Custom/Hybrid First Freestyle port job

Exhaust Port 53mm width on 81mm bore (square port)2012-03-30_18-33-05_577.jpg
Cleaned the bottom transfer tunnels2012-03-30_18-31-43_90.jpg2012-03-30_18-32-00_250.jpg
Lowered the bottoms of transfer ports 2.8mm2012-03-30_18-33-16_25.jpg
Lowered boost port 5.3mm2012-03-30_18-33-44_531.jpg
Before I cleaned up the boost port2012-03-29_22-50-17_361.jpg
Opened up the exhaust port tunnel2012-03-30_18-29-16_714.jpg
Cut ridge off bottom intake side skirt2012-03-30_18-31-06_598.jpg

another pic of shortened skirt2012-03-30_18-31-32_540.jpg
Exhaust port pic2012-03-30_18-32-38_421.jpg
 
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MikeyB

H2O-Addict®
Location
Michigan
Its nice to see pictures of this kind of stuff, Ive been interested in learning more about porting for a while now. Looks good.
 
Location
Pa
just finished my first port/polish today on a 62T cyl, took me 4 beers, and 2 wtf this is annoying beer breaks. the trandfer ports SUCKED to do. i got racelogic superstock/fs templates, they are more of a trapazoid for the exh port as apposed to the oval yours look like
 
You need to match the casting to the intake Ports. Also I can't remember for sure but lowering the intake Ports will do nothing if the piston won't go down far enough to get out of the way.

Also shorten the sleeve at the bottom of the intake Ports 4mm or so and do not knife edge the intake port deviders. Round edges make less turbulence.
 
CIMG0250.jpgLike this?
You need to match the casting to the intake Ports. Also I can't remember for sure but lowering the intake Ports will do nothing if the piston won't go down far enough to get out of the way.

Also shorten the sleeve at the bottom of the intake Ports 4mm or so and do not knife edge the intake port deviders. Round edges make less turbulence.
 

TOBY

BNA
Location
NashVegas
pix

DONT knon if this pix will help but it ran great , if you take the sleevs out to port them it speeds the process up.
 

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This is my boat. These sleeves are big bore sleeves that come "ported" from blowsion. The bottom of the intake side of the sleeve has that hole notched into it and you can do that if you want but you can try it with and with out. Slide the cylinder on the cases and old pistons and watch as you rotate it you can see where you can improve air flow.

The stock sleeves have those gnarly chamfered edges around the intake ports (dark areas) and that is a good guide line where you can widen them a bit. You really just need a sanding drum to chamfer the edges after final boring not the stock over kill.

I prefer round edges similar to stock on the bottom of your sleeves but that works. Everywhere air flows over an edge just radius the corner a bit. Like the stock bottom of the sleeve has a kinda rounded edge. Of course match the divider to the height of the sleeve.

Taking out the sleeves will make things way easier as well. Put them in an oven for half an hour at 400* F and tip them upside down and they will prob fall out.

I never raise or lower ports. Pretty much just widen them, and go to the edges of the stock chamfers on the intake ports. But I like as much low end as possible. Also notice the top of my blowsion sleeve is wider than the bottom. Something else you can think about.

I have never taken the sleeves out on the motors I have done but will next time. You dont have to. I wouldnt since you started already. Of course this is all at your own risk jet skis are a hobby for me I just like to play mod and learn (not always in that order). If you just clean up the casting flaws and widen the exhaust port you will notice a good gain in power and throttle response. after that is up to you how many hours you want to tinker with it and take apart your motor.
 
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