650/X-2 kawasaki 650sx trim system

hey guys i am new to this site, but i joined cuzz i had a question and figured someone had to have the answer. i was wondering if you could take the trim system off of a kawasaki x2 and put it on a650 sx/ how hard is it and has any one done it?
 
Yes im pretty sure it can be done. Im running one on my 750sx. You just have to fabricate a little bracket to bolt onto the pump to hold the trim cable in place, figure out how to run the cable from the bars to the nozzle, and then a return spring.
 
I ordered the nozzle off eBay 2 day and am waiting 4 it 2 get in if u could upload some pics of where your cable comes out the back of your ski and what cable u used that would b help full
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Yes, you can. There are several steps involved. This is a large project and one you should carefully consider before doing. There are other methods than my own, but this method worked for my application.

My example comes from my X2 which is still being prototyped. It is back on the water and I have had no issues as of yet.

You will need...
- Complete through hull fitting
- 650 sx steering cable (in addition to the one you already have)
- A yamaha QSTS control bracket.
- Cables and controls to connect to the bracket. (I am using the complete Yamaha QSTS, but you can use different cables and a lever pull)
- X2 brass trim connector fitting (part that connects trim cable to the control rod)
- Threaded rod (I cut the head off a stainless steel bolt).
- 1/2" PVC tubing
- Misc tools and supplies (heat gun, 5200, fiberglass, epoxy, etc)

A few steps will be different than my build. I will try to customize my advice for your build.

Start by obtaining the through hull fittings. The X2 contains 4, but I only needed 2. I removed all 4 and clean them by soaking in Chem Dip. I do not know if you can buy these new. They are a mofo to get out of the hull. The SX only has 1, so you will need to find 1 more.

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Next, cut out your tray to access the pump area. The image included is after I have already finished removing the old system and installing the new system. You will need to select the proper spot to drill the hole to install the second fitting. Use a heat gun to shape your PVC. The PVC is slightly larger than the fitting, so I used 5200 on the fitting and secured with a hose clamp. I allowed it to dry before final installation into the hull. I used a combination of 5200 and thickened epoxy.

This is a good time to refoam your ski, add foot holds, and upgrade your cooling system. I when to 3/8" thin walled 304 stainless tubing when I did this job, and I get some serious cooling flow now. There are 3 tubes, and one is flush to the hull in the back. I changed this out to a full sized tube so my X2 is now set up for true duel cooling with a fully functioning stock siphon bilge. The 3rd tube is not yet installed in this picture. The SX will be much easier to work on. The X2 is very tight and it was extremely hard to prep and reinstall cleanly.

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Here is the inside of the hull. The tubes have been cut shorten and the area was prepped before securing the tubes. This picture was taken during mock up. This is not final assembly but you get the idea. It should look the same as the steering tube.

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You have probably realized these are not in order... Here is a picture of the mock up of the back end. You can see where the trim and steering controls come out of the hull. These controls are in the exact same place as the stock X2 controls. The SX will probably accomidate a very similar design. Steering on top, trim on the bottom. (note, the hull is upside down, so the cables are reversed, trim on top in this picture)

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Here is the picture of the mock up of my steering. The 650sx cable lines up perfect with the X2 trim. However, the SX cable is too short for the X2 steering. I hear you can use a SXR cable for more throw, but I think you still have to extend it. The top is my steering. The piece of brass is the X2 trim connector from under the steering. It is connected to the ball joint piece by the thread rod (cut down bolt) i was speaking of.

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Lastly is the mechanism behind the trim system. There are a lot of options in this category. For me, I maintained the complete system. These parts are actually from a wave raider. The cables are shorter on the raider than the GP1200. I have not done this job on a SX before so you need to think about the cables you need. I think your best bet may be to use a X2 trim cable, and GP1200 trim cables. There are many options. On my X2, at least for now, I have Yamaha QSTS for both up and down trim. For you 650sx, you will probably want your trim on a lever pull. To do this you need a lever and a different cable from the lever to the mechanism. You're going to have to figure this out on your own. In any case, the Yamaha QSTS bracket works very well. If you use a lever, simply connect your cable to one side, and put a spring on the other side.

