Custom/Hybrid Ace hardware.

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I bought some m4 bolts and washers to put on the rear sponsons I made. I took them off for Daytona and one nut got stuck, so I had to cut the bolt. Brand new, 2 fresh water rides about 2 weeks old. Bolted on once. Got stuck removing it.

I just bought a m6 bolt to replace the bolt on the gp1200 bars I am putting on my x2 that holds the qsts in place. It went in fine. Now it won't come out. It came out halfway and now it is just stuck. Went in with minimal effort, the went to take it right back out. Can't get any newer than that.

I get that maybe with this new bolt the bars could have been damaged and damaged the bolt, but the other bolt was in one of their nuts.

Has anyone else had problems with this? Does ace have low quality stainless hardware or am I doing something wrong here?
 
I've had problems with aluminum pissers and stainless nuts on them. Could not get them off for the life of me. Some chemical reaction between the two? Idk my dad had explained to me what happens when stainless and aluminum mix but I wasn't listening.
 

todc207

Drama diffuser
Location
Metamora MI
We have that problem all the time at work with stainless fasteners. You have to use a Locktite stick anti seze to prevent it. Even 1/2" and up corse threads will do it if they are super tight. It looks like a big lip stick tube and is about $10.00 but should last you a super long time.
 
stainless on stainless = always use anti seize, we are almost all stainless hardware at work and you can always tell when you go in behind someone at work who forgot to use it...
 

NVJAY775

My home away from home.
We have that problem all the time at work with stainless fasteners. You have to use a Locktite stick anti seze to prevent it. Even 1/2" and up corse threads will do it if they are super tight. It looks like a big lip stick tube and is about $10.00 but should last you a super long time.
Same here. Local machinist told me about it and haven't had a problem since.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I can see this as a problem after salt exposure and corrosion. This m6 bolt that is stuck went in and isn't coming back out 10 mins later. Wtf.

The other m4 was on the boat for 2 weeks in the fresh twice and wouldn't come apart. Why would I need to use anti sieze 10 mins after using it for the 1st time...

Never had any thing like this with oem going hardware. Years of abuse on some of this hardware, comes right apart and cleans up like new.
 
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Location
hhh
Then you must have corrosion in the female threads or the wrong thread pitch. Only real explanation to it honestly
 

naticen

Site Supporter
Location
wilmington, nc
It's very common from over-torquing, but can happen to properly torqued stainless as well. The threads are softer and get messed up when it gets tightened down. As stated, Anti-sieze helps the threads slide smoother on each other. It'll also help with corrosion down the road which always causes problems, especially with dissimilar metals.

Edit: OEM stainless is probably better quality than your local hardware store. If you run a magnet over a batch of stainless, sometimes it'll pick some of them up if the metals weren't mixed thoroughly or in the right amounts. There are also different grades of stainless that are softer or harder and better at resisting rust. This will all factor into whether it'll be stuck the instant you tighten it up or not.
 
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I can see this as a problem after salt exposure and corrosion. This m6 bolt that is stuck went in and isn't coming back out 10 mins later. Wtf.

The other m4 was on the boat for 2 weeks in the fresh twice and wouldn't come apart. Why would I need to use anti sieze 10 mins after using it for the 1st time...

Never had any thing like this with oem going hardware. Years of abuse on some of this hardware, comes right apart and cleans up like new.

I had threads gall up on me and cause this when I was aligning my pump and tightening the bolts by hand. Started using the anti seize and haven't had a problem since. I was told stainless threads have a tendency to gall if you don't use an anti seize or something similar.
 

tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
honestly Mike, how many times have I said it? "Always put loctite on everything with a thread!" my guess would be the reason your stock hardware never sticks is there is residual thread sealant that is giving you that surface protectant? No matter as your ski will see salt sooner or later you should have put something on the threads anyway.

at least now you have made the mistake of making this knowledge wordwide and so you can count on a slap upside the head the next time you complain about a stuck bolt. lol

Pinellas Fastener (on 118th & 19) sells loctite, antiseize AND stainless for good prices. no matter the cost it still has to be worth it compared to removing broken bolts!
 

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
I had threads gall up on me and cause this when I was aligning my pump and tightening the bolts by hand. Started using the anti seize and haven't had a problem since. I was told stainless threads have a tendency to gall if you don't use an anti seize or something similar.

You would think that since Vumad lives in "known" saltwater territory,he would know this! l'm a freshwater guy but still hit the beach several times a year and l always use Lucas red n tacky.

And please Vumad don't write your dissertation on my behalf!:Banane09:
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I use loctite on everything. I just usually don't use it during mock up. It seems counter productive to put something on a clean thread I am going to remove on 5 minutes. I guess that's a mistake I wont make in the future.

You would think that since Vumad lives in "known" saltwater territory,he would know this! l'm a freshwater guy but still hit the beach several times a year and l always use Lucas red n tacky.

And please Vumad don't write your dissertation on my behalf!:Banane09:

Here's my dissertation on your behalf...



Hope you liked it.
 
What's the best anti-sieze for prolonged salt water use, since were on the subject

lucas "red n tacky" grease...fortified with antiseize


never ever ever had a bolt seize using this almost 10 years of 100% salt...our entire crew uses this exclusively

availible at any autoparts store




the ONLY loctite on skis in st. auggie are on the RRP steering systems
 

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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
lucas "red n tacky" grease...fortified with antiseize


never ever ever had a bolt seize using this almost 10 years of 100% salt...our entire crew uses this exclusively

availible at any autoparts store




the ONLY loctite on skis in st. auggie are on the RRP steering systems

I have some graphite based anti-seize that I was using until all the local guys told me to use loctite. I use blue loctite on almost everything. I see no harm in using anti seize... Should start a poll, antiseize vs loctite.
 

naticen

Site Supporter
Location
wilmington, nc
lucas "red n tacky" grease...fortified with antiseize


never ever ever had a bolt seize using this almost 10 years of 100% salt...our entire crew uses this exclusively

availible at any autoparts store




the ONLY loctite on skis in st. auggie are on the RRP steering systems

Don't forget your flywheel bolt. I don't know why people use anything besides Anti-sieze. When it comes to automotive and diesel, everything gets lubed and pretty much only flywheels and balancers get Loctite. I don't believe skis should be any different.
 

tomski

X
Location
LHC
I use loctite on everything. I just usually don't use it during mock up. It seems counter productive to put something on a clean thread I am going to remove on 5 minutes. I guess that's a mistake I wont make in the future.


I use this on stainless for mock up. And save the nyloc for the final assembly.

N35FZ.jpg
 
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