Other Wonder if this paint will work?!?!?!

[JETSKIHORDER18]

The guy that paint my skis is on vacation for the rest of the week, and I found this paint online that I liked and I wasn't sure if it would work so I was wondering what you guys think, and if it is the right paint. I wanted to get it ordered, but couldn't ask the paint guy.

http://www.paintforcars.com/Merchan...oduct_Code=kits_sunshineyellow&Category_Code=

Let me know,
Jordan

 

[WFO Speedracer]

The guy that paint my skis is on vacation for the rest of the week, and I found this paint online that I liked and I wasn't sure if it would work so I was wondering what you guys think, and if it is the right paint. I wanted to get it ordered, but couldn't ask the paint guy.

http://www.paintforcars.com/Merchan...oduct_Code=kits_sunshineyellow&Category_Code=

Let me know,
Jordan

While acrylic enamel will work it is hard to eliminate the orange peel in it, professional painters can shoot it pretty well if they are used to shooting this type of paint. Acrylic urethane would be a much better choice.

 

[Waternut]

I used the single stage urethane paint on mcdog's wifes ski from that site successfully. I prefer the acrylic enamel from tcpglobal.com though. I have a nice air compressor but use a $15 gun from harborfreight. Air filter before the gun is critical regardless of the paint you use. I had no experience spraying in the past and did my SN perfectly. I then did my jeep, stunt hull, and pabloescobars ski with the same acrylic enamel. I'm currently painting my boat with similar paint. So far all the paints have held up very well including my SN that spent the last 12 months sitting outside in the GA sun being neglected. I quickly washed and waxed the SN and it's good as new again. My one warning is be careful with gasoline. You can get gas on the paint but you need to rinse it off and not wipe it off. If you wipe it off too many times, you'll start to dull the paint.

 

[JETSKIHORDER18]

Sounds good. I am actually not painting this, a guy that is painting my dads X2 is going to paint my ski.

 

[Waternut]

Well if you buy the paint, make sure you get the paint back from him so you can do touch ups as necessary.

 

[2010brandingo]

URETHANE!!! Much better paint,more user friendly, more chemical resistant.

 

[Tyler Zane]

I used the single stage urethane paint on mcdog's wifes ski from that site successfully. I prefer the acrylic enamel from tcpglobal.com though. I have a nice air compressor but use a $15 gun from harborfreight. Air filter before the gun is critical regardless of the paint you use. I had no experience spraying in the past and did my SN perfectly. I then did my jeep, stunt hull, and pabloescobars ski with the same acrylic enamel. I'm currently painting my boat with similar paint. So far all the paints have held up very well including my SN that spent the last 12 months sitting outside in the GA sun being neglected. I quickly washed and waxed the SN and it's good as new again. My one warning is be careful with gasoline. You can get gas on the paint but you need to rinse it off and not wipe it off. If you wipe it off too many times, you'll start to dull the paint.

you now give me the courage to paint my ski myself, when i would of never thought to try. next winter maybe, thats at the bottom of my list right now...

 

[Waternut]

Painting with an air gun and painting with spray paint is totally different. I usually get run city with spray paint but you can adjust the gun in like 2 seconds on some scrap wood or metal prior to painting your ski to get the gun spraying exactly how you want it with that paint. Do just a little research and you'll be golden. It's like doing the brakes on your car. All the mechanics will tell you it's safety related and you shouldn't touch it. Then you do it the first time and wonder what all the concern is about because it's a cake walk.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

The main advantage to urethane for a DIY person is if you do happen to get a run in it you can sand it out and buff it, if its a solid color. If its a metallic color regardless of paint type you are screwed big time.

 

[Tyler Zane]

i have a huge compressor that i can use and i have sprayed houses before so im pretty confident i could get the job done. a solid color would be my only choice any ways. thanks guys.

 

[Waternut]

The main advantage to urethane for a DIY person is if you do happen to get a run in it you can sand it out and buff it, if its a solid color. If its a metallic color regardless of paint type you are screwed big time.

Yeah I've always used metallic paints so wet sanding was always out of the question. I will admit that the final wet coat can get tricky if you've got complex corners because you don't want to hit the same area more than once or run the risk of it running.