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EDIT: 1/2" PVC tubing.
 
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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
You also have the option of just drilling a hole, shoving a tube through to the front, and running a very long cable sealed with a bunch of 5200. That method wasn't acceptable for my expectation. That method would be easier and could function sufficiently however.
 
i have read that the just drilling a hole method had leaking problems on the 750sx i think i get most of what u were saying on your build but some things are still a little fuzzy. i get that i need a x2 nozzle and that i need another steering cable as 2 act as the trim cable. i do not plan on trimming down just up so i dont know if that changes any thing. and y did u have 2 cutt out your foot trey? i figured i would have 2 take out a little off mine 2 make clearance for the nozzle 2 move up. i also wondered how that brass fitting that goes into the hull sealed? cant water get in those? really appreciate all this info u have given me it will make this a lot simpler to do.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
i have read that the just drilling a hole method had leaking problems on the 750sx i think i get most of what u were saying on your build but some things are still a little fuzzy.

They can leak and those kinds of cables can break. They are harder to replaced because they are glued in. That is why I didn't use that method.

i get that i need a x2 nozzle and that i need another steering cable as 2 act as the trim cable.

correct

i do not plan on trimming down just up so i dont know if that changes any thing.

You can still install the trim tube the same, and use the X2 trim nozzle and the GP mechanism. However, which cables and lever to use will be for you to figure out. I spent a very long time working out the mechanics of my X2. You can figure out the SX. I told you the hard part.

and y did u have 2 cutt out your foot trey?

You cut out the foot tray so you can access the area inside of it to put in the tube and fittings.

i figured i would have 2 take out a little off mine 2 make clearance for the nozzle 2 move up.

That has nothing to do with anything I have described. You can cut that area, but that has nothing to do with installing the trim.

i also wondered how that brass fitting that goes into the hull sealed? cant water get in those?

I explained that. You put it together and glue it in. It wont leak anymore than the stock steering.

really appreciate all this info u have given me it will make this a lot simpler to do.



i also get that i need a trim lever but dont know how it hooks up yet or any thing like that

You have to figure it out. Try a bicycle shop.

and what is 5200?

It's like Caulk, but it's much much stronger and water proof.

See the red above. I think you might be biting off more than you can chew with the kind of questions you are asking. Read over some build threads and start on some smaller projects. This one was not easy to figure out or do.
 
ya prolly am bighting offf 2 much that i culd chew but im really just trying 2 gather the info my dad will b the 1 doing all the work. he just doesnt know how a computer works. my last question is how hard is it to put the fiberglass that u cut back together when u r done?
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
ya prolly am bighting offf 2 much that i culd chew but im really just trying 2 gather the info my dad will b the 1 doing all the work. he just doesnt know how a computer works. my last question is how hard is it to put the fiberglass that u cut back together when u r done?

Depends on how you do it. You have to do a good job planning and preping.

Example, if you cut out the tray in one piece, you can simply glass it back in as one piece. You need to know what areas you are working on and how you plan to do them.

So, if you preplan to upgrade your cooling and control tubes, change to a rear exhaust, and put in foot holds and a surf strap, and have every step planned out, it's no big deal.

I probably have more time spent sitting on the stool staring at my X2 than most people have in their builds. Take your time and plan it out before you ever make your 1st cut.

That mod I just wrote up, was weeks of planning and a few dozen hours of work, and you read it in 10 minutes. Haha. You don't even want to know the kind of the in labor and planning I have in my X2. It's baffeling.
 
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i think im gonna wait till next winter 2 tear into the fiber glass work. ill ride it the way it is but at least now i can start getting my supplies and plan it out better so i dont get stuck not ridding this summer. thanks for all the info it really helped
 
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