FX-1 Best Freestyle hull mods for a FX1

swapmeet

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
I have a FX1 Hull that I plan on reinforcing/ modding this winter.
I'll only be riding flat water, and the desired result is a ski that increases my ability to do tricks etc. This is strictly recreational. I love what the XFS from Rickter can pull off, so i'm kind of using that as a 'guide' of sorts.

My thinking is that I can modify my hull for a couple hundred dollars worth of materials and 'build' a pretty slick ski on a budget vs. dropping a ton of cash on a bare aftermarket hull.

The list of mods i'm considering is as follows:

(All mods will be with biax glass and epoxy resin)
  • 144 pumpswap with shoe
  • Reinforce sides and bottom of engine compartment
  • Move pole mount forward and reinforce mount area
  • Shorten rear of ski ala' RRP XFS
  • Tubbies
  • Widen Tray with Holds and/or straps
  • Defoam, probably replace with ping pong balls
  • Possibly reshape rocker to shorten
I don't know if i'll do all of these things, but this is whats on the menu.

My plan is to stick a warmed over 701 in it, ~95hp. Hopefully that coupled with the big pump should yeild a decent ski on a budget.

Am I on the right track or wasting my time? Has anyone else performed any of these? I know Superjetbrett has a pretty wild ski with these mods. Not sure if he'll make it in here to comment.

I would beg, borrow, and steal to have a XFS, but I doubt it will ever happen. I just don't have the spare cash.

So what do you think?
 
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chadetroit

chadetroit

Get Wet
Location
Bay Area, CA
I've been looking for anyone who has shortened the hull, but have not found anything. Debated about taking 2-3" off the rear of my winter project, so hurry up and start yours so you can be the test monkey. The rocker reshaping is interesting as well. Sounds like an ambitious project, I say go for it!
 
tom21

tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
compared to the sj the fx already has a more abrupt rocker. problem is its very narrow, with tubbies that will resolve most of that issue.

what you really need is 2 skis. that way you wont lose any riding time. and if it all pans out great you have a cool ski but if it flops then you didnt just wreck your only ride.

I think sjbret shortened and rounded his hull and then built it almost back to stock??

If it was me I would shorten just the bottom on an angle maybe 2 at the bondline and 3-4 at the chine. save that piece incase you need to rebuild it. then make the rear bond line/ rail wider like 2.5 wide. I will be adding that to mine, I hope it will make the ski more stable.

I would sub pingpong for foam tubes.

tray and pole mods- anything goes.

.02$ - what its worth.

oh and you need a pipe and some compression.
 
tom21

tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
or just hold a banana up to a pic of the hull and trace the bottom out from that and get cutting. but be carefull cause it may only go backwards by way of backflips lol
 
swapmeet

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Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
tom21 said:
I think sjbret shortened and rounded his hull and then built it almost back to stock??
Click to expand...

Last time I looked at his thread it was still chopped and shortened. He got a lower hull with his XS1000, but didn't use it on the FX. I was confused about that as well.

tom21 said:
If it was me I would shorten just the bottom on an angle maybe 2 at the bondline and 3-4 at the chine. save that piece incase you need to rebuild it. then make the rear bond line/ rail wider like 2.5 wide. I will be adding that to mine, I hope it will make the ski more stable.
Click to expand...

When you say the bottom, do you mean the back around the pump? or literally shortening the sides of the ski?
When you widen the rear bond line, how deep will the widenend portion be? Will it taper all the way to the front? LOL I need drawrings...


oh and you need a pipe and some compression.
Click to expand...

I'm good there I think.
 
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superwetbrett

superwetbrett

Location
Central Florida
mine is shorten on the back like 2.5 i think.. don't really remember.. i would not do it at an angle like tom21 is saying.. i have rode a sn that had that and it made it ride very nose high.. might have to do with pole legnth and foothold position not sure but i wouldn't suggest trying it.. maybe wait to ride toms.. the only thing that sucks with mine is that it needs a bondline around the front to stop water splashing in your face..my footholds are moved forward at least 1" and the pole bracket is 4" forward.. tubbies would help on getting some more air out of the water which i wanted to do that and the wider bondline like tom21 is talking about but instead i think and just going to get a carbon superfreak and be done with it.. swap you want my fx?
 
tom21

tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
superjetbrett said:
mine is shorten on the back like 2.5 i think.. don't really remember.. i would not do it at an angle like tom21 is saying.. i have rode a sn that had that and it made it ride very nose high..
Click to expand...

I wouldnt do it to any of my skis either, but then I dont have a desire to do flatwater backfips. I thought that was the goal, flatwater tricks.
 
swapmeet

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
Ok, I made a drawing to try and help me understand what your saying LOL...

Are you talking about A or B?
Hullchop.jpg
 
tom21

tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
lol that would be the banana option.

on the rear of the hull where the exhaust outlet is, that portion is angle back. so the hull is longer at the bottom than it is at the bondline. in your pic the hull slopes toward the front of the ski. swing the bottom forward here- hull now /____ hull after \____ get it?
 
Flash-FX

Flash-FX

No Square..No Round..FX-1
Location
South Jersey Shore
Just remember, when dealing with surfaces that touch the water, a little bit goes a long way.

The 144mm pump install is a big project, and there is a lot of options for that setup (drive shaft length options, grates,ect). Keep a close eye on drive line alignment!

One of the biggest improvements (for handling) on my FX is the adjustable trim system (no levers or cables). It helps refine the nose ride height, in conjunction with the ride plate. I like to ride with a little longer ride plate,with the trim jacked up, this gives a immediate take off feel of a "D" cut plate, but allows you to ride fast also (best of both worlds).

If you have some good auto-body skills, things will work out fine. Start hacking!
 
swapmeet

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
I remember reading about the trim setup with the knob, but I couldn't find the thread. Is that what your talking about?

The hull i'm starting with already has the 144 conversion, it was owned by another member on here and was ridden etc. It has a 144 shoe.


If you have a link on that trim setup, I'd like to see it. I was thinking about going that route vs the cable/ lever setup.
 
swapmeet

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
Thanks! That wasn't the one I was thinking of, but its defintely helpful.

The one I saw they had the knobs on the lower left of the nozzles, and I remember them using black knobs... not that its important, just in case that stirs anyones memory.
 
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