 

[2010brandingo]

the other advantage to urethane as opposed to enamel is when you need to go back into it to do repairs and such, or your next paint job. you can do so without having to worry so much about the chemical reactions toward the old paint causing problems, "lifting" for example (the solvents from the new top coat eating into the old paint causing it to lift) witch can cause a real nightmare. urethane when used correctly is much more forgiving and easier to work with.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

the other advantage to urethane as opposed to enamel is when you need to go back into it to do repairs and such, or your next paint job. you can do so without having to worry so much about the chemical reactions toward the old paint causing problems, "lifting" for example (the solvents from the new top coat eating into the old paint causing it to lift) witch can cause a real nightmare. urethane when used correctly is much more forgiving and easier to work with.

All true, Acrylic urethane was originally designed for use on aircraft,it needed to be durable, have a tight bond to the substrate material, be cleanable,fuel resistant and slick, urethane is all that and a bag of chips.

 

[Waternut]

the other advantage to urethane as opposed to enamel is when you need to go back into it to do repairs and such, or your next paint job. you can do so without having to worry so much about the chemical reactions toward the old paint causing problems, "lifting" for example (the solvents from the new top coat eating into the old paint causing it to lift) witch can cause a real nightmare. urethane when used correctly is much more forgiving and easier to work with.

I know urethanes are the way of the future but I've never had any of these problems with the tcp global acrylic enamels. Just wanted to make a note of that. I actually did a big no no when doing my SN. I misinterpretted the instructions and was only putting one coat on a day and spraying the next coat 24 hours later. I didn't realize that after the 24 hours, you were supposed to scuff sand it prior to laying the next coat but that paint job is still in great shape.

 

[2010brandingo]

I know urethanes are the way of the future but I've never had any of these problems with the tcp global acrylic enamels. Just wanted to make a note of that. I actually did a big no no when doing my SN. I misinterpretted the instructions and was only putting one coat on a day and spraying the next coat 24 hours later. I didn't realize that after the 24 hours, you were supposed to scuff sand it prior to laying the next coat but that paint job is still in great shape.

i hear ya! lucky you! also when used correctly you should have no probs with the enamel, just alot more likely. the problems occur when you sand through in a spot or on an edge for example, leaving an exposed edge for the solvents to "crawl" under causing it to lift. or while painting if you wait to long between coats, the enamel will start to cure and when hit again with the next coat it can eat into the last coat causing it to lift also. same goes for candy paints, urethane or not. as far as the rescuff b4 recoat that is for adhesion purposes. what can happen in that case is say you get a scratch on the bottom, the force of the water hitting the ski, at high speeds for say, can cause the topcoat to sheet off and seperate from the other due to lack of adhesion. in this sense maybe you were lucky you used enemel cause the solvents could have eaten into the underlying surface just enough to promote decent adhesion.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

The thing with enamel is it takes about 30 days to air cure,so no sanding, buffing etc for 30 days the urethane is good to go 24 hrs later, sand it buff it do whatever you like.Some of the best high end paint jobs did not come out of the gun that way they were scuffed and buffed after spraying to eliminate any imperfections.Urethane is similar to lacquer in this aspect.

 

[2010brandingo]

The thing with enamel is it takes about 30 days to air cure,so no sanding, buffing etc for 30 days the urethane is good to go 24 hrs later, sand it buff it do whatever you like.Some of the best high end paint jobs did not come out of the gun that way they were scuffed and buffed after spraying to eliminate any imperfections.Urethane is similar to lacquer in this aspect.

very true! I HATE BUFFING! just sucks that im good at it otherwise id sub it out to someone else!lol me personaly, i like to give my paint at least 3 days before i buff it. 24 hours is ok, and works when you have a deadline, but the paint is still soft and its easier to burn or chunk it while buffing. manufactures recomend at least 72 hours for full cure, and when building show cars and such i like to wait almost 30 days if i can b4 wetsand/buff to allow the paint to finish "shrinking". this process can be sped up with a quick light scuff with some ultrafine grit (1500-2000 or so) to allow the paint to breathe better then stick it in the sun.

 

[2010brandingo]

i like this thread, love talkin paint. Hey WFO, you do alot of painting?

JETSKIHORDER18 my advice to you is to not make any moves in any direction until you talk with your painter. we all have products we like and dislike and that we are accustomed to using. you dont want to piss off the doctor before he takes your baby into the operating room!