considered to be structural glass. I almost exclusively use biax.
More thin layers are stronger than fewer thicker layers. Thicker cloth is also brutal on your scissors. I tend to work more with a 12 oz biax over the 17 oz boax (ie. 3 layers of 12 over 2 layers of 17). The thinner stuff is also easier to work. However, it is also more time consuming. When I work with heavier cloth, it is when I am trying to save time, such as when I did my X2 hood, and I needed a lot of strength around the steering. I used heavier glass to get the job done quicker (I went like 1/4" thick around the steering), but that doesn't apply to you. I do not know how much glass you should do for this job... Weight is more important than strength to me, I'm not going that big, so I have no reinforcing anywhere.
Disclosure as normal... I am not an expert. You are responsible for making sure you do your homework.
Last edited:
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Buy metal rollers. You need one about 1/2" x 4" for laying the big areas. You need a corner roller if you are going to be getting into tighter areas, but you probably don't need one for this job (1.5" would probably be a good size).
Be sure to take your rollers apart and clean them in acetone. Do not leave them in the acetone as the acetone will evaporate and the epoxy will be left on your tool, ruining it. A bench grinder with a wire brush works good for cleaning your rollers (the best choice is to clean them very well with acetone, but acetone is expensive, assuming you are going the budget route, I usually just clean them visually, when when dry, hit with the bench brush.)
Yogurt cups, butter tubs, etc, are great for these jobs. Use your measuring cups to measure, then pour into the yogurt cup (not wimpy stuff like activa, but the stuff greek yogurt comes in). When it's dry, just tap it with a screw driver handle. the resin will pop out and you can reuse it. If you have a lot of resin, it will destroy the cup, no loss...
Just some money saving tips from a poor guy.
Oh, get some disposable plastic applicators for putting your filler onto the bond line. These applicators are waxy like the butter cups. It's best to clean them with acetone, but that costs money. I leave some filler on the applicator, and when it dries, the applicator flexes, breaks the epoxy off (doesn't stick to the wax) and you have a clean tool with no acetone used.
Be sure to take your rollers apart and clean them in acetone. Do not leave them in the acetone as the acetone will evaporate and the epoxy will be left on your tool, ruining it. A bench grinder with a wire brush works good for cleaning your rollers (the best choice is to clean them very well with acetone, but acetone is expensive, assuming you are going the budget route, I usually just clean them visually, when when dry, hit with the bench brush.)
Yogurt cups, butter tubs, etc, are great for these jobs. Use your measuring cups to measure, then pour into the yogurt cup (not wimpy stuff like activa, but the stuff greek yogurt comes in). When it's dry, just tap it with a screw driver handle. the resin will pop out and you can reuse it. If you have a lot of resin, it will destroy the cup, no loss...
Just some money saving tips from a poor guy.
Oh, get some disposable plastic applicators for putting your filler onto the bond line. These applicators are waxy like the butter cups. It's best to clean them with acetone, but that costs money. I leave some filler on the applicator, and when it dries, the applicator flexes, breaks the epoxy off (doesn't stick to the wax) and you have a clean tool with no acetone used.
Last edited:
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
I fill the crack with marine epoxy looks pretty good now. There are no visible gaps
I can't see very well from the picture, but it looks like you didn't prep enough. Did you put epoxy over the paint?
Not it is hard to tell but it was sanded.
- Location
- South Florida
Just say no to superjet crack
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Glass is like $5/yd. I would just measure it out, buy a few yards of glass, estimate your resin needs, buy a bit more than you think you need, and do the job. Learn something along the way.
If you are looking for fast and easy, you can buy the Blowsion kit I guess.
If you are looking for fast and easy, you can buy the Blowsion kit I guess.
